How many lockers do you carry?

I'm thick into my first year of trad leads. I think I carry too much of everything, but I'm trying to cut down where I can (I'll probably continue to carry too much gear until I feel more comfortable assessing routes beforehand). How many lockers do you take with you when leading? And what type (always one HMS? as small and light as possible? etc.)?

No more than 3. I’ll bring 4 if bringing a micro traction to haul or simul.

1-securing yourself with clove

1- belay 

1- for guide mode belay from above and to use for Prussik on rappels 

I usually just have two free lockers, one light small D (Edelrid Slide Lock) and one light HMS (Petzl Attache). I also carry a very small mulitpitch self-rescue kit on another Edelrid Slide Lock with a personal prussic (Sterling HollowBlock), a double length sling, small knife (Trango Pirhanna), and my ATC. I belay from above and below with my Grigri so my ATC doesn't need a dedicated locker. Multipitch rescue kit is basically everything I need for a rap extension and rappelling too. 

Usually 3-4:

1 small offset-D for my clove hitch

1 small offset-D for GriGri

1 small HMS for ATC (only bring this if I plan to rap)

1 big HMS as an extra for general use. HMS is useful for if you need to munter belay/rappel. A large one can help with rigging, like using it as a master point for some types of anchors.

You can always use 2 non-lockers if you run out of lockers.

Aside from my big HMS, I like to use lockers that are as light as possible while still being easy to handle. The offset-Ds I use are around 50g each.

If I’m on a single pitch, usually zero, maybe one if I’ll be threading and lowering from a chain anchor.  

For multipitches, it depends on the route, one or two ropes, anchor situation, descent, etc. But I’ve usually got 3-5 on my harness. Often two proper HMS, then the rest lightweight D’s. 

Between 3 and 4, depending of the situation. 

Specifically for alpine/ multipitch trad, I take 4: 1 Petzl Attache and 3 DMM phantom.
I use 2 DMM for belay, the petzl for clove hitch and one DMM for everything else or as a spare. 

Of course, you can always do with less but I found out it is the right amount FOR ME

3.  

On single pitch, usually 2, maybe 3. Multipitch, usually 4. These are some assortment of the following:

- Edelrid Slider on personal tether

- Edelrid HMS Bulletproof on rap device

- Metolius Bravo on Lifeguard

- Edelrid Bulletproof for the anchor (with a matching straight or bent Bulletproof if lowering off).

On multipitch the second brings the next anchor, both cord and locker.

For multipitch:

Leader 4:

2 big. 1 for each anchor power point (so second is carrying one too). 1 for belay device. 

2 small. 1 for clove hitch tether. 1 for guide mode belay, redirect, etc.  

Follower 3 (but often my partners bring more than that):

2 big. 1 for anchor power point. 1 for belay device. 

1 for clove hitch tether.

Dave K wrote:

If you are asking the question the answer is that you are probably carrying too many.

Thank you for fulfilling the standard snarky "the answer to your question is self-evident!" response on this post! If there was an award for uselessness I would slap it right on your response!

Thanks to everyone else for your exceedingly helpful advice.

I have 2 for my belay device (belay and for guide mode) 2 for anchors (one each on my cordalette and double length sling) and one extra with the biner of rescue stuff (prussik and auto block) for a total of 5

We carry ten lockers total. Three Pearabiners on each cordalette. One for each of us, and one we share as our backup. One William for my guide belay mode, as it fits on the cordalette shelf nicely, one for my belay device, and two small Metolius lockers on my back loop just because.

Please lock the thread, the correct answer is three.

There is no correct answer.

5: 1 for my ATC, 1 for guide mode, 1 to tether myself in to anchors, 2 for girth hitch anchor master points (one of which I can leave behind at the belay).  I almost never need all 5, but those extra 7 grams for a screwgate are not what's preventing me from sending.

2 if using an ATC

1 if using a Grigri

Anchors don’t need lockers, belay devices do.

Depends who I'm climbing with. A few of my partners new to climbing outdoors have just a harness, atc, and shoes. With them I usually bring 7. If I'm climbing with someone who has their own gear 3-5 depending on the route. 

However many I have when I get to the top!

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Anchors don’t need lockers, belay devices do.

Depends on the anchor. Some anchors incorporate a non-redundant master point carabiner (girth hitch anchor; clove hitch sling anchor), which should be a locker. 

For Trad, ice, and alpine: my partner carries 4 and I carry 4.

--1 HMS to belay (Petzl Atache)

--1 D for autoblock (Camp photon SG)

--1 D to clove in (Camp photon SG, different color)

--1 HMS to clove or girth hitch anchor masterpoint (attache or BD vaporlock SG)

For Sport multi-pitch: we each carry 4 + 2 lockers for the anchor (purely because I don't like my "free biner" to touch bolts) + 1 at the end of our PAS if we are going to rappel. So 6 or 7. 

I carry 5.  Could pretty much always get away with 3 but carry a couple extra.  2 with atc, 1 hms (usually to clove in with) would be my basics.  Another with a hollow block and another with an extra double length sling.