Doug Scott, RIP

I only met him twice, but his book on wall climbing was pivotal in my climbing career.

A Scottish doctor that I guided numerous times just sent me a text about Doug and Hamish.

My favorite partner just had open heart surgery, so I am again reminded of the precious nature of time.

Doug Scott was a multi-facetted writer and climbing pioneer.

Doug was a major player in the alpine/expedition game in the 60's and early 70's, along with Boardman, Tasker, Bonnington and many other Brits..  His book "Big Wall Climbing" was a significant contribution to the history of wall climbing and technique when published in 1974.  His accident and descent on the Ogre is legendary.

RIP Doug and thanks for your contributions to the sport.  Condolences to family and friends.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/doug-scott-leading-alpinist-and-survivor-of-highest-open-bivy-on-everest-dies-at-79/

https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/29/a-crawl-down-the-ogre/

Sad news...I went to a lecture he gave in India... he asked us why we were lurking around... love that word “lurking”

RIP

Total legend.  RIP.  I grew up reading his "Big Wall Climbing", which helped launched my aspirations to do the Captain, etc.  Those old enough will remember the slew of Chris Bonington books that he churned out during the 70s and 80s and Doug Scott featured prominently in many of them.  Here he is crawling down the Ogre, in the full of it:

I attended a slideshow Doug gave at the MSU student union in Bozeman in the late 90s.  A very humble man with so many captivating tales to tell.  Sorry to see him gone.

Met and camped with Doug and Sharu his wife at the time and several of his friends in Patagonia in the early 90’s. Years later Doug came to town to give a slide show and we were supposed to go climbing for the day. Picked him up at the airport but it was pouring rain so we couldn’t go do a route outside together so we went to the climbing gym.
Doug was climbing g up the wall using any hold he wanted when some kid, who had no idea who DOUG SCOTT was, yells out “you’re only supposed to use the yellow taped holds” Doug just looks down at him and says “if you don’t use the holds you’ll never get up anything kid.”
I’m deeply saddened Doug is gone. He was a force.

Doug gave a talk in Maryland after he and Dougal climbed the big E.  Then I was fortunate to meet him on a trail outside of Boulder

and saw another show of his at Neptune's.  Quite the personality.  RIP, Doug.

Norm Larson wrote:

Met and camped with Doug and Sharu his wife at the time and several of his friends in Patagonia in the early 90’s. Years later Doug came to town to give a slide show and we were supposed to go climbing for the day. Picked him up at the airport but it was pouring rain so we couldn’t go do a route outside together so we went to the climbing gym.
Doug was climbing g up the wall using any hold he wanted when some kid, who had no idea who DOUG SCOTT was, yells out “you’re only supposed to use the yellow taped holds” Doug just looks down at him and says “if you don’t use the holds you’ll never get up anything kid.”
I’m deeply saddened Doug is gone. He was a force.

a friend of mine (another legendary old goat) was with him in a slc gym when some kid tried to school him on belay skills, kid got schooled in the end.

Tough guy, respect!

I also grew up reading bigwall climbing and dreaming 

I have an extra hard cover copy of "Big Wall Climbing"  if anyone wants it.  $25.00 and I'll pay postage in the lower 48. Pretty good condition, but not collectors grade.

Book claimed.

Sad to find out about Doug. Unfortunately I never was able to meet him. He was a big part of my climbing- all the stories filled my imagination and ignited my own desires for adventure. When I finally found my own adventure, the photo posted of Doug, on his knees in the snow gave, me the strength to carry on.
I offer my sincere condolences to Doug’s Family and many Friends. 

RIP 

Sad that a climbing forum about the passing of Doug only garnered 10 now 11 posts. We stand on many shoulders as climbers.

“I’ve broken me bloody legs!!!”
   -Doug Scott, July 13, 1977, just below the summit of The Ogre, after making the first ascent, with Chris Bonington. The Ogre would not see another ascent for 23 years. I cannot do this man, or his epic descent, justice here. Read about it!

I’m sorry to hear this. I met him on the Tumlingtar airstrip (a goat pasture) in Nepal in 1980 when I was 16. He had just “not summited” Makalu as we were about to begin our trekking adventure. He graciously signed my journal and spent a little time in conversation. A really nice man. 

A cold, damp, late winter day at Carderock, Potomac, in the early 80's. I bicycled, there were no cars in the parkinglot. 15m high shist cliffs on the river, gray, empty of humans, even the woodpeckers were still.  Sessioning the wires, 3rd class, up to 5.12-, zone 3. Doug appeared, recognized instantaneously from Mountain Magazine, Shivling, SW Sagamartha. He sent, strolled, onsight, ropeless, like he was at Stanage, Curbar, Millstone, smooth, calm, strong, fearless beast. We racked up the vertical meters, I tried to keep it safe, going 1st, chalking the grips.We didn't have a cord. He did not need the help. (impossible block, elsie's, green bucket! et al, etc) He said he had to go, prepare for a slide show at the Smithsonian. He invited me, said I wouldn't have to pay, he'd put me on the list, and left. I wrapped it up, then bicycled the 12 miles down river to the museum. He was greeting people at the door accompanied by our PATC officials. I remember the show was Shisapagma and Lobsang Spire. The photos blew my mind, especially the rock; but I was tired and fell asleep to the snow and ice of Shisha. They woke me up, I slept in the hedgerow out front, w my bike and parka. Thanks Doug !                 

Thanks Gee Dubble!