Red Rock Guidebook so big!

Hi everyone! I have a trip planned to Red Rock NV in December of this year. We will be there for two weeks. If you had to say “climb this route” what would that route be? I would like to get on as many high quality climbs as possible. I recently got the red rocks guidebook in the mail and holy shit it’s so big, I don’t even know where to start. I can climb up to 5.12 on sport and 5.11 on gear if that helps. Also, in comparison to other climbing areas, how soft or stout would you say the area is?

Thanks everyone!

Adam Gallimore wrote:

Hi everyone! I have a trip planned to Red Rock NV in December of this year. We will be there for two weeks. If you had to say “climb this route” what would that route be? I would like to get on as many high quality climbs as possible. I recently got the red rocks guidebook in the mail and holy shit it’s so big, I don’t even know where to start. I can climb up to 5.12 on sport and 5.11 on gear if that helps. Also, in comparison to other climbing areas, how soft or stout would you say the area is?

Thanks everyone!

You could narrow it down, yourself. Do you want sport or trad? Multipitch or single-pitch? Does the approach hike length matter?

I think aiming for routes with the most stars (quality rating) is a good place to start.  Pick your own climbs!

I used to think the ratings were soft at RR, but now believe they are varied. Depends on the climb.

I'll give you one, but generally I agree with everything FrankPS said. Risky Business is one of the best 5.10's I've done anywhere in any style. 

Inti Watana into Resolution Arete would make for an incredible full-day adventure.  Levitation 29 is as good as they say.  Cloud Tower or the Original Route on Rainbow Wall if you're feeling strong.  The Nightcrawler is superb.  Lots of really good stuff in Black Velvet, but it will likely be too cold to climb back there in December.

I wouldn't bother with the cragging at RR...especially if you're coming from NC.  Get your money's worth and get after it on the big stuff back in the canyons!

And just like anywhere...some routes are soft, some are sandbagged...depends on the style, when they went up, who put them up, etc.  

Risky Business

Excellent Adventure

DRIFTING

Regular Route on Rainbow Wall

Delicate Sound of Thunder

Epi

Rock Warrior

Fiddler on The Roof

Kisses Don't Lie

Spring Break

Chicken Eruptus

Adam Gallimore wrote:

Hi everyone! I have a trip planned to Red Rock NV in December of this year. We will be there for two weeks. If you had to say “climb this route” what would that route be? I would like to get on as many high quality climbs as possible. I recently got the red rocks guidebook in the mail and holy shit it’s so big, I don’t even know where to start. I can climb up to 5.12 on sport and 5.11 on gear if that helps. Also, in comparison to other climbing areas, how soft or stout would you say the area is?

Thanks everyone!

The thing about red rock is that your climbs are limited in the extreme months (summer and winter) by sun exposure.  Since you're  going in December,  you'll want to go to sunny, south-facing cliffs unless you want to freeze (Red Rock is colder than Vegas, especially high up on the peaks, and VERY windy).  Most of the recommendations you are getting are not good for that time of year.

Rainbow Wall is out since it faces North and will probably be covered in snow getting up to it.  The cloud tower, Dark Shadows wall, and Black Velvet also face north and will be freezing in december.  I climbed on the black velvet wall in February when it was 70 in Vegas and it was still freezing on the wall.

Some good areas for winter are as follows:

North side of Oak Creek (Solar Slab area and Eagle wall) gets sun all day

Brownstone wall and Jackrabbit buttress in Juniper Canyon get sun most of the day.

Brass wall in pine creek gets sun all day.  East side of mescalito gets morning to afternoon sun.

All of the pullouts go in to the sun around 9-10 and stay sunny all day.

FrankPS wrote:

You could narrow it down, yourself. Do you want sport or trad? Multipitch or single-pitch? Does the approach hike length matter?

I think aiming for routes with the most stars (quality rating) is a good place to start.  Pick your own climbs!

I used to think the ratings were soft at RR, but now believe they are varied. Depends on the climb.

And if you were unaware, you can do such filtering on Mountain Project (for only the routes in the DB, obviously). Try tinkering with this.

I'd suggest referencing the Red Rock FAQ:  https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106983852/frequently-asked-red-rock-questions-with-links-to-the-answers   There are some threads linked there for December-climbable cold weather routes.

My thoughts: the sport climbing in Red Rock is OK, but definitely inferior to the sandstone sport climbing in WV/KY/TN. The long trad routes in Red Rock are much more destination-worthy, and are a better focus for your attention. 

However, there is a seasonal element here too. Many of the best trad routes in Red Rock are in deep shade up in the canyons, and can be absolutely frigid in December (such as the classics on Black Velvet). Just based on weather you may end up needing to spend many of your days (for a December trip) cragging to seek out the lower elevation, sunnier, and less windy walls. When you do get warm/stable days, use those for long routes, and when it is cold/windy go sport climbing.

Two of the best long routes for cold weather (i.e. all day sun) and Eagle Dance and Levitation 29 on the Eagle Wall. Both are excellent, and fairly friendly (lots of bolts).

Also, if you are interested in sport climbing the limestone areas around Mesquite (the Grail; VRG, etc) are superior to the Red Rocks sandstone sport crags. This could be a worthy side trip, especially if the weather (cold; rain) is not favorable to Red Rocks long routes. You can often get dirt-cheap (though somewhat sketchy) hotel rooms at the Virgin River Casino in Mesquite, which makes for a nice indoor place to stay when it is cold.

Buffon's Needle Problem linked to something up on brownstone. 

If you like lots of bolts, do Urioste routes. If you like adventure and boldness, focus on Adventure Punks routes (Pal Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, et all). Id second Rock Warrior, anything on the Challenger Wall, Rainbow Wall (not an Adventure Punks route, but obviously fantastic). Also...definitely do the Warrior!

If you end up heading into Black Velvet Canyon for the various trades in there, Ixtlan 11c if probably one of my fav routes in Red Rocks. Sporty face and fun trad with OW. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105826195/ixtlan

Thanks everyone for the replies. You all have been very helpful in choosing climbs to do. If anyone else has any sunny recommendations, I will gladly take them. It sounds like sport cragging may be our best bet unless the weather is especially nice that day, which we will do more adventure-esque routes. 

Do what you wish, but I'll just offer this from my personal tick list.  I was in Vegas for ten days last December and I climbed Jubilant Song, Nightcrawler, Dark Shadows, Crimson Chrysalis, Black Orpheus, Levitation 29, and Rainbow Buttress.  I was perfectly comfortable on each and every outing.  

ying yang for gear (5.11) 

All of sunny and steep on bolts (5.11’s and 5.12’s)

Both climbs/crags are in the same corridor and face opposite directions for your sun chasing needs 

Second for sunny and steep! It's both!