Understanding climbing grades

Hey there, 

Thanks for checking out my post. I’m currently looking at the prerequisites for the AMGA rock guide course, and am seeing an emphasis of having completed 10 grade III climbs. I understand this to mean “most of the day roped climbing”. But my question is, isn’t that subjective to the individual?
I’m I might spend the same amount of time on a 7 pitch 5.10 as I do on a 12 pitch 5.6. What determines the grade of the climb?

http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades

"National Climbing Classification System (USA):

NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team.

I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of the route.
III:Most of a day of roped climbing.
IV: A full day of technical climbing.
V: Typically requires an overnight on the route, or done fast and free in a day.
VI: Two or more days of hard climbing.
VII: Remote walls climbed in alpine style."

Well know climbs will generally have those descriptors already assigned based on previous experiences, similar to 5.6 vs 5.10.

Chris Belian wrote:

I’m I might spend the same amount of time on a 7 pitch 5.10 as I do on a 12 pitch 5.6. What determines the grade of the climb?

Your example is kinda right.  An "average" party for around a day of climbing.  You might ask the AMGA for a better definition and some example climbs.

For the amga stuff, use the established grade given to specific routes. That’s what they will look at. Look in the guide book. 

When I took that course many years ago I just used the grade listed in the guidebook but a good rule of thumb is that the Roman numeral grade is a combination of the approach, length of the route itself (number of pitches) and the difficulty.  I'll mostly reference routes I have done so this is mostly centered on climbing in Colorado, red rocks, and California.  In Colorado most routes in Eldorado like the yellow spur (5.9 or 10a depending and 4 pitches) or rewritten (5.8 5 pitches) would be grade II.  the hike is only about 30-40 min and the descent is pretty short.  Most rock routes in rocky mtn national park are grade III like the petit grepon (5.8 8 pitches but a 6 mile approach and 6-7 rappels) routes on Hallets like cult bossier, and love route (both about 8 pitches and 5.9 with a 3-4 mile approach and 3rd class descent with 2 raps). A route like the casual route on the diamond would be grade V.  It has a long approach and 600 ft of low 5th class just to get to the route and then a 7 pitch 10a followed by 8-10 rappels. I would call a lot of the routes I've done in red rocks to be grade III as well including crimson chrysalis (8+ 9 pitches), frog land (5.8 6-7 pitches), ginger cracks (5.9 6-7 pitches), and black orpheus (10a 8-9 pitches). I've heard people say that a route like epinephrine is both grade IV or V.  It only has a couple pitches of 5.9 and can be done in about 12 pitches if you link.  In Yosemite a route like royal arches is 14-15 pitches if you pitch the whole thing out but its only 5.7 so its a grade III while a route like the east buttress of middle cathedral (5.9 9 pitches if you link) or the Northeast buttress of higher cathedral (5.9 9 pitches and very physical)  are both grade IV.  When the difficulty goes up the numeral goes up even if the route isn't super long.  Prodigal son, space shot, and moonlight buttress in Zion are all about 10 pitches with a short approach but since they are all aid or really hard free climbs they are solid grade V.  Same with the leaning tower or south face of Washington column in Yosemite. The Roman numerals have always been a bit arbitrary.  I would assume on the 1st rock guide course you should expect to climb 6-10 pitches per day with moderately long approaches and semi technical to technical descents rated up to about 10b/c.  I think its important to point out that you'll be likely be leading sustained routes with a light pack on trailing a second rope as well. If you feel comfortable at those grades you'll  be fine.  I will say that the 2 AMGA rock courses I took were amazing learning experiences that definitely made me a more efficient and safer climber and you climb a lot.  I think we did about 50 pitches during my advanced rock course in red rocks. have fun

The criteria means you have climbed multi pitch routes rated at grade III. i.e. have the knowledge and have more comprehensive skills beyond single pitch cragging. 10 climbs of grade III also implies having some skills of being able to take care of yourself staying hydrated, fed and comfortable in potentially inclement conditions, i.e. hanging it out there a bit, not just be at a crag where you can go jump in your car.