Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Psychological Test Pieces
|
Hey guys, I want to compile a list of psychological test pieces YDS 10+, V8+ worth traveling for, multi-pitch or otherwise well known. I'm assuming most cliffs have their test pieces but I'm looking for the best of the best. Besides all of the climbing the northeast has to offer: |
|
From what I understand, Childhood's End (5.12- R) is THE psychological slab test piece in Colorado and is also in the running for one of the greatest route descriptions on MP. |
|
The famous David Breashears mind control route in Eldo: Perilous Journey https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105750580/perilous-journey |
|
Ah yes! Childhood’s End is definitely one I’ve heard of. That David route looks good as well. Keep them coming! |
|
Sunshine, Tuolumne. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110706789/sunshine Solitary Confinement, Tuolumne. A MP search isn't going to do you much good for California at least, since many psychological test pieces are not on here at all. Probably half the routes in Tuolumne belong on the list, with only a handful of those on MP. Plenty in the Valley as well. Also note that there are a number of what would be multipitch routes that are free solos with no opportunities for belays (e.g. Solitary Confinement). |
|
I feel like evilution and the Peabody boulder is the standard of scary boulders. |
|
Idy The Edge 11a R Burning Down the House 12b R |
|
Tuolumne: Guardians of the Galaxy and Silver Slippers on Lamb Dome are both full on X rated. Tune Up on Dozier is R/X and was put up as a tune up for You Asked for It by Bachar and Kauk. |
|
Never been on this climb, don't even know anyone who has been on it. But I came across the description for Hall of Mirrors on this site awhile back and it sounds like it fits the bill. |
|
[Redacted] at [Redacted] is by far, hands down the ultimate psychological test piece. It is a life changing experience on par with attaining cosmic consciousness |
|
“The maker” 5.10b in the CMC Valley Maybe not as gnarley as some of the other contenders but at an easy 5.10, it rarely sees ascents and according to “banff rock” is one of the most sought after routes in the bow valley |
|
The coveted Toe Jam in Hidden Valley Campground |
|
The Edge/Turbo Flange |
|
The Gunks has a lot of heady hard stuff, but the one that stands out to me (a weakling who will probably never lead this) as a classic is To Be Or Not To Be (5.12aX). |
|
Plenty of runout horror shows here in North Carolina, especially at places like Stone Mountain, Laurel Knob, and Whiteside Mountain. Hone Ranger (5.11a/b X) is touted as the tallest, straightest line in NC, if not the East Coast. |
|
Stratosfear in the Black |
|
Ring that bell in Bell’s canyon UT |
|
Carson Kodas Arete at Courtright Reservoir is a spectacular pitch, although it's kind of an unsung hero in the world of high end (quality wise) psychological test pieces. Perfect rock, airy, to say the least, and heady enough to keep the riff-raff off. .11bR. It's "R" to the max. While the crux would be a real whipper, biffing it on the move to get the second bolt would be disastrous. Spoogy .10c. This pic doesn't do the route justice, and the camera angle exaggerates the run-out by about a body length, but you get the idea. Don't f'n peel.  From below:  For the off-width aficionados (mos def not me) there's a wide one to the left called Organ Grinder. |
|
In my local area Marbleous (5.13a R) and Bozo A.K.A. The Brothel (5.12a R)/East Face Of Castle Dome (5.10d) on Castle Dome. Castle Crags is scary to follow! https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/106528938 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105736315/the-dike-route-aka-east-face I think this deserves a spot as well: https://www.climbing.com/news/honnold-and-stanhope-interview-southern-belle-5-12d-r/ |
|
perilous journey isn't in eldo (it's on eldorado mountain) you can aid the crux on childhood's end stratosfear - now that would be a psychological test piece in eldo, the platte, and the black there's a ton of them |
|
How about The Prophet 5.13d R ? A cool write up about it in rock and ice |
