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Ice screw wear down
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I'm quite new to the ice climbing wolrd, but it's time for me to buy some ice screws, I may buy BD ultralight ice screws but they will last less if i need to sharpen them multiples times. if I climb ice 10/20 days a year , will they last for 10 or 20 years ? if You have other arguments against them fell free to speak |
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They pretty much don’t wear down (much) unless you hit rock. If you hit rock they will never be the same again. Ultralight aluminum screws are a royal pain in the ass on wet ice, I recommend you buy 50/50 ultralight and steel screws. |
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Just get a rack of expresses, they place great, they last forever, and it's not like you'll be getting on some futuristic alpine line that you'll even notice the weight savings if you're just starting out. I've had a rack of expresses for that amount of time with about that amount of climbing per season, I love them, they're workhorses. |
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I feel that the Petzle ultra light screws place easier than the BD version. I have both but more of the BD's ultra lights are great for big climbs but not nessicary on smaller easier climbs. I typically carry 16 screws for a big climb @ the lake. Ultra lights make a difference there. My harness stays up a little better. no hips,extra layers and lots of weight on it and it falls off in the winter.. cragging with 10 screws the standard stainless express was not a problem.. |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: I think I just noticed that the tooth profile on the BD ultralight screws is quite different than the Express teeth. Scratching my head on that. OP - if you make a habit of hitting rock, expect 2, maybe 3 resharpenings on those expensive aluminum screws. Steel screws can go on "forever". |
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Agreed the petzl ultra lights seem to place much easier then the BD ultra lights. Also I prefer petzl screws in general over BD because the hanger size is smaller so you can place the screws in smaller flat spots in the ice. I find my self needing to clear ice to get the hanger flush with the BDs much more often (larger radius when screwing it in) |
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Hitting rock is what's going to dull the screws. Just take one glance against a hard objet and your screw needs sharpening. Go with the steel screws to start. They can be sharpened many many times. Once you start doing long hard routes, that's the time to get some light screws. Screws do get dull by how you pack them. Keep the rubber caps or better yet get a roll-up. Another way which you can't avoid is bumping/banging against things while it's on your harness. This causes micro dents on the sharp pointy tips and does affect its performance. Which brings me to my next point. Gunkiemikewrote: I posted in another thread about the chisel points on the new BD Alpine screws verses the pointy tips on every other screw on the market. This is what I was trying to get at. I think the chisel tips would be less prone to these micro dings. I see that Camp is now making screws with the chisel tips. |
Gunkiemikewrote: BD is going to update (or has all ready) the Express to have the same tooth profile as the ultralight screws. |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: i feel that i will have to try all screw option before buying my full rack .... |
ryan Smithwrote: This season Petzl is switching out their tooth design on all of their screws. They are going with a three tooth design as opposed to the four tooth layout that everyone seems to be using. Petzl claims that this will improve the screw's initial bite into the ice and makes it easier to sharpen because the gap between each tooth is larger than before. New tri-tooth screw:  Old four tooth screw:  |
