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Strange finger injury

Original Post
Xavier Rojas · · Broomfield · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 37

Alrighty friends I have a weird one for you. I was bouldering when I heard a subtle tearing/ripping sound in my left ring finger. No pain. Strange because all of my body weight was on my right arm and leg ( I was hanging left leaning on the right side of a severely overhanging left leaning arete), and my left hand was just gently being used under the lip to stop a quick barn door, and then generate a bit of momentum for a small dyno. During this little catch-and-pull is when I heard the tear and I immediately dropped and stopped climbing. I am 3 days out and there is no pain to the touch, I have 95% range of motion (finger can fully flex just short of touching the top of the palm before it feels wrong so I stop, but it still is not pain). There is arguably the slightest numbness. Whatever happened took place in the A3/4 region.

Is this a pulley injury? The fact that I didn't have body weight on it, the sound was a tear and not a pop, there is no pain and I still have most motion is counter to every other forum and pulley injury page that I have read, so perhaps it is something else? Perhaps a subluxation? Or cruciform ligament? One thing to consider is that the hold the left hand was on before the catch-and-pull put a lot of sideways force/torque on the fingers (looking at a hand placed flat on a table, the force on the finger tips was directed towards the thumb). Perhaps when I caught the barn door my finger was tweaked a little sideways from that hold...

Alright I know all of you are doctors so please leave your incredibly educated and reliable opinions below.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

As your primary care doctor, I am going to refer you to a hand surgeon.

Xavier Rojas · · Broomfield · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 37

@foy no forearm pain at all.

Honestly after re-reading my post it might even seem like there isn't an injury given the lack of pain and the fact that I still have 95% range of motion. All I can really say is that there was a tearing sound and that something in my finger simply "doesn't feel right..." I can't really speak to whether there's pain in my finger when trying to grip because I'm not going to grip anything anytime soon.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 341

I'd be curious if you have explored the range of grips to see if you experience pain.  I had a finger injury last year that did not hurt unless crimping extremely hard, but I could do moderate edges, crimps, jugs and even hang boarding with no issues.  It would hurt at the slightest pull if I was pinching vertically or on a sloper at about any angle.  Whichever ligament was injured only acted up when activated laterally, or when at my max pull on a crimp.  

TJ Brumme · · Morocco · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,203

It's worth getting an MRI. 6 years ago I heard the dreaded 'pop' in my ring finger while climbing at the gym. I heard the pop, but I didn't immediately realize it was from my finger because there was no pain. After a few seconds of inspecting the hold (which I though had snapped) I realized it was my finger and I lowered off. 

Went to an Urgent Care which was pointless. Didn't end up doing anything after that as there was no pain associated and I still had almost full range of motion. 1-2 months later (can't remember the exact timeline) I realized that I couldn't straighten my finger. I had been protecting it and not using it, but now I realized that I couldn't force it to straighten. I tried to consult a surgeon to see if he could fix it, but he wanted me to straighten it with physical therapy before he would consider surgery. I tried a finger splint that was supposed to help straighten it, but never saw any progress so I now have a permanent bend in my ring finger. It really makes finger cracks a pain, but I've learned to live with it. 

All that to say, the finger injury may or may not be painful, and it may or may not make a noise. Definitely worth getting an MRI to be sure it's not a full rupture. 

Xavier Rojas · · Broomfield · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 37

Just an update: I realized I could feel my tendon bowstring in the PIP joint area when flexing at the DIP joint. I saw an orthopedic surgeon and it was a complete waste of time like almost all of my experiences with orthopedic doctors - he half heartedly recommended an MRI but didn't have much confidence it would be helpful. So I found a climbing physical therapist named Kevin Cowell located at the G1 climbing gym in Broomfield, CO. He was incredibly helpful and conducted an ultrasound on the finger while lightly loading it. You could clearly see a gap beneath the tendon where the A4 pulley should be. It seems like a 75-100% rupture of the A4 pulley. We'll see if it reattaches and cinches itself back up. Otherwise, I may be out of an A4 pulley, which is apparently not the end of the world; people climb hard without it all the time. 

I'll continue to update this for all those who might have an A4 pulley rupture. Thanks yall.

BTW I would HIGHLY recommend Doctor Kevin Cowell (https://www.theclimbclinic.com) for all those on the front range, for any climbing related injuries and truly any sports medicine issues. It has been the most helpful doctor/physical therapy encounter I have had.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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