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Training plan: PCC or Lattice/Coach or no Coach

Original Post
Kole H · · Denver · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Hello, I am have been climbing for two years and can redpoint v7/11d. I am looking into getting a training plan to start in 2021. I have been using a lattice lite plan for the past 2 months and was happy but not overjoyed with my progress. I think two problems are that I thought I would want to focus more on sport climbing when I have actually fallen more into bouldering and that I thought I would have access to more training avenues than I thought (don't have a consistent gym belay partner). Anyway, I was wondering if I should try and stick with lattice just with more of a bouldering focus or if I should try a proven plan from Power Climbing Company. In addition to this, both plans offer options for having a coach vs. not having a coach. As far as motivation goes, I am a fairly motivated person given a program, and complete about 85% of my plan each week (some things I must replace). Would the addition of a coach be worth the money/ (I could get 9 months of plans w/o coach compared to 3 months with).

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984

You’d probably make faster progress if you just joined the Spot or DBC and hung with the guys and girls climbing V10

randy baum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,251

I think hiring a coach depends on one's personality, interests and availability.  Are you a self-learner?  Do you like to serve as a guinea pig?  Do you have an interest in sports science?  Do you have time to read up on training protocols from the likes of Steve Bechtel or Tyler Nelson?  Do you have time to listen to podcasts like the Nugget, Training Beta or Power Company?  Do you have friends who are more experienced and can serve as a mentor?  If you answer no to most of these, then get a coach.

Btw, regardless what you choose, listen to the others who have said that you, being a V7/11+ climber, probably just need to climb more.  If indoors, do more board climbing and less World Cup style boulders.  If outdoors, just get in lots of volume.  In general, work your weaknesses and make sure your climbing mirrors your goals.  Want to send routes in the RRG?  Climb longer routes and boulders.  Get in lots of mileage.  Want to crush in Hueco?  Climb power, fingery boulders and give yourself long rests between attempts.  Specificity is key.  Oh, and always try hard! :)

Forrest Hall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

One thing a coach will help you do is see your blind spots. If you aren't deeply searching for your weaknesses, you may never find the one thing that can level up your climbing. You don't want to spend 9 months working on strength, when you should be working on technique. If you're a self-learner and regularly seeking feedback from friends and other climbers, you might be fine, but I still struggle to figure out what to work on with loads of reading. 

Here's some info on how to build a climbing training program if you want to do it yourself. 

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Forrest Hall wrote:

One thing a coach will help you do is see your blind spots. 

Yes.   If you haven't had a coach, get one and see what he/she says are your weaknesses.

At your level and experience, it is still true that technique trumps strength in many situations, and a coach can see where your technique is weak and improve it.

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Kole H wrote:

Hello, I am have been climbing for two years and can redpoint v7/11d.

Your technique is subpar if the difference between boulders and routes is that high.  V7=5.13 range.  Get a coach to teach technique (or classes at a gym) and don't worry about a "training" plan.

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Seriously Moderate Climber wrote:

Your technique is subpar if the difference between boulders and routes is that high.  V7=5.13 range.  Get a coach to teach technique (or classes at a gym) and don't worry about a "training" plan.

Or they don’t climb on ropes often, as his post suggests....there could be a handful of reasons for that difference. I would think, if anything, the technique is most likely poor due to only climbing 2 years 

Lukasz Strzalkowski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
John Byrnes wrote:

Yes.   If you haven't had a coach, get one and see what he/she says are your weaknesses.

At your level and experience, it is still true that technique trumps strength in many situations, and a coach can see where your technique is weak and improve it.

Yes, check your weaknesses. There tools for that like Lattice remote assessment or https://test4climbing.com self-assessment. The second one is a kind of analytic tool that shows your results in front of other climbers. So you can check what is trained and what needs training.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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