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Best softshell jacket?

Original Post
Ethan S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Looking to pick up my first softshell. Any recommendations?

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55

Rab Torque gets my vote.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Find a used one at a good outdoor consignment store. I have been getting great finds lately like that with brands such as North Face and Mammut, many of which were a third the cost of new. Or, get something on closeout online. The less you spend, the more you will like the garment and the less concerned you will be about wear. 

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

Arc'teryx Gamma MX (hooded).

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,070

Depends on what you're asking of it.  Something you wear ice climbing might not work very well for clipping to your harness for multi-pitch rock climbs.  I have 3 soft shells that I wear a lot.  I rarely bring hard shells anymore unless the weather looks bad (or I'm doing something committing like an alpine rock climb where I always like to have a light rain jacket).  I prefer standard woven soft shells without any kind of fleece backing or membrane.  The Gamma MX is a nice jacket but is too warm IMO outside of winter.  It would be nice as an ice climbing jacket however.

1.  BD Alpine Start.  Basically a soft shell wind shirt.  Way more durable than a Houdini or similar nylon windshirt if worn climbing.  Light & packable. Excellent for clipping to your harness and bringing up multi pitch climbs.  A great layer anytime you're looking to go light.

2.  An older Arc'teryx Psiphon FL.  This is a medium weight soft shell, similar in weight to an OR Ferrosi.  More weather protection than the Alpine start.  Plus it has hand pockets.  The newer Gamma SL seems similar.  I use this a lot for spring skiing & hiking.  Also good for alpine rock climbs.  I really wish it stuffed into its own pocket for clipping to a harness, but it's a minor complaint.  Something in this category is probably the best all-around option.

3.  An Arc'teryx Gamma LT hoody.  This is heavier than #2.  I wear this in the winter for backcountry skiing (if it's not a storm day).  If I ice climbed I'd also use this jacket.  I'd only wear it rock climbing if it was going to be quite cool & windy.  It's a great jacket but the least worn of the 3.

I personally dislike soft shells with membranes (like Gore Windstopper).  They significantly impact the breathability and add weight.  My only exception to this was the old Patagonia Knifeblade, which was Polartec Powershield Pro.  It was very weather resistant, nearly waterproof.  I used this all the time backcountry skiing, even in mid-winter.  It basically functioned like a hard shell but was more comfortable and breathable.  Unfortunately they stopped making it.  

The Rab Torque is a nice all-around option.  Standard double weave fabric with no backing.  I decided to go with the Gamma LT due to fit.  I tried the Torque on.  The Torque had weirdly tight forearms.  I couldn't layer much underneath it with the tight forearms.  

Edited to add: The OR Ferrosi is another great option.  Versatile, breathable, packable, pretty light, and inexpensive.  

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

+1 for Gamma LT Hoody or the discontinued Alpha Comp Hoody

Ben M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Arc Sigma FL Anorak. Excellent midweight softshell for climbing, wildly abrasion resistant and balances breathability with wind resistance quite well, especially for alpine endeavors. Plus it has that glorious Arc cut. I've worn mine every day for two weeks on multiple trips. Can't recommend enough for a mid-weight softshell. Will second the Gamma MX for a winter-specific piece. 

CDub · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5
Mike McL wrote:

My only exception to this was the old Patagonia Knifeblade, which was Polartec Powershield Pro.  It was very weather resistant, nearly waterproof.  I used this all the time backcountry skiing, even in mid-winter.  It basically functioned like a hard shell but was more comfortable and breathable.  Unfortunately they stopped making it.  

OMG, this is hands down my favorite softshell, just wore it out yesterday. Does anyone still make jackets with the same material, or did Powershield Pro also go away? I've never seen a fabric so water-resistant, durable, breathable, and windproof at the same time. It's an amazing article of outerwear.

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

Outdoor Research Ferrosi. Get the “Summit Hoody” model if you plan to wear it with a helmet.

Bombproof, wonderfully breathable, sheds snow and light rain, bombproof. 

Detrick S · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 147
CDub wrote:

OMG, this is hands down my favorite softshell, just wore it out yesterday. Does anyone still make jackets with the same material, or did Powershield Pro also go away? I've never seen a fabric so water-resistant, durable, breathable, and windproof at the same time. It's an amazing article of outerwear.

Not to mention stretchy and comfortable! I've used the Patagonia Knife-EDGE as my only soft-shell for four-season biking, climbing, ice climbing, skiing, snowshoeing, etc for 4-going-on-5 years. It is an indispensable piece of gear.

*Edited "Knifeblade" to "knife-edge"

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I had the Kniferidge which came after (I think) and yeah it was a pretty good compromise. I loved it in the alpine but didn't like carrying it up there. I thought about keeping it and adding pit zips, maybe I should have.

66North makes a PSP shell. I don't know if the hood is helmet compatible. And it doesn't look seam taped if you care (my Kniferidge was, not sure about the Knifeblade)

https://66north.com/us/vatnajokull-mens-softshell-jacket/p/K11167?c=men-jackets-and-coats

There are a few more jackets available in Neoshell which is one step up in Polartec waterproofness, though not Goretex level swampy. Bight Gear and Westcomb both make one. The latter is made in Canada and not under the auspices of the CCP if you care about such things.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

+1 Rab Torque—great fit, durable fabric, hood not perfect over a helmet.

Mountain Equipment has a nice one, don’t recall name. 

Tjaard Breeuwer · · Duluth, MN · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 16

@Ethan Smith , you really need to narrow down what you want out of a softshell jacket.


Things like fit, features, weight, breathability, wind resistance, water resistrance and warmth really vary so much, that there is not even close to one answer. It is probably the single most diverse category in apparel. Think of it like the word “bird”, that covers Ostriches to Hummingbirds, Eagles to swans.

What is great for one application or person is horrible for another.

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440

If you need a warm winter jacket. Those 2 Kailas are awesome. The  Powershield is very cozy and warm. This fabric by Polartec is discontinued because it's too expensive. Outdoor Research made the Lodestar years ago but the Kailas is superior (much more stretchy with underarm panels and bigger pockets). I own Verti Call but my comments are 100% honest. I have used both jackets since the start of last winter. I did ice climbing, mixt, drytooling and hicking. I know the only reason why it's not sold out it's because it's from a not well known brand in North America. Every customers that bought it have only excellent comments and some bought both jackets or 2 different colours. Sorry to self promote but at this price it's a bargain that any ice climber should jump on it. This is my true honest opinion. 

https://www.verticallstore.com/KAILAS_Mens_Apex_Polartec_Powershield_Softshell_Jacket/p4546831_20776477.aspx

https://www.verticallstore.com/KAILAS_Mens_O2_Extreme_Softshell_Jacket/p4546831_20776520.aspx

Joel May · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 20

Marc, how would you say those jackets compare in warmth to something like the Patagonia Nano Air or Arc’teryx Proton LT?

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,284

I really like the BD cirque Jacket.  Only negative is it is just a wee bit heavy.  

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440
Joel May wrote:

Marc, how would you say those jackets compare in warmth to something like the Patagonia Nano Air or Arc’teryx Proton LT?

I have never used the proton but I have the Patagonia nano air pants which I like a lot. I would say both kailas jacket are a bit warmer in my opinion but it's hard to tell. I often put my nano air pants inside the house in day rest but I never put my jacket inside. Is it because it's too warm or because it's a jacket. The nano air feel more like a layer to wear under a shell, it's maybe why I put it inside. Sorry, it's hard to know. It's maybe similar. 

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5
jdejace wrote:

66North makes a PSP shell. I don't know if the hood is helmet compatible. And it doesn't look seam taped if you care (my Kniferidge was, not sure about the Knifeblade)

https://66north.com/us/vatnajokull-mens-softshell-jacket/p/K11167?c=men-jackets-and-coats

FYI in case anyone is following this thread

Thank you for contacting us here at 66°North. The hood should fit a helmet.

Best regards

 


Lilja Björg Magnúsdóttir

Head of Customer Service

Those jackets Marc is selling look good. I am in the US and have ordered from Verticall in the past with no issues if anyone is on the fence.

Edit: in fact while browsing I just sent some money his way for this thing I didn't know I needed, Thanks Marc :-)

https://www.verticallstore.com/KAILAS_Ice_Tool_Bag/p4546831_17883228.aspx

Evan Gerry · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

Figure I would post on to this thread instead of making a new one. I just got a Gamma MX and really want to love it but the armpits are just too tight (as was the size S Atom AR I ordered with it) I’m only 5’5” 130 lbs. Could anyone recommend a similar weight soft shell to the Gamma MX with a more forgiving fit? Thanks

Matt S · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Evan Gerry wrote:

Figure I would post on to this thread instead of making a new one. I just got a Gamma MX and really want to love it but the armpits are just too tight (as was the size S Atom AR I ordered with it) I’m only 5’5” 130 lbs. Could anyone recommend a similar weight soft shell to the Gamma MX with a more forgiving fit? Thanks

I'm not sure if its my body type or what, but the Gamma MX is the worst fitting jacket I have ever put on.  Everything else from Arc always fits me very well, so its been a little bit of a mystery for me why the MX is so far off.  I'm hoping it gets a redesign one day beacuse i think it wold be a great jacket!

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
Matt S wrote:

I'm not sure if its my body type or what, but the Gamma MX is the worst fitting jacket I have ever put on.  Everything else from Arc always fits me very well, so its been a little bit of a mystery for me why the MX is so far off.  I'm hoping it gets a redesign one day beacuse i think it wold be a great jacket!

Wondering what about the fit was off for you? Also they did just redesign it for 2020, its longer in the hem if that helps. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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