Climbing the Grand Teton in September - Typical Conditions

I plan on potentially climbing the Grand Teton around 6-8 September (Labor Day timeframe). Trying to make it a 1-day round trip. What are the typical route conditions like on the OS route around this date? Is it likely to be glazed in ice by this time, or is it constantly varied from year to year? Just trying to get an idea if I would be better off going somewhere else and come back next year in mid-August for an attempt. Not looking to use crampons, would like to bring a minimal rack and trail runners. I will be calling the ranger station a few days before to check on conditions before I commit to driving there; are they generally a good source for route conditions? Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Yah never know. Just stick to your plan of calling the rangers first and being flexible.  Could be bluebird and dry, could be 8 inches of snow....

Hmm....my thoughts are that "typically", there will be a wet-ish storm between now and the time of your trip.  With the heat of the summer waning, the days getting shorter, the season starting to turn into fall...any late season storm will produce icy conditions up high.  OS doesn't see the sun that the upper Exum does.  Not that the approach to the Exum won't be affected too (and you'd still have to get down safely).

Sometimes it burns off, sometimes it doesn't.  

Rangers are going to be very conservative in their advice.  They for sure wouldn't know your level of savvy in the alpine.

Back up plan would be prudent.

Went last year Labor Day weekend (plan to again this year) and conditions were good. Think we climbed most the day in a light puffy/shell though as temps combined with wind were little less than ideal. But as you mention, each year can be different up there

R K wrote:

If you insist on car-to-car, you need to appropriately acclimate (+24 hrs) and leave leave lupin meadows midnight. This trail is serious and there is 7k ft of vert to gain in a short period of time. 

If you're in good shape and ok with elevation, leaving at midnight will likely be way overkill.  Assuming you don't get off trail, you'll probably make it to the lower saddle in ~4hr. That will leave you with 2+ hours of hanging out in the elements and at elevation before you continue up (I guess if you're doing to OS you could just keep going up to the upper saddle).

I made this mistake when I did full Exum. We made it to the start of the climb in ~3.5 hours and then waited, sweaty and cold, for almost two hours before we could see enough to find the first pitch.

Made the already long day, much longer than it needed to be.

we hit the parking lot at 1am ish and on trail closer to 2am..  cooked breakfast etc. 

R K wrote:

Telling somebody that they can leave at 2am, just because it works for you, could push a non-local into dangerous summit timing.

3.5 hrs to Wall Street is not likely achievable for a midwestern. Unless they’re an athlete. 

I said roughly 4 hours to lower saddle and just wanted to point out that being up there sweaty at 4am might not be such a good idea.  If you have doubts about your ability, sure, leave at 12. Just make sure to pace yourself. If your at the caves before 3, I'd probably take a break there instead of continuing to the lower saddle (unless your doing the OS; just keep going and make summit shortly after sunrise).

Mark Verosky wrote:

I plan on potentially climbing the Grand Teton around 6-8 September (Labor Day timeframe). 

"I will be calling the ranger station a few days before to check on conditions before I commit to driving there; are they generally a good source for route conditions?"

It is certainly helpful to some degree to know conditions a few days ahead and follow the weather; however, if the weather is unstable then conditions can change hourly so don't put to much faith in reports on conditions from anyone (or the forecast). As for the rangers being a good source of information on conditions, they have mixed record. It is certainly best to call them directly. Their blog reported dry conditions during the last month even when the place was lathered in ice. You can also call a commercial guiding service. Asking about recent conditions on MP can be hit-or-miss but it's another good place to start. More than likely, I will be up there on the 5th or 6th.

"Trying to make it a 1-day round trip bringing a minimal rack and trail runners."

People do this all the time. What time you leave depends upon the weather, personal preferences, and your fitness. Very rarely do climbers hauling climbing gear make the Lower Saddle in under 3.5 hours. Most take longer, much longer. Just depends. I meet parties that leave Lupine Meadows at 10:30 p.m. for a next-day morning ascent on a "1-day" climb—people who know how long it takes them to reach the saddle with climbing gear). Those with camping & climbing gear can easily take 7 hours or longer. Too many factors for anyone here to know how fast you will move or the best time for you to leave.

"conditions....constantly varied from year to year? "

YES. Day to Day, Hour to Hour. More likely in September as everyone has stated. if you are worried about the possibility of poor conditions, seriously consider going elsewhere.

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Lastly, it's A L P I N E mountaineering at upper elevations and even the smallest patch of verglas can appear out of nowhere on a sunny warm day and cause mayhem.

If you decide to visit, there are always other objectives at lower elevations that provide outstanding climbing if conditions take a turn for the worse up high.

Not much to add to what others have said. However, my two cents....like with any forecast, take this one with a gran of salt, but it seems to me that is the most accurate: https://www.mountainweather.com/jackson-hole/jackson-hole-forecast/

(Not too many folks from out of state know about it.)

Memorial Day weekend last year was pretty splitter: did the N Ridge of the Middle and Teewinot with bluebird skies and minimal wind...but a snow storm rolled the week after or so. Anything can happen...

Cheers and good luck.

Lower Saddle Forecast says that snow is a possibility Sunday (30th) through Wednesday. Expect some ice over Labor Day weekend.

UPDATE: The forecast has changed. Looks like you might get by with good conditions over Labor Day weekend. 

Saturday Sept 5th: Sunny, with a high near 64. That's HOT.

Looks like it’s snowing up high currently...I don’t think it’s supposed to amount to much, but hopefully with those temps any accumulation won’t stick around for long

Spoke with a ranger this morning. Exum ridge should dry out pretty quickly. OS might have some ice/verglass that lingers, but not enough to warrant ice axe/traction

Conditions looking pretty nice overall.   Guess I will see some of you out there!

With the wealth of knowledge in this thread, may I hijack for a moment for a question that’s likely been answered.....

for the raps off the OS what god forsaken length rope should I bring?  I literally have a 40, 60, and 80.  Can I tag line my 40 and make it?

Thanks and sorry for a question I know had been answered and has nothing to do with weather.

Id still like a high 5 on the summit if you are up there Tuesday after Labor Day. 

Dan Cooksey wrote:

With the wealth of knowledge in this thread, may I hijack for a moment for a question that’s likely been answered.....

for the raps off the OS what god forsaken length rope should I bring?  I literally have a 40, 60, and 80.  Can I tag line my 40 and make it?

Thanks and sorry for a question I know had been answered and has nothing to do with weather.

Id still like a high 5 on the summit if you are up there Tuesday after Labor Day. 

For the lower rap you’ll need a 60 from the slung block or an 80 from the bolts (or a 40 with a 40m tag line)

Andrew Mayer wrote:

For the lower rap you’ll need a 60 from the slung block or an 80 from the bolts (or a 40 with a 40m tag line)

You’re the man Andrew Mayer \,,/ rock on

Snow in the forecast Monday night now, so heads up.

On the Grand or the Enclosure?  Or...both? 

Never heard of Mr. Glass.  Have any more details?

I attempted Root Canal a bunch of years ago over Tgivving, that was WAY to late in the year for that one then, headed for the High Route this season tho, should be good in sept/oct!

Gee Dubble wrote:

Rap from both anchors, south, 27m and 29m

You can really get down from the bolts with a 60m?  (Assuming you rap skiers L/south).  Someone once told me a 70m doesn’t reach and I guess I blindly believed them ever since