Mountain Project Logo

slung horn/slung rock

Original Post
Mara Vertigo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Hello everybody, 

I'm reading an article about sport climbing and I've run into two expressions that I don't understand. The first is slung horn

The context is sport climbing history and in particular the first ascension of New Mexico’s Shiprock in 1939. This is the passage: 

"In 1939, American climbers ascended New Mexico’s Shiprock using four bolts, along with pitons and a slung horn."

The second expression is slung rock. The context here is France’s Verdon Gorge, mid-1970s. 

"A road along the rim of the Verdon Gorge provided easy access to the top of the 1,000-foot limestone walls. French climbers who were looking for more routes decided to rappel down  to find potential lines. [...] They began bolting these lines and eschewing all other forms of protection except the occasional slung rock."

Could you help in understand? Are we talking about gear?

Thank you very much,

Vertigo

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739

They're talking about natural protection; i.e. wrapping a sling around a "horn" of rock, and clipping to it with a carabiner so it'll catch you if you fall. This can also be done to "knobs" of rock, "chicken heads" (another term for a knob), "chicken necks" (a feature with a thin handle of rock that you can thread a sling through), and chockstones (a loose rock that's wedged into a crack or constriction).

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Here are some examples of slinging a chicken head.

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/using-natural-protection.html

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Mara Vertigo wrote:

Hello everybody, 

I'm reading an article about sport climbing and I've run into two expressions that I don't understand. The first is slung horn

The context is sport climbing history and in particular the first ascension of New Mexico’s Shiprock in 1939. This is the passage: 

"In 1939, American climbers ascended New Mexico’s Shiprock using four bolts, along with pitons and a slung horn."

The second expression is slung rock. The context here is France’s Verdon Gorge, mid-1970s. 

"A road along the rim of the Verdon Gorge provided easy access to the top of the 1,000-foot limestone walls. French climbers who were looking for more routes decided to rappel down  to find potential lines. [...] They began bolting these lines and eschewing all other forms of protection except the occasional slung rock."

Could you help in understand? Are we talking about gear?

Thank you very much,

Vertigo

Verdon has a lot of holes that naturally form in the limestone. They literally take a sling or cord, thread it through the hole and hitch it or tie it in place and then clip the rope into that as protection.

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301

Sport climbing did not exist in 1939.

Mara Vertigo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Thank you very much, Andrew, Allen and Csproul! Now I get it!

Mara Vertigo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
climber pat wrote:

Sport climbing did not exist in 1939.

Maybe this ascension represents sport climbing "prehistory"... An important step toward sport climbing.

Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
climber pat wrote:

Sport climbing did not exist in 1939.

But One needed to be a “Sport” to climb. 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Take a look at Patina Pie:

Now, admittedly it is super easy climbing, but sheesh, a huge runout, lol!

If one was to try and sling something en route, how do you keep it in place when it has to be multidirectional? 

And, why does this get called "sport"? Because it has bolts? Or, because it has bolts and is old school? Meaning, easy terrain that assumes you're good to go? Just curious, not complaining. I've known to be heads up at COR since almost my first visit. I actually like that you may not know what you've got until you are there and staring at it. "Do you see any bolts up there?" "Nope. Do you?" Lol!

Best, Helen

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,967
Old lady H wrote:

Take a look at Patina Pie

If one was to try and sling something en route, how do you keep it in place when it has to be multidirectional? 

Clipping/hanging something from it is the easiest way. Always fun to leave heavy gear behind on a multi-pitch for your partner to haul up. Just don't leave your approach shoes... if they have a sense of humor like mine they might leave them behind.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "slung horn/slung rock"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.