Peenuts as RPs
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Do DMM peenuts replace RPs for a trad rack. I have a set of them and want to do routes that require RPs. Will I be able to use them or will I need brass nuts |
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Get DMM IMPs |
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If I'm not mistaken, IMPs are identical to the old RPs, just made by DMM. They're straight sided. When a guidebook says "RPs" that typically means any micro nut, not necessarily an actual RP. Peanuts can definitely be used as a substitute for RPs, they're awesome pieces. However, many climbers (myself included) prefer brass nuts in these micro sizes to the aluminum Peanuts. Brass nuts are a little less durable (the cables are soldered on instead of threaded through holes so you have to be more careful when cleaning them) but they 'bite' the rock better and are less prone to shearing out. And they are often rated higher for a given size since the wire doesn't need to be threaded through a hole, so you can use a larger wire for the same size head. Lastly, most brass nuts are made in sizes smaller than the smallest Peanut. That being said, I wouldn't have a ton of confidence in any nut smaller than the red Peanut. My personal favorite micro nut is the DMM brass offset. But you should be fine for now with the Peanuts. |
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Unless they've changed the design since I had them, Peenuts have a different length-to-width ratio than the RPs and other brazed micros. That makes them less useful in my experience; thin cracks tend to be irregular and it's less common that you can get the full depth of the Peenut in there. |
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For ultra thin cracks, RP’s really work well. I have a RP size #0 that I never used. I am guessing very rare. Also own a size #0 Crack-In-Up which was also never used. The thing can cut you like a knife and would destroy clothing |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Good point, RPs (and brass offsets) are narrower than Peanuts |
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Sometimes yes, sometimes no. I wasn't initially impressed by the peanuts but they've proven useful enough times that I keep them around. Not a true substitute for straight-sided micro brass nuts though, and harder to place. |
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The grey peanut is a keeper! |
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Metolius astronuts have the same shape as their curve nuts. They bite super hard, if you take anything more than a small fall on one there's a good chance of it welding but for small pieces like that I'd prefer them "one time use" over the alternative. |