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Locking carabiner with the thinnest narrowest nose

Original Post
Charlie Bondurant · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 40

Looking for an auto-locker with a thin nose for my PAS. Any recommendations?

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
Charlie Bondurant wrote:

Looking for an auto-locker with a thin nose for my PAS. Any recommendations?

Learn how to clove hitch?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

Elerid Pure Slider

Grivel Plume

DMM Shadow 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
John Clark wrote:

Learn how to clove hitch?

How does that work when using your PAS as a rappel tether?

But, yeah, for securing yourself to the anchor on the way up, just clove hitch with the rope.

Tyler S · · SLC · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 5
Joe Croson · · Troy, NY · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Camp photon

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
FrankPS wrote:

How does that work when using your PAS as a rappel tether?

But, yeah, for securing yourself to the anchor on the way up, just clove hitch with the rope.

Use a double length sling as your rappel tether. Less adjustable, but if you are more interested in weight savings than comfort, it is much better.

That said, I have recently been considering taking a pas on things with 1000’ or more or rappelling again.

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

John. We’re not talking about what to use to attach our harness to a carabiner. We’re discussing which carabiner has the most narrow nose. 

Pretty straightforward question. Stay on topic or don’t post. 

Yukon Cornelius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Another vote for the pure slider. It's not quite exactly a regular auto locker, but it's teeny tiny and light, and perfect for stuff like this. I use one for my prussik

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 669

It's amazing how many people don't even read the post before replying. He asked about auto-lockers.

The Pure Slider is probably the skinniest and for me the easiest to use one-handed. The gate does get sticky though, but with practice it's easy to get it to reliably close.

Cam Brown · · Portland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 150

I really like the Petzl Sm’D auto locker for that purpose. Small, light and really easy to use one handed. 

Ben Podborski · · Canadian Rockies · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 10

Another recommendation for the Edelrid Pure Slider. Snaps shut to lock -- you'll need to have the gate mostly or totally open for it to reliably 'snap' locked on its own

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

Slider awesome!

Dustin Helmer · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 32
Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Dustin Helmer wrote:

Play around with this: 

https://weighmyrack.com/carabiner?f[]=field_weight:%5B19%20TO%2046%5D&f[]=field_cbnr_locking:auto&f[]=field_cbnr_locking:screw 

That won't help with the specs that OP is looking for.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

Petzl SmD Autolocker is perfect imo. The Edelrid slider sticks constantly and completely negates the point of an auto locking carabiner. Half the time you have to fiddle with it longer than a regular locker just to get it to shut. The Petzl SmD is the smoothest autolocker I’ve ever used and doesn’t seem to get sticky from dirt and debris as easily as others.

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440

Most CAMP biners are very narrow. 

Dustin Helmer · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 32
Fail Falling wrote:

That won't help with the specs that OP is looking for.

Ahh you're right. Seeing every key lock autolocking carabiner on the market right now will do nothing for OP. Listening to randos on the internet talk about screwgates instead of autolockers is a better option.

Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 936

Make me the 6th person to suggest the Edlelrid Pure Slider. Great carabiner for a PAS. Light, fast, effective. I like to use a second one for my water bottle. Haven't had the jamming issue that some have noted. Wonder if rock type might be an issue that contributes to that? ie, sandstone (lots of grit) vs basalt (no grit)?  

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

CAMP Photon locker has a very thin nose and is super light, around the same weight as an Edelrid Pure Slider.

Greg Sidberry · · High Desert, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,353

I use Petzl SMD for pas / tether and grivel plume for prussiks / roll n locks. SMD is good size and weight. like the plume ( smallest / lightest autolocker I could find), but wouldn't recommend it for a pas because of the double gate

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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