Help! Five Ten Anasazi Lace

Hey!

I’m an intermediate climber and I just got new 5.10 Anasazi Lace’s in the mail. They feel a little bit big, but I’m considering keeping them depending on how much they stretch...

So. For those of you that have owned recent 5.10 Anasazi Laces, how much do these shoes stretch?

Also, one more note.

My toes are touching the front. I can feel the front well, but my toes arnt curled almost at all. For these shoes is this too lose? I plan on climbing lots of crack, but also a variety of others including slab.

They don’t stretch at all.  So if the fit you’ve got right now is what you’re looking for, stick with them.  The heel tension will ease a bit and the rubber will soften as it breaks in (this is when you get the best performance IMO, especially for slab), which will make it more comfortable, but it will not stretch.  Personally I like them a little tighter (toes curled) as a performance edging shoe, but for cracks this sounds perfect.

They will stretch out a bit.  Having a comfy shoe for cracks or long trad routes is not a bad thing.   

I buy mine for edging performance with toes curled. I downsize them accordingly. They stretch about half a size. Toes flat and touching sound great for crack climbing.

Mine have stretched very little, so I wouldn’t expect them to change too much in length. As others noted, they will soften with time. 

Thanks everyone! This helps a lot!

Mine stretched a full size at least

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Sorry but I disagree 1000%. Mine went from fitting perfectly to being loose and floppy after a long season. And that was already sized down half a size smaller than what I wear in a Anasazi VCS.

Weird.  Definitely wasn’t my experience.  The rubber definitely got way softer and the heel tension chilled out but my toes are in the same position as when I bought them even after two resoles and probably 2 or 3 years.  How did you size them relative to your street shoes?  Mine are fairly tight.

I wear a size down for all day performance. Snug but comfy for many pitches. Really low angle I might pop the heels out here and there or size up a half size. I measure a 12 -12.25 on a branock device. Wear size 11 in the pinks. Kinda clunky and feel a little to tight at first but after some pitches as they soften kinda mold to your foot and are comfy for long stretches.

Julian H wrote:

The tighter the shoes the more they stretch and wear out faster. Also, shoes don't stretch length, most of the stretch is width. Look how much tighter are the lace on the old pair than the newer pair.  

Here they are on my feet:

Worth noting that they’re different feet and I had to replace the laces.  The old pair are also way lower profile for some reason - I think when you sweat in them the upper conforms a bit and actually shrinks.  You’re right that the right one looks a bit tighter.

Ted Pinson wrote:

Here they are on my feet:

Worth noting that they’re different feet and I had to replace the laces.  The old pair are also way lower profile for some reason - I think when you sweat in them the upper conforms a bit and actually shrinks.  You’re right that the right one looks a bit tighter.

I have quite a few pairs of the pinks and I think what you are noticing in the tongue is the slightly older (possibly pre-adidas) pinks vs. the new ones you can buy now.  I have probably four pairs in my closet and while I don't really know exactly which older ones are which, the brand new pairs I have definitely have what appear to be longer tongues.  Seems like a weird thing to change up. 

I wear a 11.5 street shoe and buy my Pinks the same.  They are snug when new but soon become pretty comfy.  They are my all day shoe for the Sierra or any route I will have my shoes on most of the time.  For a more high performance shoe I use the new Grandstone in a 11.5, it is super tight at the start but after several days they soften up but still are snug for great edging.  They have a pretty downturned toe and concave sole but after a season they soften and perform more like the Pinks.   I I have several pair of shoes depending on the day or the climb.  I also have arthritis pretty bad in my big toe so like a stiff shoe.   The Blancos were the best, wish they still made those but was able to buy several pair before they vanished.

Rob D wrote:

I have quite a few pairs of the pinks and I think what you are noticing in the tongue is the slightly older (possibly pre-adidas) pinks vs. the new ones you can buy now.  I have probably four pairs in my closet and while I don't really know exactly which older ones are which, the brand new pairs I have definitely have what appear to be longer tongues.  Seems like a weird thing to change up. 

Pretty sure both are post-Adidas.  I didn’t notice any difference in the tongues so I’m not sure what you’re referring to.  By lower profile I meant in the toebox...how high it is.  I think the upper shrinks a bit after sweating in them and also the shoe will get smaller as the sole wears down.  Really comes in handy for jamming finger cracks, they’re usually my go-to for that.

My Anasazis stretched some, if they didn't I would have to return them.  I wore them around the house until they felt good.  These are my best shoes. 

I believe there's 2 versions of the Anasazi Lace being sold right now, they look almost identical except for where the stealth c4 logos are. I have a pair in size 11.5 and it stretched 1/2 to a full size, now I need socks with them. I also had a pair of 10.5 which didn't stretch at all and was a totally different fit and feel, really narrow. I've also seen discrepancies in their size conversions. Some listed as 11 are 45, others are 44.5 

I have these shoes too.  I found that when its hot out and my feet are hot, than they feel much tighter and I want to take them off.  If its not too hot, then I can wear them the whole time during my climbing session.  

Russ Walling wrote:

It has to do with weight and foot sweat too.  If you are a midget (can WE still say that?) with feet that don’t sweat, I bet you’ll get almost no stretch over the life of the shoe. If you are a tub of goo and pimp the toe cheese, yer shit is going to stretch (and have massive rubber wear) in as soon as one weekend.  Thus, YMMV

Midget climbers are so lucky.  They get to climb twice as much as everyone else. 

Preeti P wrote:

I have these shoes too.  I found that when its hot out and my feet are hot, than they feel much tighter and I want to take them off.  If its not too hot, then I can wear them the whole time during my climbing session.  

This may be less about the shoes and more about your feet swelling when you're hot / dehydrated. 

Jared Chrysostom wrote:

This may be less about the shoes and more about your feet swelling when you're hot / dehydrated. 

Are you calling my feet fat?!?!?!  haha  

Yes, I agree. Fit changes based on conditions.  

Preeti P wrote:

Are you calling my feet fat?!?!?!  haha  

Yes, I agree. Fit changes based on conditions.  

Situationally fat.