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Don’t understand Shelf Road hype

Original Post
Kole H · · Denver · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

After going to shelf road I don’t understand it’s place as one of the most well known sport climbing areas. Is there a reason it’s so often mentioned. It could just be because I don’t climb hard enough to get in to the good stuff (climb in the 10-11 range). That seemed to be the problem with rifle.

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

I hear ya. I think it’s the fact that I can climb there all winter in a t-shirt or maybe a long sleeve t-shirt. And 1,000 routes, some of which are actually awesome, is a bonus. 

pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71
Kole H wrote:

After going to shelf road I don’t understand it’s place as one of the most well known sport climbing areas. Is there a reason it’s so often mentioned. It could just be because I don’t climb hard enough to get in to the good stuff (climb in the 10-11 range). That seemed to be the problem with rifle.

No, Shelf is just fine at 10s and 11s--I think most people may say those are its best grades (although it has many good 12s, not really sure about harder routes, it is not known for that, with maybe a few exceptions).  Not sure why you don't like it, but that's not the reason.  Just don't go there if you don't like it, problem solved.   One thing though that be sort of what you're looking for:  Shelf has much better winter climbing opportunities than most places in Colo, so if you want to climb here in the winter, that's the obvious place to go.  If you prefer NTM, knock yourself out (and I've gone to NTM many times in the winter--not great climbing in general, but it serves a purpose.)  Edit--I see above poster made same comment about weather, I'll just leave this up for what it's worth, that's prob the answer to the OP's question.

Albert B · · Mammoth Lakes · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 42

1. Make an unprompted post about how I don't like a crag that is objectively good.

2. ....

3. Profit!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

I don't understand it either. Shelf blows chunks and sucks rocks. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Kole H wrote:

... It could just be because I don’t climb hard enough to get in to the good stuff (climb in the 10-11 range). That seemed to be the problem with rifle.

Yes, nailed it.  the best climbing is in the harder grades.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Total choss pile and clown show infested with ATV rednecks and mounds of dog shit. Always too hot or too cold. No redeeming factors for Shelf.

North Table and Clear Creek are much better options with less driving. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
slim wrote:

Yes, nailed it.  the best climbing is in the harder grades.

11c-12b is best there.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

11c-12b is best there.

Least worst

Dane B · · Chuff City · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

I don't think you are going to have a great time there if you aren't solid on 11a/b type limestone routes

Kole H · · Denver · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I went there in peak summer heat so that could explain something. Also how is limestone climbing different than other rock types.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

how often are you pulling on monos when climbing granite/basalt/quartzite/gneiss/etc?  not very often...  it actually probably makes more of a difference for your feet - pockets are harder to track and you need to be more accurate with your feet than when you are just sliding your feet down a wall onto edges/jugs.

if you climb at shelf in the summer you need to get up early and take advantage of cool temps and shade, and then find shade in the afternoon.  the middle of the day would be death unless you find some shade.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Frank Stein wrote:

North Table and Clear Creek are much better options...

Lolz, you ARE a schmuck...

Krzysztof Danielewicz · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

I agree with schmuck, Shelf is a rotten chosspile with horrible climbing, no camping, terrible place to climb. Anyone reading this should definitely climb at Table instead, especially in the winter months where the climbing really isn't any good at all and you definitely can't spend all day climbing perfect crimps and pockets in a tank top in December.

Nick Spitznagle · · Denver, Co · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 128

Maybe you don't like climbing as much as you thought? Or not with psyched people? Shelf is pretty great for pushing your limits too

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Nick Spitznagle wrote:

Maybe you don't like climbing as much as you thought? Or not with psyched people? Shelf is pretty great for pushing your limits too

That’s because climbing sucks. Definitely no fun, especially at Shelf. 

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300
Kole H wrote:

After going to shelf road I don’t understand it’s place as one of the most well known sport climbing areas. Is there a reason it’s so often mentioned.

"Most well known" in what country? If you're talking Front Range, yeah I'd agree, most climbers probably have heard of Shelf. But if you're talking about the entire US, or even the world... I've never heard of Shelf Road when I was living and climbing on the East Coast. I doubt climbers in other continents are like "we HAVE TO fly to Denver and climb at Shelf! That place has such amazing limestone!" For the Front Range climbers, It is a great place to go in winter due to the warmer temps and many south facing cliffs, and there are some fun routes. But overall, the rock quality is really mediocre.

Now this, this is quality limestone I'd fly all the way around the world to climb:

Brendan A · · Golden · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 115

Agreed! Shelf is the worse. Choss filled/ cacti infested/ animal house. No one should go this winter (especially January- March). Again, tell all your friends how bad it is and to avoid the place at all cost. 

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516
Frank Stein wrote:

That’s because climbing sucks. Definitely no fun, especially at Shelf. 

Climbing does suck, and really, so does existing. I mean, come on.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Don't understand Shelf Rd hype

Don't understand Table mountain hype

Don't understand Eldo hype

Don't understand Vedauwoo hype (I don't like rough and OW)

Don't understand Indian Creek hype (cracks are too hard)

Don't understand limestone hype (it hurts my fingers)

Don't understand overhang hype (I'm too weak)

Don't understand runout slab climbing

Don't understand bouldering hype

Don't understand trad climbing hype.

Don't understand winter mountaineering hype

Don't understand climbing competition hype

Don't understand free soloing hype

Don't understand ice climbing hype

Don't understand K-pop hype

Don't understand (fill in the blank)

What else can we complain about?

Whah.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

I don’t know. Complaining is pretty cool!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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