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Recommended Trad Rock Shoes
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Recommended Rock Climbing shoes for all-day multi-pitch climbing, not doing anything overly crazy. Just looking for some shoes that won't kill my feet after being in them all day. |
Gary Stoker wrote: TC pros, 5.10 anasazi, scarpa maestro |
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Mythos |
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Take a look at Evolv Nighthawks if Evolv shoes fit you well. Leather upper lace ups, 79 MSRP. |
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Butora Altura |
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5.10 Moccasyms are great. Easy on and off. The unlined leather will stretch to conform to your feet. It may take a while to get used to a less supportive shoe. I am on my 6th pair. |
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Scarpa helix for me. They fit comfy like sneakers for wearing all day but have a nice stiff edge. You could even heel hook if so inclined. +1 for evolv nighthawks from a comfort perspective, the rubber on mine just wore out crazy fast. |
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Any non-aggressive shoe that fits. |
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Comfortable shoes that you are okay abusing. |
Matt Himmelstein wrote: This^. Specific recommendations from strangers are almost worthless. |
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The ones that fit your feet the best without any empty space. If you're asking about multi-day, multi-pitch climbing I'm guessing you already have a fair number of pitches under your belt to know what makes any one shoe better than another for the specific character of a pitch. |
Jason4Too wrote: I've done multi-pitch mixed climbing in heavy mountaineering boots, and crampons but not regular trad rock climbing needing rock shoes. |
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I'd usually say that it's a bold move to step off the ground for a multi day big wall adventure without having a lot of trad climbing experience but if you're already climbing multi pitch mixed ice routes then I'm convinced you're bold. How much time do you have to prep for your adventure? Is your budget flexible enough that you can try multiple pairs of shoes before your adventure? I'd recommend trying some shoes (or spending some time on SizeSquirrel given the current restrictions) and getting a handful of pitches that are close to what you anticipate you'll find on your objective. This will give you a chance to get the shoes broken in and to make sure you're comfortable in them. A lot of people that I know have TC Pros in multiple sizes; aggressively tight for technically difficult climbing near their limit, comfortably snug for challenging days, able to fit a sock for long days in the alpine. Personally I've sized my TC Pros to be comfortably snug and I also have Katakis for harder climbing in the finger crack size or Skwamas for steeper face climbing in an even tighter fit. I hope this helps! Good luck on your objective. |
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I guess I should have specified I'm not spending the night on the climb, lol Just going to be climbing for multiple days doing multi-pitch each day possibly on different routes. I'm not heading off to half dome or anything. Funny thing is that I had bought both the Helix and the Mythos awhile back but never went out rock climbing in them. I think I'll be climbing for 4 days. Neither one of those shoes seems overly comfortable. Are rock climbing shoes usually a sufferfest? |
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I don't know anyone that has thought of their first pair of rock shoes as "comfortable". If they did then they quickly realized they don't perform well in that size. My usual advice for someone getting their first rock shoe is to expect discomfort and don't accept pain. Also it's normal for someone to buy their first pair of shoes thinking they have bought them aggressively downsized only to decide that they are actually comfortable all-day shoes after a couple of months or even weeks. Mythos have a huge following and is a good shoe. They'll stretch considerably after a couple of days of climbing, it's hard to know what to expect of them (or nearly any leather climbing shoe) your first time putting them on. I'd suggest that you try to get more mileage in the shoes that you have if they don't hurt before buying another pair. |
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the mythos will stretch out a good bit to fit your foot, give them a day or two (can even wear them around the house). make sure your foot fits flat in the shoe (toes touching the end is ok) vs. toes all curled up. loosen up the factory lacing down by the toebox, they come laced up pretty tight. |
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5.10 Anasazi Lace. Buy them snug; not painful. Will be comfortable after short break-in. My go-to. Wear them all day. All this depends on whether this shoe fits your foot! |
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I’d say street sized TC’s are the way and the light for all day comfort. They’ll climb as hard as you want. |
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Well after wearing the Mythos around the house a bunch yesterday, they are starting to feel more "comfortable", lol. Better than when I first put them on. I think after wearing these down I'll get the TC pros. |
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The JB is a real-deal trad shoe, meant for long routes, off-width, multi-pitch climbs and all day comfort. The Legend is a bit sportier, but also a great choice for trad. If you're not doing off-widths, you might consider the Aztec, a great all-around and super-comfortable option. Whatever brand or model you choose, I'd recommend trying on a few pairs. A good fit should feel tight but comfortable with no "hot spots". Pain is a sign of improper fitting. Remember... "You'll Climb Better If Your Shoes Are Comfortable!" |
Dario Piana wrote: These look really nice, but they also look like copies of other brands for higher prices |
