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Mountaineering Boots

Original Post
Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

I bet this one has been beat to death, but I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning on building my gear quiver for winter mountaineering in Colorado and elsewhere when the world opens up. I want good boots but my options are too many.

Say I want to ascend Long's Peak and other Colorado 14ers in the winter and perhaps do Denali someday, I want a boot that is the most versatile and can cover lots of ascents for a long time. Maybe I'm asking too much. 

Whats your opinion?

Nick Quesnel · · Englewood, CO · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

The boots you will want for Denali are very different from the ones you will want to climb Colorado's 14ers in winter. I have La Sportiva G5s for Colorado which I have climbed with temps below 0 and G2SM for higher/colder peaks.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 416

Not sure I agree with Nick. A boot that's suitable for Denali would work well for CO 14ers in winter, at least if you're doing the standard routes. (14ers in winter are an excellent way to train for Denali). But if you're looking to do more technical climbs at lower elevations then a Denali boot would be somewhat bulky and clumsy.

Having said that, if Denali is more of a long-term goal then it might be better to focus on your immediate needs. By the time you get round to attempting Denali you may find you need new boots anyway.

Scott Miller · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 2
Weston Hamilton wrote:

I bet this one has been beat to death, but I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning on building my gear quiver for winter mountaineering in Colorado and elsewhere when the world opens up. I want good boots but my options are too many.

Say I want to ascend Long's Peak and other Colorado 14ers in the winter and perhaps do Denali someday, I want a boot that is the most versatile and can cover lots of ascents for a long time. Maybe I'm asking too much. 

Whats your opinion?

https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_mountain_boots

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Dude, Andy knows everything. Digital Mentor

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Weston Hamilton wrote:

 

Whats your opinion?

you need more than 1 pair of boots. For most objectives in CO a 4 season single is fine. for Denali, start thinking about triple boots...

Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240
Weston Hamilton wrote:

I bet this one has been beat to death, but I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning on building my gear quiver for winter mountaineering in Colorado and elsewhere when the world opens up. I want good boots but my options are too many.

Say I want to ascend Long's Peak and other Colorado 14ers in the winter and perhaps do Denali someday, I want a boot that is the most versatile and can cover lots of ascents for a long time. Maybe I'm asking too much. 

Whats your opinion?

 Those aren't going to be the same pair of boots... Just get a good single leather (nepal), or even a G5 or something if you want... Focus on your immediate plans and goals and try not to get too far out, as it will probably be a bit of time before you hop on Denali, if you're buying your first pair of mountaineering boots now. 

A lot of people use 8000m boots for Denali, but I know a lot who have done them in spantiks as well. I wouldn't want to climb winter 14'ers in either of those boots. 

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 617

Hey Weston, Clint from Alaska here. I'd agree with most folks here...you'll want two different boots. I'd look for a durable winter boot for Colorado. I'm partial to a boot like the Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme. I've had many different boots similar to this and have used them all over the Cascades, Colorado, and Alaska in the winter. If you're looking for a burly, technical mountaineering and ice climbing boot, I've been really impressed with the Trango Tower. Two main points: it walks really well (and has a bomber sole) and the synthetic material doesn't soak up water. Of course, Scarpa and other companies make similar boots of equal quality. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19w/ms-la-sportiva-trango-tower-extreme-boots

I've been a Sportiva boot guy my whole climbing life, but for Alaska recently I switched to the Scarpa Phantoms for the really cold, high mountain stuff like Denali and other Alaska Range peaks. I have had the La Sportiva Spantiks (2 pairs) and the G2 SMs. Both are good, but I didn't think the Spantiks were all that durable, although they climbed great. I found the G2 SMs to be too boxy of a fit and they lacked that technical feel that I was going for. Also, I hated the BOA system. 

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Thanks for the reply Clint, I like the look of the extremes. Have you snowshoed in them before? What is the Comfort level for snowshoe approaches?

James Frost · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 684

Nick Battaglia · · Brigham City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Weston Hamilton wrote:

I bet this one has been beat to death, but I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning on building my gear quiver for winter mountaineering in Colorado and elsewhere when the world opens up. I want good boots but my options are too many.

Say I want to ascend Long's Peak and other Colorado 14ers in the winter and perhaps do Denali someday, I want a boot that is the most versatile and can cover lots of ascents for a long time. Maybe I'm asking too much. 

Whats your opinion?

Do you wear size 43.5?

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

That’s kinda what Mallory’s Everest Boots look like. Guess I’ll get my mail order ready.

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

No, 45-46

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 617
Weston Hamilton wrote:

Thanks for the reply Clint, I like the look of the extremes. Have you snowshoed in them before? What is the Comfort level for snowshoe approaches?

Well, I avoid snowshoeing at all costs. I hate snowshoes almost as much as I hate Phish. But...I have skied (approach, low angle, not downhill ripping by any means) in these lower topped boots and they do OK for that. I'd say they would do fine for snowshoeing.

Also, one more thing about double boots. If you want a double boot that can climb technical and have a variety of uses, do not go with one of those 8000m boots (triple boots) like the La Sportiva Oly Mons or Scarpa Phantom 8000. They're warm, but they are limiting. They are good for mountaineering like Denali West Buttress, Everest standard route. If you're looking into the future and you want to climb technical routes, go with a double boot. They're more durable (the Oly Mons for example has a very soft insulating sole that will wear out quickly if you don't wear it with crampons) and versatile. If you were going on Denali and still wanted a little more warmth with your double boots, you could always bring along a pair of Forty Below overboots. However, I've been on Denali three times and, unless you suffer from really cold feet or go early season, a double boot is plenty.

Cheers!

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

Being fit and competent is a lot more important than the minutia of what’s on your feet. Having said that, phantom 6000s and overboots are more than enough for a June trip.

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 617

right, but that's not the point. If you're going to buy one set of boots to use in Alaska...a pair that you can use for walk ups like Denali and aspire to climb technical routes with...an 8000 meter boot would not be most people's first choice. And I'll just say...I see few people in the Alaska Range using overboots on most modern boots. If they're still rocking Koflachs, Invernos or something like that...sure. Overboots have become a little overkill as the newer generations of boots have come out. Plus...Denali isn't as cold as it used to be. Anyways...beside the point.

mark55401 · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 360

My opinion: the Spantik would serve well as a winter climbing boot at high altitude (14,000+ feet) in the lower 48 and also as a Denali boot. There are better boots for the former, but the Spantik is more than adequate. For Denali, if tromping up the West Buttress, I'd pair it to an overboot -- 40 Below has some good ones; and if going up, say, the West Rib or Cassin, I'd skip the overboot entirely.

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

It’s settled. I’ll summit Denali with Flip flops and Steve Climber’s French Wedge

Nick Battaglia · · Brigham City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Weston Hamilton wrote:

It’s settled. I’ll summit Denali with Flip flops and Steve Climber’s French Wedge

Yer gunna die!

Weston Hamilton · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Fine Nick, I’ll bring my Flextrek Whipsnake then jeez

https://youtu.be/ZAtzN_ScKXY

Mike S · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

I have Denali and Aconcagua on my list as well. I’ve decided that I’ll likely rent boots for those climbs. I’m hard to fit so I plan on making some trial runs with rental boots on Rainier or Baker (PNW seems to have a decent amount of outfitters.)  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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