Mountain Project Logo

Tenaya Masai for Vertical Edging?

Original Post
Braydon Smedley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Anybody who has climbing in the masai and what they thought about it as an edging shoe for vertical sport and Trad? Mostly climb in vertical limestone in Logan Utah but I also spend some time on sandstone and Granite. What are the strengths and weaknesses of the shoe?

Tree Soloist · · Mammoth Lakes / Joshua Tree · Joined May 2018 · Points: 15

I wore a pair for a season in Joshua Tree because I'd heard Tenayas were great for narrow feet and I found a good-as-new pair for $40. My comparisons are based on previously wearing La Sportiva women's laced Muiras, women's Solutions, and women's Skwamas (and now trying to wear Five Ten Pinks). Sizing is very similar to La Sportiva, maybe a hair smaller. I got 6.5 and I wear 38.5-39 in La Sportiva. They're too tight for multipitch so I'm considering getting 7s.

I used the Masais on tons of slab in Joshua Tree, which involves a lot of smedging on little grains and micro-flakes. They're stiffer than the laced Miuras and, for me, worked really well on these slabs (EBGBs, Houser Buttress 5.11s). Definitely had to recalibrate as I could now edge on things smaller than before. On the other hand, a friend told me he finds the Masais too flexible. However he's ~40 lbs heavier than me; also, a longer shoe in the same thickness will inherently flex more than a shorter one.

Strengths:

  • Good for edging and can smear when needed (from a smallish person's perspective)
  • Adapts well to narrow feet
  • Not too downturned
  • Doesn't stretch much
  • Great durability
  • Get compliments on mustard-colored shoes with one red and one black shoelace

Weaknesses:

  • May not edge well in larger sizes / if you're heavier
  • Heel is pointy and narrow
  • Lacing takes a long time
  • Becomes smellier than other shoes

Hope this helps. (If you want stiffer than that, try the Pinks... I can't smear in them for the life of me)

Braydon Smedley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Tree Soloist wrote:

 On the other hand, a friend told me he finds the Masais too flexible. However he's ~40 lbs heavier than me; also, a longer shoe in the same thickness will inherently flex more than a shorter one.

Hope this helps. (If you want stiffer than that, try the Pinks... I can't smear in them for the life of me)

Thanks so much for the response, this answers a lot of my questions, at 6 foot and 170 lbs I think ill probably try on a pair of the pinks like you suggested. I need something for granite that I can edge with and smear at the same time. It sounds like I am a decent amount bigger then you so the pinks might be the best fit.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Reviews
Post a Reply to "Tenaya Masai for Vertical Edging?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.