Climbing shoes that fit like La Sportiva Skwama
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I'm looking for shoes that fit like La Sportiva Skwama. My first three toes are pretty close to the same length (picture attached, forgive me). This means that in many climbing shoes my big toe is flat when my other toes are very scrunched up, which defeats the purpose of a tight performance shoe. My foot is probably slightly wider than average. Ive tried the Tenaya Mastia, which is quite angled from the toe hence i have the issue described above. The skwama is pretty great imo, the downside is that because it is made from unlined leather, in a session it can stretch and become less tight, and the heel isn't perfect on my foot. I want to get another shoe next because i've only ever climbed in the Skwama and I'm curious how other shoes, in particular stiffer shoes, will climb. |
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How does the Scarpa Drago fit in comparison to the Skwama? |
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LS otaki is basically the stiffer version of the skwama. |
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Love the skwama. Just wore through my first pair and by wore through I mean the tiniest holes where the edge turned to rand and I still feel like there is a ton of power in the show. May get the resoled. Was thinking of picking up a pair of futuras to see how they compare |
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Here are some reference points: I find the skwama to be an incredible fit for me, super comfy. I also enjoy the mens futura in the same size immensely, they fit me slightly better. The mens solution (old style) is a slightly worse fit for me than the futura. The scarpa veloce is imo just the skwama but with better rubber, softness, and heel. The booster fits me well, but the entire drago/furia line up doesn't. |
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Maybe butora? I have the opposite shaped foot (long big toe) and the acros felt like they were trying to force my big toe under my "middle toes" |
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James P wrote: I find the otaki has a much baggier heel than the skwama, at least when comparing the two in the same size |
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Evolv Phantom or the Instinct line. |
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Mark Paulson wrote: Could you elaborate on the fit of the phantom? I'd be very interested in this if the toebox is as wide/similar as the skwama. (op here, had to make another account to post) |
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This is my uncle Terry's favorite post ever. He says he'll buy you any model you want if he can help you try them on. He'd also like to see photos of the other posters' feet. |
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Logan Peterson wrote: Yeah we're gonna need more feet pics OP before we can offer advice |
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york akon wrote: I'm always looking for a wide-toebox, narrow heel shoe, and both these fit me well. The Skwamas are a little softer than the Phantom, very comfortable, and are my all-around rope shoe (I wear the W's version for the smaller heel). The Phantoms are a little more structured, have a bit more power, and excel at steep outdoor bouldering. The heel is also a bit smaller, and fits me perfectly. You didn't ask, but I'll include that for some reason, the Euro Scarpa websites designate all their shoes by both width and "point shape". I can't imagine why this information isn't available on the US site, but if you scroll down, you'll see that the Instinct line is designated as "Wide" and "Centre-shaped", which might be just what an almost-Morton's-toe type foot might require. https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climb/instinct-vs-r/ |
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Curious what others have to say about this as I have the exact same foot shape. TC Pros fit perfectly, but haven't found anything else where my middle toe can lay flat but my big toe isn't loose (katanas, katakis, anasazi lace and vcs, all no luck). Sounds like maybe I should try the skwamas... Anyone have the Instinct lace up? Care to share what kind of foot shape it fits well? |
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Mark Paulson wrote: Thanks, this is very helpful, didn't realise that about about the scarpa site either. Is the women's skwama much narrower in the toebox than the mens? What size are you in the phantom and skwama? , damn that toehook patch looks great :) |
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I don't remember noticing any difference in toe-box width between the W's and M's... I wear a 39.5 in the Skwama and a 9 in the Phantom |
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Mark Paulson wrote: is that 9 us mens sizing?(which is 42 eur on evolv sizing translation evolvsports.com/phantom-66-… ) |
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Yep |
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Jaxon Stuhr wrote: The instinct lace fits my foot pretty perfectly. I only tried on a pair of TC Pros for one pitch, but they were too narrow for me. I don't recall how my toes were - I remember thinking they were amazing for edging but that could've been from the stiffness. I have wide feet (2E) with a Roman shape (first three toes are the same length) and high arches. |