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Frankenshoe!

Original Post
X C · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 72

I stumbled upon this picture of Ondra on Silence and immediately noticed that his right shoe, a Solution, is sporting the "S-Heel" design found on the Skwama/Otaki/Kataki (here are a couple of other pictures I found for confirmation. I love climbing shoes...) Not the first time that Sportiva has pimped out an existing model for Ondra; the Miura XX (Miura with P3 and heel mods) was what he wore on La Dura Dura and Change (per interview) well before that shoe was made available to the public.

This got me thinking about fantasy shoes... 

I love the Solutions for everything, and I am super happy that the Comp has come out and broadened the line. My fantasy shoe would be a third model in the Solution line, the Solution Edge. Basically, the regular solution but with 4mm XS Edge rubber and a full length midsole. I love the way the Solution fits on my foot, the location of the edging platform (how the shoe aligns with my big toe), and the comfort to performance ratio for my foot. If there were a third Solution more focused on small hold climbing on less steep terrain, I'd be way psyched!

What about you? What is your ultimate frankenshoe?

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
X C wrote:

I stumbled upon this picture of Ondra on Silence and immediately noticed that his right shoe, a Solution, is sporting the "S-Heel" design found on the Skwama/Otaki/Kataki (here are a couple of other pictures I found for confirmation. I love climbing shoes...) Not the first time that Sportiva has pimped out an existing model for Ondra; the Miura XX (Miura with P3 and heel mods) was what he wore on La Dura Dura and Change (per interview) well before that shoe was made available to the public.

This got me thinking about fantasy shoes... 

I love the Solutions for everything, and I am super happy that the Comp has come out and broadened the line. My fantasy shoe would be a third model in the Solution line, the Solution Edge. Basically, the regular solution but with 4mm XS Edge rubber and a full length midsole. I love the way the Solution fits on my foot, the location of the edging platform (how the shoe aligns with my big toe), and the comfort to performance ratio for my foot. If there were a third Solution more focused on small hold climbing on less steep terrain, I'd be way psyched!

What about you? What is your ultimate frankenshoe?

You can probably ask a resoler to do this. And it looks like they already make it. I believe it is the OTAKI. Same last as the Solution, same volume, xs edge, less downturned. Last chart

Nathan E · · Innsbruck · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 105

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

If I'm a shoe manufacturer & Ondra asks me to make something different for him I'm going to do it!

Jake S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 2

. Last chart

Do any other companies put out charts like this? Or for any other products like mountaineering boots?

Alek Fredriksson · · Columbia, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 969

Mine would be the Unparallel Regulus LV with the Sirius LV heel (like a TN Pro but low volume and a bit softer).

Cameron Preston · · St. George, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 181

I want me some approach crocs for sure 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
X C wrote:

I stumbled upon this picture of Ondra on Silence and immediately noticed that his right shoe, a Solution, is sporting the "S-Heel" design found on the Skwama/Otaki/Kataki (here are a couple of other pictures I found for confirmation. 

It's just a prototype solution comp. 

X C · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 72

@john clark. The toebox shape on the otaki feels nothing like the solution. I've thought about having a resoler take a whack at doing it, but putting in a full length midsole seems like the hard part. 

@nathan e. I approve.

@alek. Thanks for being the one guy that actually played the game!

@some guy called bleh. It must be nice knowing everything. Do you get headaches from it?

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 964

Miuras VS with skwama toe rubber and heel. 

ShuShu Y · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Alek Fredriksson wrote:

Mine would be the Unparallel Regulus LV with the Sirius LV heel (like a TN Pro but low volume and a bit softer).

Unparallel has the new Flagship (actual name of the shoe) coming out in spring 21 that suppose to replace the TN Pro, not sure what they've changed but Tamoa San has been testing it and seemed pretty excited about the new shoe.

Also have the Lyra coming out around the same spring 21 that replaces the current Vega.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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