Boston Gym Recommendaton: CRG vs. MetroRock vs. BKB

I'm moving to Medford through the end of the year and, surprisingly, will be roughly equidistant between the three aforementioned gyms. I've been to CRG before (and like it) but am curious about *your* experience. 

Which would you say has the best setting as it translates to bouldering outside? Best atmosphere (i.e., for things like 1) meeting partners to go outside, 2) vibe inside)? Best training setup (I know CRG has a Tension Board and MR maybe has something similar)?

Of course, there are some noticeable differences, such as price, and the fact that BKB only allows 90 minute pre-registered time slots (really?)... Also, I am intrigued by MR's adult climbing team. And yea yea, there are other threads about this on MP and Reddit, but a lot of them are a few years old. 

Comments, opinions, and snark are appreciated!

CRG (esp. cambridge) is the best for training and hard climbing imho. The setting is excellent and hard, there are a 40 degree Moonboard and an adjustable tension board, as well as tension and beastmaker hangboards and decent weight room. Also lots of strong climbers hang out there.

Plus you get access to all the other CRG locations if you want to change it up (watertown has a great lead wall).

I like metro rock.  Has all I'd ever want for training and great lead walls and fairly decent bouldering.  It isnt as "nice" as CRG, but I dont really care about how fancy a place looks on the inside....the quality of climbs are good.  Plus if you're coming from Medford it probably makes the most sense distance wise.  I'd say at least give it a try for a day 

Aaron G wrote:

Of course, there are st BKB only allows 90 minute pre-registered time slots (really?).

I think all gyms are requiring pre-registered sessions right now. CRGs are 2 hours long, you can only walk-in weekdays before 3.00.

https://patch.com/new-york/parkslope/brooklyn-boulders-staff-say-layoffs-were-retaliatory

depending on your political leanings, this could be make-or-break 

BKB is a shitshow, CRG Cambridge has the best bouldering (and doesn't soften grades much), Metro has the most interesting lead walls.

Rob D wrote:

depending on your political leanings, this could be make-or-break 

Interesting. I had no idea. Yea, I'd say on face value that rules BKB out.

B C wrote:

(4) does not offer an after-school climbing program; 

CRG cambridge explicitly doesn't allow kids to climb there - I think it's under 16 not allowed.

B C wrote:

Use the following criteria to select a gym: (1) actively gives back to outdoor crags in New England and lists monetary donations publicly; (2)  works to influence outdoor crag etiquette through informative passive and interactive programming and mentorship; (3) has a clear collaboration with the Access Fund; (4) does not offer an after-school climbing program; (5) has a policy for people caught wearing climbing shoes in the bathroom; and (6) hires staff that know the difference between a smear and a smudge.  

Do any of the gyms in the Greater Boston area really qualify by these standards, though? 

Thanks for all your feedback! If anyone actually cares, it sounds like CRG will be the winner. With that said, I'll check out MetroRock too, in order to do my own first hand research.

Climb on!

Been a member at all 3, CRG Cambridge is my favorite & current gym since I mostly boulder. No kids allowed at that location. Loved MetroRock as well but there are a lot of kids running around sometimes. The climbing teams end up dominating certain bouldering areas for a good amount of time on their practice nights.

Aaron G wrote:

Thanks for all your feedback! If anyone actually cares, it sounds like CRG will be the winner. With that said, I'll check out MetroRock too, in order to do my own first hand research.

Climb on!

Im new to MetroRock (started climbing outdoors in july and now starting indoors) and I'm from the Medford area, would gladly partner up with you if you'd like someone to check it out with!

Aaron G wrote:

Thanks for all your feedback! If anyone actually cares, it sounds like CRG will be the winner. With that said, I'll check out MetroRock too, in order to do my own first hand research.

Climb on!

Im new to MetroRock (started climbing outdoors in july and now starting indoors) and I'm from the Medford area, would gladly partner up with you if you'd like someone to check it out with!

Big Red wrote:

CRG cambridge explicitly doesn't allow kids to climb there - I think it's under 16 not allowed.

stiff setting, full fitness center, no kid's birthday parties or daycare are significant contributing factors toward making crg cambridge the best climbing gym in boston. Also there's a sauna. I used to go there back when they still opened early in the morning on the weekdays- really enjoyable part of my life.

CRG Cambridge has the most serious vibe for training. They also have a crack machine (shhhh) which is great.