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Best crampons?

Original Post
Jeremy Langdo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 20

I'm looking to purchase some crampons but not sure if there is a happy medium for some mountaineering and Ice climbing? Any recommendations or info would be greatly appreciated

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Something modular. Lynx, Blade Runners. 

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Petzl Sarkens are best of both worlds. 

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1
Mark NH wrote:

Petzl Sarkens are best of both worlds. 

A mono point sarken would be the most bomb, maybe even a replaceable point sarken like the lynx, like what cassin has done with their multiple types of replacable points 

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

The features that I would look for in a mountaineering crampon are:

- recessed secondary front points and downward facing tertiary points

- flexible center bar

- antibot plates

- toe basket and heel bail attachment system (aka hybrid binding)

For ice climbing, you will probably want something that has replaceable vertical front-points (that can be set up as a mono point). 

Petzl Lynx crampons (with a flexible center bar purchased separately) would have all of those features.

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

If you are on a budget, a used pair of Petzl Sarkens will keep you happy long until you know exactly what you really want. 

Sean M · · Victor, MT · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 43
Mark NH wrote:

Petzl Sarkens are best of both worlds. 

I don't know if I would say "best" of both worlds, but I also have a pair of Sarkens that have treated me well. They're a kind of "jack of all trades" crampon. Not the lightest thing out there for pure glacier travel, but I find them very comfy to walk in, and walked up Rainier and many times up Mt. Washington in them. For ice climbing they're not the typical modern style you see these days, but I used them for my first 2.5 seasons ice climbing before I went mono-point, and I was perfectly comfortable leading WI 4/4+ in them. I don't think you'd be disappointed if you got them, but if you end up doing either sport at a committing level, you'll probably grow out of them in 2-4 years. 

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Petzl Sarkens or Lynx, they are both really good but my vote is edging toward the Lynx.

Truth is if you end up doing both (mountaineering and ice climbing) I would go for a pair of Vazak (light and more than enough for 80% of mountaineering outings) and a pair of Dart for ice (lighter than Lynx)

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Petzl lynx or bd cyborg  set up as  duals  will be fine for both winter mounterinng and steep  ice.  Summer mountaineering you will want aluminum rigs with  basket bindings. 

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Just get a set of G-12s and call it good. 

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
Sean M wrote:

I don't know if I would say "best" of both worlds, but I also have a pair of Sarkens that have treated me well. They're a kind of "jack of all trades" crampon. Not the lightest thing out there for pure glacier travel, but I find them very comfy to walk in, and walked up Rainier and many times up Mt. Washington in them. For ice climbing they're not the typical modern style you see these days, but I used them for my first 2.5 seasons ice climbing before I went mono-point, and I was perfectly comfortable leading WI 4/4+ in them. I don't think you'd be disappointed if you got them, but if you end up doing either sport at a committing level, you'll probably grow out of them in 2-4 years. 

...I think I like your “jack of all trades” comment better. 

Levi Blair · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

I've been hammering on a pair of Cassin Alpinist Pros for the past two seasons. Super solid and stiff crampons. Very reliable and I have beat the hell out of them. Also the Cassin Blade Runner are super legit. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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