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TC Pros for sport/gym? Need shoes for narrow feet
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TL;DR: need recommendations / advice for moderate climbing shoes (women's) for a long (41 - 41.5 street), narrow feet with smaller volume AND: La Sportiva TC Pro for gym sport climbing? Happy TG! I'm looking to upgrade my climbing shoes and having issues finding a good fit. Current shoes are the Evolve Royale ( weighmyrack.com/Shoe/Evolv-… - flat, beginner shoes. I don't trust my feet in them and slip all the time on anything overhanging, so it's time for something better. What I will use them for: I'm currently climbing 5:11 inside and of course aiming higher. Right now I only climb inside and top rope - I don't boulder. I don't see myself bouldering a lot, it's just not for me since I took a bad fall when I tried it out so I am scared of injuring myself. I have never climbed outside :( but in spring I want to start - I live in CO so lots of options and hoping to climb biweekly at or more outside next year. But, right now most of my climbing will be in the gym (3x week). I prefer the longer, crimpy and technical climbs that are more vertical than overhung. I'm a more static climber than dynamic and I'm relatively light: about 120, 5'7. What I would like: I prefer lace since my foot is narrow. I climb more vertical than overhung and at 5:11 so I think moderate aggression is good. Under $200 (ideally less!! But it's really important to me to get a pair that fits well. Climbing is the one thing in my life that I am enjoying right so F it if I have to spend more than I would prefer) What I've tried: I took a long trip to the La Sportiva factory store and tried on a lot of pairs. I really wanted the Katanas - I loved how they fit my heal and arch and I think the aggression level is perfect, BUT they were too roomy in the toe box. Even sized down to 40 or 39.5 I could move my toes quite a lot. My big toe was curled down but I could close my toes like a fist. I also tried the Miura which I originally went for, but they did not fit my feet well. I also tried others that the guy brought out but they just didn't work. I ended up trying and really liking the TC Pros. They fit my toes really well and were the only shoe to feel like a glove. I think I will get hot spots from the high heal but nothing a band-aid won't fix. My concern is that these shoes are slated to be awesome outside but I'm not sure if they are suitable for mainly gym climbing where there are not many cracks. The Katanas certainly felt more like a performance show. All of them are expensive, but it's really important to me to get a shoe that fits right, so if that costs a little more I am prepared to do that. Sorry for the long post! Feeling frustrated and indecisive. I was all ready to get the TC Pros until I read about them being a waste for gym climbing. |
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TC pros are pretty expensive, as much I love them I use my beat up shoes for the gym. If you climb vertical and slabby routes, maybe try a more sensitive shoe and see if it will improve your footwork |
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TC Pro is not a good choice. They are expensive and meant for long trad days outside, wide cracks or edging. I would take advantage of the black friday sales and order a few different styles in a few different sizes. Try em on at home and then return the ones that dont work. The thinner the shoe the more they will conform to your foot. You may be happy with an inexpensive gym slipper until you figure out exactly what you are after. I have wide feet so I dont have any recommendations. Do a forum search for shoes for narrow feet. Should be plenty of suggestions out there already. Good luck and happy whatever you are celebrating today-day. |
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While I have and love TC pros they would not be my first choice for gym or steep sport climbing. If you went to the factory store in Boulder I assume you're in the area and I would highly recommend going to Rock and Resole. They carry a wide selection of shoes from different brands. There are a couple of brands that offer narrow or low volume options in some models, Butora and I think Scarpa. I would look for something a little softer and more downturned than the TC Pro if you are looking at doing overhanging gym climbing. The TC Pros are fantastic for the more vertical outdoor routes around here in Boulder Canyon and Eldorado. Other places to try shoes around here would be Neptune Mountaineering and bent Gate down in Golden, they both have a pretty good selection. Good luck! |
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Did you try the Miura laces? They fit very different from the Miura VS and IMO, are similar to the Katana with a narrower toe box |
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I would recommend looking into Tenaya shoes. They are quite a bit softer than other brands and work great for narrow feet. Their softness means they are comfortable even a bit downsized or in a bit more of an asymmetrical shape. The mundakas are bit expensive, but are great for gym climbing, as they tackle steep routes well and can smear on volumes. The Tarifas are also great, and are my go to shoe for when I want to try hard without killing my feet |
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Thank you everyone for taking time to reply! I appreciate it. I'm in Loveland, so Boulder is a bit of a drive but not awful. I'll check out Rock and Resole! I am thinking the TC Pros are not what I am after. I have gone ahead and ordered several pairs to try - including Miura laces. I tried the velcro for sure in the factory store and the person helping me there said Miuras never fit anyone right, so recommended that I dismiss them right away. But they get good reviews, many of the women in my gym climb with them, so I am going to give the laces another go. I'll see if I can find the Vapors in lace. I tried the VS and they were incredibly painful Elias, I tried the mundakas at the REI (they were closing so I was a little rushed) and the toe box was too big. It may be that I am so used to (i.e. the only ones I know) are my flat, still Evolv Royals that they were just so very different and that's what put me off. I wish the Katanas had a smaller toe box! They felt perfect aside from that. So perhaps the miuras will be great. What makes this so hard is that the shoes are often cold and stiff and obviously not broken in when you try them, so knowing what level of discomfort to tolerate is hard. I would just order from REI since they accept returns even if you have climbed in them and are not happy, but they don't have any deals / sales right now and so it's not really an option (counting on the sales to consider the more pricey shoes) Probably not helping that I have run out of brain power and decision making ability this year |
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Take a look at what Butora offers - they seem to have a whole line of shoes marketed as "narrow" https://www.hmhoutdoors.com/butora/women-s/ My wife has long narrow feet, one of the Butora models fits her feet reasonably well. |
Emma Murray wrote: I would think that the Tenaya Oasi LV and the Masai could be interesting for you to check out. |
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Definitely agree with the osai LV. I would also recommend looking at aggressive shoes that have a lace rather than Velcro, like muria la e |
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I have narrow feet as well and found the la sportiva finale are good gym shoes that perform amazing for their low price |
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I have very narrow low volume feet, and Tenaya are amazing. I use the Masai lace outside, and the Ra Womens for inside climbing. Rock and Resole carries them. The Ra women’s is the first Velcro shoe that doesn’t fit my feet like a garbage bag. A Tenaya rep put me on the track of the Ra because the Mastia was too wide. The Masai just seem like perfect shoes for me, but they are a little inconvenient in the gym |
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+1 for butora. I have narrow feet and they work well for me. |
Victor K wrote: Thanks for the replies! Because my account is new I'm not able to reply quickly, I'm sorry! I tried on the Tenaya Masai today and they felt great, like someone had just covered my whole foot in leather and rubber. Victor, may I ask why you prefer the Ra over the Masai for inside? Is it just because of the laces being a pain to take on and off or because of performance (sounds like the Masai is a trad shoe?) There was only one pair there in a 41 and I was fitting a 40 in the La Sportivas. I was surprised that the 41 fit really well. Have yours stretched and do you mind letting me know how the sizing compares to your street / other shoe size? One last question for anyone with experience with the Masai - do you think they are a good fit for what I am looking for: a shoe that will assist me progressing from 5.11 to 5.12 etc in a gym, with some outdoor? I will do some overhangs for sure, but no bouldering. Going outside for the first time on Sunday! Both super stoked and also a little scared. I'm going with an experienced group but it's a whole new experience for me. I get Raynaud's so definitely bringing the handwarmers... |
Emma Murray wrote: I have 2 pairs of the Masai, and they are great and will not hold you back for your intended use. Great for edging and smearing, and for my heel shape good for heel hooks as well, cause it fits my heel like a glove. Fairly sensitive for a good edger. There are better options for very steep overhang routes and boulders, but you can't find one shoe perfect for everything. You should focus on getting a shoe with a good fit. I have one pair in my street shoe size, witch are snug with big toe flat and the rest with a comfy curl, and one pair a 1/2 down with longtime comfort decreasing but edging capabilities increasing. I never bothered to try the Ra because I like the flexibility of the laces, and I find them really easy to put on and off, compared to other lace-models. Best of luck on your first climb on rock! |
Emma Murray wrote: I simply like the Ra for easy on/easy off in the gym. I just tried them outside this fall, and decided that they will remain my gym shoe. They are simply not as precise as the Masai. The smallest gym foothold is huge compared to what the Masai are capable of. Regarding the Masai for progression, they'll serve you well. Regarding overhanging climbing: How overhanging? Severely overhanging, moderate routes (jug hauls) are fine in them. I have exactly the same sizing strategy as R Bridge for the Masai, for the same reasons. I wouldn't consider the Masai a trad shoe exactly, as it is way more flexible than TC Pros. But because it's not downturned, they're better on terrain that goes from gently overhanging to low angle slab. For climbing in the Front Range, they are perfect. I'm a low 11 climber outside, and high 11 easy 12 inside. I've never felt like my shoes were holding me back, quite the opposite in fact. |
