Let’s talk hydration

Mike Schreiner wrote:

What’s the preferred method for bringing fluids with you on a multi pitch?  I did my first one the other day and the dude I was with had a little Camelback hydration backpack, but that would be problematic if he needed to put his back against the rock. I clipped a Nalgene bottle to my harness, and it worked, but was kind of a PITA. Soft bladders are generally frowned upon in the alpine due to their propensity to freeze, leak or rupture. In fact I just had one leak all over my sleeping bag. So what works for you?

everyone's body is different and every climb is different...but this is what generally works for me:

 on long alpine multi pitches, i'll have a pack anyway so throwing 1 or 2 L of water in is no big deal (usually hard sided water bottles). i've done enough endurance events that i know my body can run on 2 L of water for 12+ hours of activity, so i will almost never bring more than that. for climbs with shorter approaches, but still more than 4 pitches, 1 L of water in a small pack is fine that is moved between the leader and follower (REI flash 18 or similar). For 2-3 pitch routes with short approaches, i won't bring any water.

We would have dehydrated water tablets if Obama and the democrats didn't over regulate the FDA. It's part of Trump's (much superior to Obummercare) healthcare plan... look it up. 

Until then, a 1/2 liter bottle on the harness for < 5 pitches or so, 1-1.5 liters (per person, collapsible bottles) in a ~16L pack for longer or hotter conditions. I'm usually thirsty on the descent. 

Multi-pitch climbing encompasses a really large range of climbing from 2 pitch routes that take 20min to 30 pitch routes that might take 3 days.  You also need to take in to account relative difficulty of the climbing and current weather.  Does the route dictate not bringing a pack? (lots of chimneys) Or maybe it is a big slab route where a pack won't matter.  Or is a pack even needed.  Do you just need water for the route or also for approach/decent?

Below are some of the sizes and types of bottles I use.  What is missing (I couldn't quickly located them in my mess of gear) is a .5L and .75L Gatorade bottle and 2L MSR lightweight Dromedary.

From left to right-

.2L plastic bottle-  Great for routes that are only a few pitches and might be hard enough that you will want a little sip of water.  

.5L  Hydrapak- This is my go to bottle for most grade III/IV routes.  If the route involves a lot of chimney climbing I'd probably go with a .5L Gatorade bottle as it will hold up to the abuse better.

.5L Nalgene-  This is my normal alpine climbing bottle if temps are gonna be cold as I can use it with hot water.  Also more durable so less likely to fail when it is really important.  This is usually paired with a 2L Dromedary.

1LHydrapack- This what I'd take on climb on a full days climb and just clip to my harness.  Again I might swap this for a plastic gatorade bottle is there will be a lot of abrasion. 

3L MSR Dromedary-  I'd only be taking this on overnight climbs where a pack is being used.  I usually just use the 2L version.

I bought these a while back...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788RK183/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They fit the 20 oz disposable sports water bottles (or whatever else you want).  I keep one clipped to my harness and another bottle or two (depending on how long the climb/walk off is and how hot it is) in a pack which the follower carries.  The tab is good and bottles crush down and weight nothing when empty. If they end up leaking, you just toss them.  I actually refill them several times as well.

Chris Stocking wrote:

I think this might have been said as something of a joke, but curious whether people find this to work. I've tried this a few times recently, and have found it to actually be counterproductive vs just drinking a normal amount of water before climbing. Anyone else?

The idea from Peter Croft about drinking lots for days before going does seem like it might be better, though. Will have to try that instead of just slamming water in the parking lot.

Years ago I climbed with a guy who actually did research on hydration and how it worked, methods etc. You are exactly right -- he said that slamming a bunch of water right before an activity doesn't work. Most of it will be peed out. You need to hydrate slowly and methodically ahead of time as well as during the activity to actually absorb water adequately through the intestinal wall.

My solution: the "alpine bottle". Went to the store and found whatever brand of regular water bottle (~16 oz) had the biggest lip under the cap to tie some cord to. I don't have to worry about a nalgene strap breaking, the bottle weighs absolutely nothing, I can crush them when they're empty. I can climb with 1 to 4 bottles depending on temperature/how long I'll be out. I can split them up between my partner and I as needed.

Depends on what I'm climbing. Sometimes a Nalgene, sometimes a small camelback backpack. I add electrolyte tabs sometimes also for longer adventures

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

Multi-pitch climbing encompasses a really large range of climbing from 2 pitch routes that take 20min to 30 pitch routes that might take 3 days.  You also need to take in to account relative difficulty of the climbing and current weather.  Does the route dictate not bringing a pack? (lots of chimneys) Or maybe it is a big slab route where a pack won't matter.  Or is a pack even needed.  Do you just need water for the route or also for approach/decent?

Below are some of the sizes and types of bottles I use.  What is missing (I couldn't quickly located them in my mess of gear) is a .5L and .75L Gatorade bottle and 2L MSR lightweight Dromedary.

From left to right-

.2L plastic bottle-  Great for routes that are only a few pitches and might be hard enough that you will want a little sip of water.  

.5L  Hydrapak- This is my go to bottle for most grade III/IV routes.  If the route involves a lot of chimney climbing I'd probably go with a .5L Gatorade bottle as it will hold up to the abuse better.

.5L Nalgene-  This is my normal alpine climbing bottle if temps are gonna be cold as I can use it with hot water.  Also more durable so less likely to fail when it is really important.  This is usually paired with a 2L Dromedary.

1LHydrapack- This what I'd take on climb on a full days climb and just clip to my harness.  Again I might swap this for a plastic gatorade bottle is there will be a lot of abrasion. 

3L MSR Dromedary-  I'd only be taking this on overnight climbs where a pack is being used.  I usually just use the 2L version.

Hey Mikey,

For the Hydrapak bottles- do you clip the loop that comes on the bottle, and if so, does it hold up ok? The loop on those seems stronger than any other design I've seen, but I wonder how it will hold up in long term use.

Second question- can you get rid of the plastic taste? I am soaking mine with denture cleaner for the third time as I wrote this. I really want to like them, but the taste is probably the worst I have experienced. 

My go to is the burly MSR bags (if I have a pack).