Best crampons?
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I'm looking to purchase some crampons but not sure if there is a happy medium for some mountaineering and Ice climbing? Any recommendations or info would be greatly appreciated |
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Something modular. Lynx, Blade Runners. |
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Petzl Sarkens are best of both worlds. |
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Mark NH wrote: A mono point sarken would be the most bomb, maybe even a replaceable point sarken like the lynx, like what cassin has done with their multiple types of replacable points |
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The features that I would look for in a mountaineering crampon are: - recessed secondary front points and downward facing tertiary points - flexible center bar - antibot plates - toe basket and heel bail attachment system (aka hybrid binding) For ice climbing, you will probably want something that has replaceable vertical front-points (that can be set up as a mono point). Petzl Lynx crampons (with a flexible center bar purchased separately) would have all of those features. |
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If you are on a budget, a used pair of Petzl Sarkens will keep you happy long until you know exactly what you really want. |
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Mark NH wrote: I don't know if I would say "best" of both worlds, but I also have a pair of Sarkens that have treated me well. They're a kind of "jack of all trades" crampon. Not the lightest thing out there for pure glacier travel, but I find them very comfy to walk in, and walked up Rainier and many times up Mt. Washington in them. For ice climbing they're not the typical modern style you see these days, but I used them for my first 2.5 seasons ice climbing before I went mono-point, and I was perfectly comfortable leading WI 4/4+ in them. I don't think you'd be disappointed if you got them, but if you end up doing either sport at a committing level, you'll probably grow out of them in 2-4 years. |
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Petzl Sarkens or Lynx, they are both really good but my vote is edging toward the Lynx. Truth is if you end up doing both (mountaineering and ice climbing) I would go for a pair of Vazak (light and more than enough for 80% of mountaineering outings) and a pair of Dart for ice (lighter than Lynx) |
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Petzl lynx or bd cyborg set up as duals will be fine for both winter mounterinng and steep ice. Summer mountaineering you will want aluminum rigs with basket bindings. |
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Just get a set of G-12s and call it good. |
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Sean M wrote: ...I think I like your “jack of all trades” comment better. |
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I've been hammering on a pair of Cassin Alpinist Pros for the past two seasons. Super solid and stiff crampons. Very reliable and I have beat the hell out of them. Also the Cassin Blade Runner are super legit. |