Round Stock Carabiner Comparisons

How do the current round stock offerings compare to one another? The only ones I know of are the:

-Rock Exotica Pirate

-Sterling Falcon

-Metolius Element

Is a lighter biner like the DMM Phantom HMS noticeably less durable? Would the Phantom HMS actually cause that much extra resistance in guide mode?

I use the Kong HMS Napik with my atc guide. I also use the Metolius Element if I want to save a half oz but I generally don't take it because I don't like how long it takes to screw it up. I have not used the DMM Phantom HMS but I know that the new Petzl Attache which has a similar I-beam construction has a noticeable amount of friction compared to a round stock carabiner.

Falcon is better than Element. Element's lock nut is a fine thread and gets jammed up by grit and take forever to open and close. The falcon also has a nice warning image when it's not locked. I really like the DMM Rhino. Round stock up top for belay use, squared bottom that sits on a belay loop well, and a very smooth lock nut. I only use an I-beam type biner on skinny ropes or when adding friction is the goal.

I just got a couple BD Rocklock biners. I'm not sure they're circle stock but they're pretty round.  They're not light, but I expect them to last until I forget them at the crag or something.

I use a Metolius element with my reverso. The “it takes a long time to screw shut” argument is one of those things that only applies if you’re fake climbing at home next to your computer. Kind of like thumb loops on the Metolius UL master cams.

I wouldn’t use something like a DMM phantom lock as the rope bearing biner for your plaquette. I use small offset D lockers like the phantom for other things, and had to use it in my plaquette ONCE, and that was the last time I ever did. Inordinate amount of friction even on a new 9.2 dry treated rope.

Don’t worry about about durability of items like this. You can get brand new ones for the price of a pack of smokes or a beer at a ball game. Just get whatever is the lightest and/or easiest to use. Prioritizing those two qualities based on your own personal preference.

Demetri, I think you are referring to the offset d phantom locker but DMM has recently released a small HMS version of it.

JaredG wrote:

I just got a couple BD Rocklock biners. I'm not sure they're circle stock but they're pretty round.  They're not light, but I expect them to last until I forget them at the crag or something.

Actually had one have a fracture in it after only about a year of being my rappel bine. It was worn about halfway through and had a tiny crack

Tom Salerno wrote:

Demetri, I think you are referring to the offset d phantom locker but DMM has recently released a small HMS version of it.

I was referring to the offset d phantom locker. Either the OP has been edited to include “HMS” or I need some lessons in reading comprehension.

I’ve been using the Trango Regulock HMS crab to belay with recently. It probably has about 100 pitches on it, and is doing fine.

Tom Salerno wrote:

Demetri, I think you are referring to the offset d phantom locker but DMM has recently released a small HMS version of it.

I've used the Phantom HMS for belaying and it's really smooth. I to me it's close to the feel of a DM RockLock (I've belayed with that a LOT). So my personal opinion is it does great for that type of application (rappelling included). And if you're looking to save weight/room on your harness, it's a great way to go. It is a bit small though (as intended and advertised) so if you find 'biners like the Nano or  Phantoms a bit small or finicky (I use and love the shit out of both of them) then probably avoid it. I've got one I intend to use on my photography jumar rig to redirect my rope with if the d-shaped Phantom doesn't thrill me. (so ask me next season after I've done a head to head on which feeds smoother).  

I've used the RockLock a lot, like I said, and it's big and bulky but great for belaying. Good for the gym, but I'd never take that thing with me outdoors. It does great for rappelling and belaying though. Really smooth, feeds really well even with thicker diameter ropes. 

The Camp Core Lock that comes with the Piu belay kit is also really good for belaying. It's pretty meaty, like the RockLock, and also too big/bulky for my liking to be used in outdoor applications. But if an easy feeding round 'biner is what you're looking for, it may be worth a peep (if big isn't bad). 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120983341/finding-the-best-alternative-to-the-original-attache-a-review-of-rope-bearing-ca

Jeff Luton wrote:

Actually had one have a fracture in it after only about a year of being my rappel bine. It was worn about halfway through and had a tiny crack

May I humbly suggest that you retire your biners long before they get worn halfway through.

Gunkiemike wrote:

May I humbly suggest that you retire your biners long before they get worn halfway through.

+1

Camp Nimbus is very nice. Also cheap and fairly light for what it is.

Danny Radomski wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120983341/finding-the-best-alternative-to-the-original-attache-a-review-of-rope-bearing-ca

Are you specifically looking for pear shaped, round stock carabiners? I have a BD pearlock that is certifiably mid-tier, but very round and easy to handle. Its a little on the heavy side but easy to find and durable. I also purchase a lot of Cypher gear for work and i am happy with the Sawtooth HMS. Its more of a hybrid construction but nice to handle.

Do you need it to be round stock all the way around? There are a bunch of carabiners out there which are round only on the part that matters for smooth belay/rappel, such as the DMM Rhino, Ocun Eagle, Wild Country Ascent, CT Concept, Cypher Iris... The rest of the carabiner besides the basket is I beam, which cuts weight.

It's possible in guide mode to use the spine rather than the basket of the carabiner, and these carabiners aren't round stock in that area, but that is a feature, not a bug, as it gives you two different friction options for guide mode.

Jeff Luton wrote:

Actually had one have a fracture in it after only about a year of being my rappel bine. It was worn about halfway through and had a tiny crack

Bruh

Responding to the question re the DMM Phantom HMS-

My wife and I have been using these as our primary HMS lockers for the past couple years. They are super high quality. I like them more than the Petzl Attaché, which is what I had used previously for years.

For smooth belaying from above, I use and really like the DMM Rhino. It’s very similar to the Phantom HMS, but has a round stock where the rope runs which makes for a noticeably smoother belay.  It also has the little horn to prevent the carabiner from spinning. 

Chris C wrote:

For smooth belaying from above, I use and really like the DMM Rhino. It’s very similar to the Phantom HMS, but has a round stock where the rope runs which makes for a noticeably smoother belay.  It also has the little horn to prevent the carabiner from spinning. 

+1 The DMM Rhino has been my main belay biner for the last few years, and it is very smooth with the DMM Pivot and the ATC Guide I was using before the Pivot.

I will say, I don't think the horn actually works that well to prevent crossloading--it does rotate on me occasionally. It's not a big enough problem for me to change biners, and doesn't seem to happen on guide mode--it's mainly something that happens when lead belaying because the rotation seems to happen when there's slack in the system. I only lead belay with the Pivot when I'm letting someone else (a beginner) borrow my GriGri, and crossloading hasn't been responsible for any deaths I know of, so I don't really care.

Gunkiemike wrote:

May I humbly suggest that you retire your biners long before they get worn halfway through.

+1,000