ditching the standard nuts in favor of just offsets and a few tricams?
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I have been carrying a set of black diamond stoppers from #13 red- the small blue size #3 I think. I have the option of tripples for small sized cams as well as tricams and now I also have the bd offset nuts from small red-purple. Have been debating ditching the non offset nuts all together with the exception of possibly the stuff smaller than the #7 small red. To me it seems like I can usually place a tricam either actively or passive or offset nut where I'm not able to get a cam to go and often for the bigger sizes I can get a cam most places that would accept a large nut. Also seems like nuts often don't offer a weight savings since they always need a runner and two biners as well as having to carry a couple to cover the range of a cam. The weight of the #12 red nut plus a runner and two carabiners is the same or a bit more than a single cam plus single biner. Anyone else ditch most of their standard nuts for the majority of the time and just stick with tricams and offset nuts? |
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This is what I do, no regrets! It probably depends a lot of what type of rock you are climbing, but for me I usually climb granite. I take a biner of a few tricams, a few offset nuts, and sometimes micronuts. I also take around some extra small cams for those places that "normal" nuts might have fit; faster to place and clean usually. |
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wisam wrote: Depends where you climb. Here in Red Rock I carry a full set of stoppers plus offsets and usually just a single set of cams for most multipitches. Rock here takes stoppers really well since there aren't many continuous cracks. Some climbs take more cams based off the rack recommendation and in that case I just being the offsets or the smaller half of my stoppers for the occasional placement. If that's the way your local area is then it's a good method. Don't bring gear if you don't find you use it enough. |
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wisam wrote: - i generally climb on offset nuts (and also most cams) in all sizes, small to medium work extremely well in pin scars (and other constrictions in general) - imho it is a mistake to prioritize light weight (nut+sling+2 biners weighing more than cam+single biner) too much. yes, that works for straight, inline cracks. however, if you're climbing anything that is wandering, the sling on the nut and additional biner are much more favorable in terms of rope drag vs. the cam and single biner. having spent a bunch of time in tuolumne this summer i can only say i'll take the extra weight of a few slings and biners any day if it reduces rope drag when i'm on some funky, slick knob 20' out ;-) |
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I've experimented with this because, frankly, ever since I bought lots of good small cams I just don't find myself reaching for nuts that often. Only way to find out if it works for you is to try it. Definitely don't need to be hauling around the big size 12-13 BD nuts, IMO. Always good to have some nuts or tricams if you think you might need to bail, though. |
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Maybe for now I'll leave the 12 and 13 behind and maybe the purple 11 as well in favor of the offset then keep everything grey and smaller for standard nuts as well as red-purple offsets. the three biggest sizes seem to get used infrequently |
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Standard nuts are cheaper to leave than Tricams in the event of a sudden bail, and wire swages never break down in sunlight like nylon or Dyneema slings do. It could still be worth trimming down in the way you are suggesting, especially at the larger end of the nut scale, where they overlap with the tricams. |
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Old5ten’s comment got me thinking about how much this could be dependent on the specific rock you’re on. Flared granite cracks might be great for offsets, but there are other places where standard nuts are nicer, or where I’d prioritize tricams over most other things. I tend to have a biner full of each in my pack and then pick and choose for each line before I leave the ground. |
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You should be extending your cams as well; now you have your weight-savings back. |
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Never wished for a regular nut instead of an offeset. But I climb granite. Nut booty is common, but when its an offeset nut there's cause for celebration. |
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save weight by ditching the tricams ;) after a lifetime of tricam use i ditched them in the tetons 2016.. somehow they never made it back on the rack and are not missed. |
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I too did the same thing. I carry a full set of metolious offset cames which fit in about half of typical nut placements, and are quicker and easier to remove for the 2nd. After picking up a set of offset stoppers I only carry "regular" nuts that are smaller than my offset stoppers. And i carry 1 pink tricam of course. Thinking about throwing in a hex or two above my stopper set. I climb mainly in the gunks and there is a lot of nut "threading" or slotting opportunities for large nuts. Typically a cam work, but sometimes throwing int a large nut overhead is just super bomber. |