Mountain Project Logo

Peenuts as RPs

Original Post
Kole H · · Denver · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Do DMM peenuts replace RPs for a trad rack. I have a set of them and want to do routes that require RPs. Will I be able to use them or will I need brass nuts

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,687

Get DMM IMPs

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,070

If I'm not mistaken, IMPs are identical to the old RPs, just made by DMM.  They're straight sided.  

When a guidebook says "RPs" that typically means any micro nut, not necessarily an actual RP.  Peanuts can definitely be used as a substitute for RPs, they're awesome pieces.  However, many climbers (myself included) prefer brass nuts in these micro sizes to the aluminum Peanuts.  Brass nuts are a little less durable (the cables are soldered on instead of threaded through holes so you have to be more careful when cleaning them) but they 'bite' the rock better and are less prone to shearing out.  And they are often rated higher for a given size since the wire doesn't need to be threaded through a hole, so you can use a larger wire for the same size head.  Lastly, most brass nuts are made in sizes smaller than the smallest Peanut.  That being said, I wouldn't have a ton of confidence in any nut smaller than the red Peanut.  

My personal favorite micro nut is the DMM brass offset.   But you should be fine for now with the Peanuts.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

Unless they've changed the design since I had them, Peenuts have a different length-to-width ratio than the RPs and other brazed micros. That makes them less useful in my experience; thin cracks tend to be irregular and it's less common that you can get the full depth of the Peenut in there.

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,011

For ultra thin cracks, RP’s really work well.

I have a RP size #0 that I never used.

I am guessing very rare.

Also own a size #0 Crack-In-Up which was also never used. The thing can cut you like a knife and would destroy clothing

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,070
Gunkiemike wrote:

Unless they've changed the design since I had them, Peenuts have a different length-to-width ratio than the RPs and other brazed micros. That makes them less useful in my experience; thin cracks tend to be irregular and it's less common that you can get the full depth of the Peenut in there.

Good point, RPs (and brass offsets) are narrower than Peanuts

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,113

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. I wasn't initially impressed by the peanuts but they've proven useful enough times that I keep them around. Not a true substitute for straight-sided micro brass nuts though, and harder to place.

Karl Kvashay · · Northeast PA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 230

The grey peanut is a keeper!

Evan Erwin · · Fayetteville, NC · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 125

Metolius astronuts have the same shape as their curve nuts. They bite super hard, if you take anything more than a small fall on one there's a good chance of it welding but for small pieces like that I'd prefer them "one time use" over the alternative.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Peenuts as RPs"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.