Moderate Sport Climbing in Joshua Tree?

I’m going to be climbing in JT next month, and I know that a lot of the sport routes are pretty sandbagged, especially in the moderate range.

Anyone have any recommendations on good routes/areas to climb for someone that’s leading 10a/10b in more modern sport climbing crags?

One recommendation is to buy the JT sport climbing guide by Todd Gordon. Also, the routes on the Headstone are good and accessible. Have fun!

2nd Todd’s book. 

The nice thing about Todd’s book is that he tells you when you “best be solid at the grade for this one”. In other words, he’ll tell you if it’s really a sport route or if it’s a heads up bolted route. A lot of care and first hand knowledge went into that book. 

I recommend referencing MP as well as any guidebook.  For example, one guidebook says Double Dip is 90'.  I assume you its much longer and you cannot set up a TR with a 70M rope.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105722218/double-dip

Mongolia

Just make sure you don't hop on any purely bolted routes that are actually trad routes. I think Walk on the Wild Side or Stitcher Quits would be an experience for you if you're not used to it.

New Jack City is worth the stop. It's 45 min to an hour north.