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Harness recommendation for Alpine

Original Post
RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460

I need a harness rec for Alpine.  

I'm thinking light, compressible, able to hold an alpine or single rack, mostly non-hanging belays, multi-pitch, hike-in overnight with/one day climbing routes.

I have a petzl Altitude; a glacier harness I like to use for 4-5 low and it's great, but wont really carry much well - it sags with the weight of a rack.  Is there a standard go-to alpine harness? Can you help me?

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85

BD Technician is pretty good.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

DMM Super Couloir is my favorite.  Light, but not so stripped down that it's missing useful features like racking loops etc.  

Adjustable enough that it works with various amounts of clothing.   

https://dmmwales.com/climbing-products/harnesses/super-couloir

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I like my CAMP Alpine Flash. Many good harnesses out there. 

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 341

Big fan of my Camp Alpine Flash.  So much so that it has become my every day harness.  

Light and compact, but has 5 gear loops, adjustable leg loops, and is plenty comfortable.  Holds the weight of a rack just fine.  

https://weighmyrack.com/harness/camp-alpine-flash

bearded sam · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

Big fan of this. I tried the camp suggested above and it was way to uncomfortable blueice.com/us/en/harnesses…

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

Has anybody here owned the CAMP Alpine Flash and the Petzl Sitta? I’ve got the Sitta and am not particularly happy with it. 

C J · · Sac Valley, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Kai Larson wrote:

DMM Super Couloir is my favorite.  Light, but not so stripped down that it's missing useful features like racking loops etc.  

Adjustable enough that it works with various amounts of clothing.   

https://dmmwales.com/climbing-products/harnesses/super-couloir

+1

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460

I would think adjustable leg loops (differing clothing layers) and  ability to be put on without putting legs through loops would be an advantage.

like this:

Will Anderson · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

Arcteryx alpha fl-365 is awesome. Pretty lightweight, very comfortable for long days with lots of gear. Has 5 gear loops and ice clipper spots

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460
Chris C wrote:

Has anybody here owned the CAMP Alpine Flash and the Petzl Sitta? I’ve got the Sitta and am not particularly happy with it. 

The Sitta *looks* great and pricy. What do you find lacking about it?

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
RJNakata wrote:

The Sitta *looks* great and pricy. What do you find lacking about it?

I found it uncomfortable, the rear gear loops were almost unusable, needed to buy an expensive and too big screw clipper if you want more than two clippers, and was the least durable harness I've ever owned. It's light and many love the Sitta but I didn't.

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
RJNakata wrote:

The Sitta *looks* great and pricy. What do you find lacking about it?

Durability feels lacking, and not in ways that I anticipate from ultralight products.  For example, the ice clipper loops feel like they are going to split apart with certain clippers (there are photos of that on MP happening), I actually don't trust them enough to use them.  The rear gear loops are functionally useless if you are wearing a backpack, and the front loops have a built in organizer that is more annoying than anything else.  

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

Mammut zephir altitude 

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 222

Has anyone used the Beal Ghost? Lighter than the Sitta, more functional gear loops, and looks more durable. 

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

+1 on the CAMP Alpine Flash. So comfortable, that it's also my gym harness. 

DeLa Cruce · · SWEDEN · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

Blue Ice Choucas Pro

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

From friends I heard good things about the Blue Ice Choucas Pro as well as the BD Technician. I m sure both would serve you well. 

On my side, for alpine and ice climbing I use the Cilao OZ 37 PRO, it is an awesome harness and I love it but I m pretty sure it is impossible to buy in the US :(  

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,113
Koy wrote:

BD Technician is pretty good.

Good not great. I've used this harness for about a year and half. Some friends who have it have had some durability issues; I haven't. Only 4 gear loops and they're smaller than average, bad news for a seamstress like myself. I've found it pretty uncomfortable for sitting it for a long time, either a hanging belay or route development or what have you.

On the plus side, it's very light and compact and has four ice clipper slots, though they sit further back than I'd prefer.

DeLa Cruce · · SWEDEN · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Fabien M wrote:

From friends I heard good things about the Blue Ice Choucas Pro as well as the BD Technician. I m sure both would serve you well. 

On my side, for alpine and ice climbing I use the Cilao OZ 37 PRO, it is an awesome harness and I love it but I m pretty sure it is impossible to buy in the US :(  

ahh, cilao...like all the dudes on tvmountain! I wonder if their packs are any good...certainly spendy...

Bug Boy · · Boulder, CO :( · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

Anyone tried the BD vision harness? Looks pretty sweet 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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