Tensioned Line Descenders?

I'm curious if anyone knows of a device that is a decender, and can be installed on a rope under load, and fully tensioned. The Taz Lov2 is currently the only one I know of, but it is pretty expensive. Anyone else know of any other contenders? Searching for something around $150 USD or less, but the cheaper the better. 

Looking for a device to carry that can get me off my Camp Goblin after a TR Solo fall, something that takes one step, instead of several. Thanks in advanced.

1. Install your Grigri under your Camp Goblin
2. Unscrew the gate on your Camp Goblin attachment biner.
3. Pull up/lock off on the rope and unhook your Camp Goblin biner from your belay loop.
4. Slowly lower your weight onto your Grigri and lower down.

I'm glad I could respond so quickly with the obligatory post that doesn't actually answer your question. Now that this is out of the way, I'm sure you'll get nothing but helpful and direct answers moving forward!

Demetri V wrote:

1. Install your Grigri under your Camp Goblin
2. Unscrew the gate on your Camp Goblin attachment biner.
3. Pull up/lock off on the rope and unhook your Camp Goblin biner from your belay loop.
4. Slowly lower your weight onto your Grigri and lower down.

I'm glad I could respond so quickly with the obligatory post that doesn't actually answer your question. Now that this is out of the way, I'm sure you'll get nothing but helpful and direct answers moving forward!

I've done that a couple of times, and it isn't the worst, but itd be nice to be able to test my weight on an upper device before committing to coming off the Goblin. Either way, thanks for the reminder of the obvious answer. Just to add to your description, you can go in-direct to a figure 8 on a bight tied below you, just in case something goes wrong. This is obviously more steps though.

RRR wrote:

...you can go in-direct to a figure 8 on a bight tied below you, just in case something goes wrong. This is obviously more steps though.

Or a clove hitch!   

A Connect Adjust + Tibloc/Microtraxion/Basic/prusik + long sling makes this super trivial, especially because you probably have a Grigri already. It replaces the "pull up hard and lock off to fiddle with the primary ascender" step with something considerably less effort and less sketchy-feeling: "install ascender above primary ascender, step into long sling, pull up slack on adjustable lanyard until your weight is on the new ascender." Then, when you would otherwise need to slowly lower yourself onto your Grigri with your bicep strength, you instead just need to step into the sling again to unweight the lanyard and pivot the little metal adjusting doohickey, and ease yourself happily onto your Grigri with the Connect Adjust.

This is, of course, almost the word-for-word textbook procedure for changing from ascending a rope to descending a rope. If you're smart and you know what you're doing, you can probably rig this up without any new product:

- some kind of prusik to use as a rope grab
- an adjustable lanyard (possible to hack together but likely a bit bulkier and less reliable/easy to use than the ones off the shelf)
- a long sling to step in

In fact, on a perfect day with perfect usage by a competent person, every single one of those tools could probably be some kind of sling. 

Edit: And the reason this is the correct answer is that there pretty much isn't a tensioned-line-loadable descender like the TAZ Lov2, especially if you're not psyched about paying the $250 you'll often see on pro rope access gear.

there are quite a few in the rope access/arborist industries, but not for $150

curt86iroc wrote:

there are quite a few in the rope access/arborist industries, but not for $150

Yep, I think the Unicender fits the bill: https://www.backcountrygear.com/unicender.html

Not only is it not $150, it's not really something your average climber is gonna want to take up a route and use to descend. Cool piece of kit though

Can't you just tie a VT Prussick? 

VT is awesome 

Lov2 is sweet as well

Unicender looks awesome, but way too much, plus it isn't SS. The VT is promising. Yes, the Lov2 would be sweet. Wish there was a mod or accessory for the Goblin that allowed you to lower yourself. One device, one step is the goal.

RRR wrote:

Unicender looks awesome, but way too much, plus it isn't SS. The VT is promising. Yes, the Lov2 would be sweet. Wish there was a mod or accessory for the Goblin that allowed you to lower yourself. One device, one step is the goal.

I think that mod is called selling your goblin and buying the Lov2 xD. Remember to buy the right cord for the VT Prussick but just for minor descending nylon shouldn't reach its melting point (I think) 

Ben Ha wrote:

I think that mod is called selling your goblin and buying the Lov2 xD. Remember to buy the right cord for the VT Prussick but just for minor descending nylon shouldn't reach its melting point (I think) 

The Goblin tracks so perfectly. I won't be getting rid of that, it is the best design for going up.

You can easily put a Trango Cinch or Vergo on a tensioned line. The older cinch design is a little easier to place on a tensioned rope, but the vergo works well too. I have used both for top rope solo, as my descender and I have placed them on tensioned lines, ie me hanging on the rope, many a time.

Isn't the Trango Vergo capable of being used on a loaded line?

Dylan Willis wrote:

Isn't the Trango Vergo capable of being used on a loaded line?

You are correct.  I had one collecting dust in the gear bin, and tried it out. Wish I would have learned that earlier.  

Re the Unicender...who climbs on 11-13 ropes?!

I agree with the Vergo BUT just use it as both the primary device AND descender...problem solved (or same with the Lov2). Then you never have to muck around adding it to a tensioned line.

https://sicgrips.blogspot.com/2020/08/vergo-for-top-rope-soloing.html?m=1

I'm curious about this subject as well. I'm in the process of bolting a very steep (20' overhang), diagonal climb. In order to stay close to the rock, I fixed my line to the top anchor and again at the base of the climb. Howepvep, that rope. needs to be tight AF to avoid swinging away from the line of the climb. Too tight to use a grigri on. Climbing with a microscender, I have to aid all the way back up when I fall because I can't put on a rappell device. Would the Vergo be able to descend a line this tight? 

My solution to this problem so far (off topic) is to fix the taut line, then climb on another rope adjacent to it, attached with a shoulder length sling so I only wing off that 20" or whatever. But it's a pain to even swing off that far and hard to get into the cliff to drill. 

VT prussic, 25$

Thank everyone. Found a Vergo. Ill be back to sell it off for a good price if it doesn't fit the bill. 

P.S. Confirmed after 10+ outings, the Camp Goblin is the most superior TR Solo device for ascending, or when attempting full routes and don't need to lower every few minutes. It also is surprisingly easy to lower yourself by a couple of feet at a time with one hand, if youre strong enough to hold on the rope briefly to take the weight off. It's super easy if you have holds to grab or put your feet on.

Ira OMC wrote:

I'm curious about this subject as well. I'm in the process of bolting a very steep (20' overhang), diagonal climb. In order to stay close to the rock, I fixed my line to the top anchor and again at the base of the climb. Howepvep, that rope. needs to be tight AF to avoid swinging away from the line of the climb. Too tight to use a grigri on. Climbing with a microscender, I have to aid all the way back up when I fall because I can't put on a rappell device. Would the Vergo be able to descend a line this tight? 

My solution to this problem so far (off topic) is to fix the taut line, then climb on another rope adjacent to it, attached with a shoulder length sling so I only wing off that 20" or whatever. But it's a pain to even swing off that far and hard to get into the cliff to drill. 

Ill try it out, but based on the way it looks, I dont think it would lower without some slack below. Looks like the Taz Lov2 is what you're looking for.

I bolt steep lines regularly, and all you need to do is just stick cams in the wall all the way down the climb, then you can do whatever you want. Get creative.  Bring the big and small cams. The placements dont need to hold lead falls.

Also, in really tricky spots where you don't want to risk destroying a hold with a cam, you can be on single line rappel with a Rig/Grigri, then run the brake side through a lower piece or bolt, and use a second auto locking device to pull yourself tight to the wall. Two grigri's works great so you can adjust as you go, slacking out, lowering and pulling yourself back in. The devices are being pulled in opposite directions, so they don't get in the way of one another. Just don't use a device that you can't easily release or you could get stuck.

To help visualize the setup, the rope runs from the anchor, to your main self belay device (grigri), down through a carabiner clipped to a cam or bolt, back up to you clipped to a draw, waiting to be attached to a second grigri once you're in position.

Ira OMC wrote:

I'm curious about this subject as well. I'm in the process of bolting a very steep (20' overhang), diagonal climb. In order to stay close to the rock, I fixed my line to the top anchor and again at the base of the climb. Howepvep, that rope. needs to be tight AF to avoid swinging away from the line of the climb. Too tight to use a grigri on. Climbing with a microscender, I have to aid all the way back up when I fall because I can't put on a rappell device. Would the Vergo be able to descend a line this tight? 

My solution to this problem so far (off topic) is to fix the taut line, then climb on another rope adjacent to it, attached with a shoulder length sling so I only wing off that 20" or whatever. But it's a pain to even swing off that far and hard to get into the cliff to drill. 

vt hitch prussic would work for this. But the comment above me sounds like a better way of handling this.