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Portable hangboard
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I’m good on the usual recommendations (tension, etc) as the holds are too small without a pulley (for me) or too narrow. Anyone come across a portable one (doesn’t have to be name brand; could be off Etsy) that has edges from 40/35mm down to 15mm?
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I have these https://ucraftclimbing.com/us/evo-rings-3d.html.. I like them, and the wood is really comfortable on the fingers. Major downside is that they're expensive. |
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Simple, cheap enough, edges only, and not exactly the numbers you stated but nearly splitting the difference. Worth a look 18mm edge |
joe trabucco wrote: Could you go into more detail on what you don't like about the Tension Flash (assuming that's what you're talking about)? Not much point recommending you something if it has the same problems. The Flash cord system can be adjusted to make the edges incut, which can make the small edges far easier than a flatter 15mm edge. So your objection that the holds are too small doesn't make much sense when you're asking for a board with 15mm edges. That's not to say the Flash is the board for you. Just trying to understand what you're looking for a bit better. How/where are you going to use this board? What are you trying to do with it (increase strength, increase endurance, warm up for climbing)? |
James D wrote: It's worth noting that the 13mm and 18mm edges are slightly incut. This has upsides and downsides. The upside is that it makes your training less condition dependent (flat or sloping edges are more friction-dependent, meaning that temperature/humidity can affect how difficult the hold is)--I think this is especially important for a portable hangboard, since there's always going to be some motion which makes friction a bigger factor. The downside is that it can make the holds more uncomfortable and unrealistic for open-hand drags--when it's over-flexing the DIP joints, and I wouldn't usually open-hand drag a hold shaped like this in actual climbing. It also means the holds are a bit easier than other holds of a similar size, which can be an upside or a downside depending on how strong you are and what you're trying to do. Overall I think the better approach is to use flatter, deeper holds, and add weight, since the depth makes the holds less condition-dependent, the flatness is still good for open-hand drag, and the weight keeps it from being too easy. You'll need a way to increase stimulation as you get stronger anyway: the options are increasing hold difficulty, increasing time, or increasing weight. Increasing hold difficulty isn't really a good option for a portable hangboard since NONE of these hangboards have enough holds for incremental progression. Increasing time can be a good option if your goal is to increase endurance, but isn't really good for increasing strength. Weight is the best option for strength, and keeps your endurance workouts aligned with your strength level while also preventing them from becoming unreasonably time-consuming. But Mr. Homeslice doesn't want to us a pulley, so I imagine he won't want to add weight either. |
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Definitely the lightest and most portable hangboard (hang rings I guess) are the Tindeq V-rings: https://tindeq.com/product/v-rings/ The edges are quite small however they're great for hanging weights off of which could be better control to rehab your finger (I actually got them to keep the fingers strong while recovering from a shoulder injury). |
David K wrote: Great advice. Thanks for this. It’s just a travel board that I can do dead hangs on when I can’t access a regular board with a pulley system. Given that it’s a travel board, I wouldn’t have a pulley system so that’s why I was looking for something that offered bigger edges (25-40mm), which are sizes that I don’t need pulley assistance on at this time. I also wanted smaller options for when I’m stronger at a later time. I mainly train power endurance year around consistently and don’t have “cycles.” I view hangboarding like weightlifting - it should be a year round activity. |
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Just got a Tension Flash and having a bit of buyer's remorse... I was looking to hang from pullup bar It seems considerably more fiddly than I had thought it would be and agree the edges are pretty thin, especially considering wobble/"yaw control" (Simpsons reference) |
Josh Rappoport wrote: i used to have digit's version and i sold it. Too fiddly, tilty, etc-y, etc-y. I can't imagine tension's is much different. Sorry to hear that. |
Josh Rappoport wrote: I’m generally inclined to agree here and I was warned that it’s not a great ‘at-home’ training device vs a ‘crag warm-up tool’. I still decided to give it a go while traveling the last few months and found I was able to get it stable when mounting across two pull up bars (see pic). Again, I definitely wouldn’t call this the best set up and would have much preferred mounting even a single campus rung above the doorway but this was the best I could get away with.  |
joe trabucco wrote: A progression plan which might increase your board options would be to get a set of resistance bands to remove weight. You can put the resistance band under your feet and try to get your feet up as high as possible (the higher your feet go, the less the band is assisting you). The downside here is that it doesn't give you quite as good of measurements of your progress as a pulley system, and it doesn't keep you honest like a pulley system does (it can be hard to give maximal effort when it's so much easier to just press down a little more on the resistance band). But the upside is it's obviously much lighter and more packable than a pulley system w/ weights. Depending on your workout, you can usually bring just one or two bands if you know which ones correspond to your current fitness level. |
