Multi-pitch day pack

I have a number of multi-pitch trips planned for this fall and next spring. I was wondering if anybody had a go-to day pack that they preferred. I'm looking at getting the REI Flash 18 right now. 

Recently, I have being asking myself the same question, and I came to the conclusion to pick up the North Face Verto 27. 

My research was extensive on the internet, but I have also checked with other fellow mountaineers their personal experiences too.

Based on the extensive research, some testing and general feedback I have received, I have decided to purchase the Verto 27 Summit Series by The North Face.

You can read a full review with many photos here: https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/09/02/the-north-face-verto-27-summit-series-backpack-review/

Prior to TNF Verto 27, I was using the Simond Alpinism 22 backpack.

The Simond Alpinism 22 is designed for climbers, mountaineers and Ski touring use for day-long routes. It is a compact, sturdy, all-purpose bag. Its shape and volume make it suitable for all builds and lets to carry all the required gear for a day-long hike.

You can read a full review with many photos here: https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/07/25/simond-alpinism-22-backpack-long-term-review/

I hope I was able to provide you some info.

The model I use is too niche to mentionned but in terms of size I think 20 liters is the sweet spot for multipitch.
Smaller than that and you may have to do the approach with a bunch of stuff on your body (and who like to walk for hours with dangeling quickdraws and the rope around the chest?) and bigger than that it will not allow you to be comforable while climbing. 

This REI flash looks a tad too small. Will it fit harness, climbing gear, shoes, water, snack even with helmet strap outside ? where would the rope(s) goes?
If you really want to stay with a 18 liters the Salewa Apex Climb 18 looks a lot tougher, comfortable, with multiple lashing points and is equiped with a real rope strap. 

Anyway, after a certain level it is a necessity to have only one pack for the follower or to haul it. 

If you are coming back to the base of the climb on the descent, the REI Flash 18 is great. Carry it inside your larger pack during the approach, and wear the Flash on the climb, itself.

If you want to do the approach and the climb with the same pack, you'll probably want something larger, unless you want to wear your harness on the approach.

The REI Flash 18 is a good-sized pack for on the climb and is a relatively inexpensive pack.

FrankPS wrote:

If you are coming back to the base of the climb on the descent, the REI Flash 18 is great. Carry it inside your larger pack, during the approach, and wear the Flash on the climb, itself.

If you want to do the approach and the climb with the same pack, you'll probably want something larger, unless you want to wear your harness on the approach.

The REI Flash 18 is a good size pack for on the climb and is a relatively inexpensive pack.

I agree that if you abseil down and only want a pack for the climb 18 liters is enough.
This is on me, this scenario doesn't really match my practice (alpine) so I didn't even think about it :( 

If it's mainly rock climbing you will be doing.......   Make sure you get something with good durability.  It doesn't hurt to have some weather resistance if you also want to use it as an everyday pack.

BD has the Bullet series, and I got a sweet Mountain Hardwear Multipitch 16 pack I love for the reason that it climbs well and works great as a sport climbing cragging pack and everyday biking around/grocery hauler.  The deployable mesh pocket seemed like a needless thing at first but it is pretty excellent in practice.  Looks like they offer a 20L version in their current line.

I use the flash 18 when there isn’t a long approach and usually turn to my flash 30 (don’t think they make this anymore) if the approach is longer or if I need to carry more gear. 

Thanks everybody! This will be something for on the climb, I have a larger full suspension bag for approach. 

Patagonia Linked 18L

Love my Petzl bug. 18L, lots of attachment points on the outside for gear, strap for carrying the rope over the top, pouch for camelback, comfy straps, rides above a harness.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Packs-and-accessories/BUG

Arcteryx Alpha FL30 if you can find it on sale.  Great pack but no way in hell it's worth the dead bird primo price tag. 

Chris Fedorczak wrote:

Patagonia Linked 18L

Patagonia linked 18L is great but discontinued, and hard to get used.

I’m using a osprey mutant 22l. Can carry my harness+rack+shoes+water inside if I pack well, and has a rope strap and attachment point for your helmet on the outside. Because it’s light and flexible it feels much smaller when empty and climbs fine. It’s narrow at the bottom and rides high, so stays out of the way. I also have the mountain hardwear pack which is super rugged, but the fabric is so stiff that it’s not as comfortable to climb in. 

 The mutant 22 also has a good ice tool carrying system so very versatile. 

I have used both the flash and the patagonia linked.  For the climb, where there isn't much weight in the pack, either will work fine.  For a longer approach with a rack and/or rope adding a bit of weight to it, the patagonia is far and away the better pack.

I spent a while pondering the same question. I ended up going with Osprey mutant 22. It turned out to be not as durable as I would have liked, but the design is great. I can get a full rack of trad gear, harness, small first aid kit, and 2 liter water bottle inside, clip my shoes, helmet, and rope on the outside, and comfortably carry it for an approach at least up to 2 miles (haven't tried longer). Downside is it developed a small hole from rubbing on rock after less than a dozen pitches. 

second for the Mountain Hardware Multipitch pack.  I have the 20L and it can fit a (near) double rack, my shoes, harness, water (bladder or bottle), small first aid kit, rope + helmet strapped to the outside.  Has some room to spare for miscellaneous things like snacks, phone, wallet, guidebook.  All the straps pack away cleanly also if you needed to haul it or stick it inside a larger pack.

Only downside is that the durable canvas material is not waterproof.

I have the Mountain Hardware scrambler 25 for my multipitch pack. It looks very similar to the North Face Verto 27. Its a really good alpine climbing pack in that it can carry a good bit of gear, layers, food, water, rope, and ice tools. I like the built-in gear loops as wearing a pack can sometimes block the ones available on your harness. Its also very durable and water resistant. I would definitely buy again for the types of trips I take.

Some great options:

• Tufa Mochilla*
• Patagonia Linked 18*
• BD Blitz 20*
• BD Rock Blitz 15
• BD Bullet
• UD SCRAM*
• Petzl Bug
• Osprey Mutant 22*
• Deuter Speedlite 12/16/20
• Mountain Hardwear Multipitch 20*
• Arcteryx AR20
• Blue Ice Squirrel 22
• Mammut Nordwand 20*

(* items my partners or I have used)

Here's one review: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-backpack

There are A LOT of climbing packs out there, and you'll find diverse opinions about which one to buy.  One thing to help, for starters, is identifying what you need.  For example, if you need ice axe loops, or rope carry, or have a weight vs. durability preference, that would eliminate some of the options listed above.

I'd recommend supporting small business and getting a Tufa Mochilla - mine's gone with me across the world for years now and holds up great. 

I use the original creek 20 with the durable cloth/ rubber stuff. It works great, never had any problems with it. Also Trango makes a really cool one I’ve been curious about.

Another day pack I would suggest is the Blue Ice Dragonfly 18l or 25l.

The Tufa Mochilla is the best on route pack I've ever used, and Josh is a pleasure to work with. The higher price is worth supporting a small business and getting a far superior product.