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Climbing/mountaineering backpack recommendations
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Dear Mountain Project users, I’m in need of a new backpack that can do it all. From use at the crag to big epics I’m looking for the silver bullet backpack that can take care of all of my needs. I’d like something in the 40-45L range and ideally <$150. Any tips on where to look, what to buy, or overall things for me to be aware of? Anything is appreciated |
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My do-it-all pack in that size is the BD Mission 45. I use it for cragging, mountaineering, ice climbing approaches, and even ski touring. Removing the lid and cranking down the compression straps helps when carrying smaller loads. Ice tool and crampon carry in the winter time doubles as trekking pole and guidebook/snacks carry in the summer time. It has an expandable collar and a lid for carrying larger amounts of stuff, but I rarely use them. Perhaps that indicates that you could get away with a smaller size... |
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Durable, light, inexpensive. Pick two of the three. You really are looking for a silver bullet pack. The BD Mission series is okay, but I don’t think they carry that well, having used both the 75 and 45. The BD Speed series is also pretty good, but nothing spectacular. The price point for those BD packs is hard to argue with though. MEC in Canada used to make a similar pack that carried far better, might check them out. The Blue Ice packs are pretty good and pretty close to your price range. I find that I want very different things in a crag pack vs a “big epic” pack. I’d rather have a crag pack that’s heavy and durable because I know I’ll beat it up. Vs a “big epic” pack I care about carrying comfort and weight more than durability. Course that also depends on what your idea of a “big epic” looks like Are we talking a 30-hour push on Cerro Torre or a car-to-car on the N Ridge of Mt Stuart or inadvertently getting benighted on the local 5-pitch route because you started late? “Epic” is all a matter of perspective and none of those are necessarily more “epic” than any other, it just depends on your experience. Regardless though, climbing with a full 45L pack doesn’t make for very fun climbing. All that said, it’s easier to make the mountain pack work as a crag pack than the other way around. Kinda like how you’d pack the ice tools and crampons you want for the crux and then deal with them on the moderate pitches. |
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If you are after a silver bullet pack, then why not pony up more money so you only have to buy it once? If you never want to buy a pack again in your life, the dyneema offerings from Hyperlite and CiloGear are probably the ticket. Those above have rightfully pointed out that the 40-45L size isn't good for climbing in. Unless you're doing non-single-push alpine climbing, it's probably going to be too big. I guess you could get a Hyperlite 3400 and just fold it down, though. That being said, while I love Hyperlite packs, they are an absolute pain to open while on route--do not use them as a follower pack on a grade II-IV climb. Frankly, I think your money is better spent on a dedicated crag pack and a follower pack. Something like a Trango Crag Pack plus a BD Bullet for on-route stuff might be the ticket. Unless you're doing grade V stuff or ski touring, you're not going to need a pack that size. But if you must, here's an alternative to the BD mission. |
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I have the Osprey mutant 38 and really enjoy it it's a good crag pack as well as a overnight pack. To capacity it holds as much as a 40-45l pack It's a little too much for single day ski tours or light mountaineering missions. If I don't have a full pack I just throw the brain inside the main compartment and don't really notice anything. I'd buy the 20l version too. For a better summit / day pack. I have lots of buddies that enjoy the assensionst by Patagonia it's more striped down then the mutant but you can shove a bunch of shit in it and isn't too cumbersome if only half empty. |
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Check out the Blue Ice packs. They have struck a really awesome balance between light, clever, carrying capacity/ability, and price. https://www.blueice.com/us/en/packs/146-warthog-45l-pack.html https://www.blueice.com/us/en/packs/149-dragonfly-45l-pack.html |
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+1 on the BD Mission 45 as an all-arounder. I use it for everything from cragging (you can carry the rope inside it) to backpacking (it's heavy for that, but I need the training), to overnight rock adventures, to long-weekend ski-in winter alpine rock + camping trips (it's a bit too small for everything, but I just strap gear to the outside). At first I thought the crampon pouch was an overly-specialized waste of weight, but it turns out to be useful to stuff a hat, gloves, and nalgene into. The pack is pretty big/bulky for climbing steep technical rock, but it works OK when following (I'm pretty much anti-backpack for multi-pitch rock anyway [see thread]). My biggest gripe is that the velcro straps for your ice ax handles are kinda flimsy. My only other pack is a very light 12-liter thing my Mom found on the internet for like $15, and I rarely ever use it. |
JaredG wrote: Jared, it sounds we have nearly the same use case! For cragging, I carry my climbing rope inside with a full rack, shoes, helmet, etc. and a static on the outside. The compression straps on the outside are great for carrying all sorts of added stuff. I also have only just begun to utilize the crampon pouch for more things. Fits a Nalgene perfectly, and the cinch closure helps me feel better about tossing things like a wind shirt, insulating layer, or edge protectors in there without falling out. The only time I've ever actually worn it while climbing (that I can remember) was a couple winters ago on Shoestring Gully, and that's mostly low-angle. I didn't find the velcro straps to be flimsy, however. The material is flimsy I suppose, but the velcro sticks very well. My multipitch pack is a 14ish liter thing from L.L. Bean. |
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I have tried expense, cylogrear, and thought it was one of the worst packs i have owned in 40+ years of climbing. Perhaps i was expecting it to be much better than mainstream packs my expectations were high. I no longer worry about durability, most packs last about 2 years. Cylogrear only lasted 1 year. I buy from mass mainstream manufacturer in the fall on sale. My current pack is a mutant 38 i got new for $75. I will beat it up and buy whatever is on sale when it needs replacing. I look for 40ish liter, floating top l, foam and mental stays for suspension, single top opening bag. Fall is coming so there will be sales soon. |
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I've used or own most of the packs mentioned here. The best comparison I can come up with is most of them are like Civics and Corollas, and my HMG pack is like a Ferrari. |
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Wow thanks for all of the input everyone! It really helped clear up my thoughts on backpacks. I think I will invest in something a little smaller for multi-pitch endeavors. Then invest in a larger pack later on for longer multi day trips. |
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I'm a fan of Cold Cold World. Not fancy but super well built and bomb proof. |
Jake Laba wrote: Queue all the CCW owners. Amazingly priced for the quality. You won't find a better value for a fantastic custom alpine pack made to order in the US by a climber. I have three and love them all. The oldest is almost 10 years old and has been carried all over the world (even hauled on el cap!) and looks like new (other than the webbing starting to get a little crunchy from exposure and age). Simply fantastic. |
Russ B wrote: What size is your HMG bc im not thrilled w how my 3400 carries 30+ pounds. What weights are you guys and gals getting on an average 1 overnight mission (so rack rope bag shelter food)? Let’s say summertime alpine. I have a decent selection of high end gear and still end up in the 30-35 pound range. My Arcteryx FL has no real hip belt so it carries that weight horribly. My HMG 3400 also poorly translates weight to my hips. My Osprey backpacking pack is carries weight fantastically but is shit to climb with and...you can’t look cool climbing alpine in a framed backpacking pack The Mission seems to carry well and has survived for years. The Mutant has good reviews and seems to do both well. I’ve heard HMG redesigned their hip belts (mines from 2014). |
Arthur W wrote: I'm 5'11" and 140, I have the small sized 70L SW, it's circa '17-'18. I ran down lone peak the other day with 35 pound in it, and I've ski toured with about 60 in it. No it's not as comfortable as my full internal frame osprey variant, but it beats the BD speed and Ascentionist and it's comfy enough. The other features... Climbs well and is very light for it's size, big outside pockets, compressibility/expandability, and it's durability more than make it for it not being the absolute best at carrying loads. |
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I would go with either Blue Ice Wartog 45 or Exped Black Ice 45 or Exped Serac 45. Other viable options include: Osprey Mutant 38 |
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I have had nothing but positive experiences with my Gregory Aplinisto LT 38 |
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I have a Mystery Ranch scepter 50. Havent used it in the alpine yet, just local rock climbing. It's light and carries very well. |
NateC wrote: I would add to this, see if you can get the older generation, pre-2019. They redid the warthogs and made them less durable. They used to be a modern take on the classic alpine pack. I think they screwed up the current generation, adding features and using a crappier fabric. Plus that’s color of the current warthog is just awful. The generation before was a thing of beauty |
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And add another plug for CCW, but think hard about the features you want before ordering. Some thoughts on the Valdez model (also own the ozone): It’s very strappy. Once you get going and remove the lid and your crampons, it’s very strappy. If you like a clean faced pack you would do well to eliminate those straps. Tool carry: the buckles for the handles don’t tighten, and when closed they are loose around the handles, so the tools bounced around while walking. Bugged the shit out of me. The extension sleeve: it is narrower than the main opening, so I think it is a pain in the ass. If I ordered it again, I would want that extension to be wider at the top, so it’s less annoying when digging into the pack. Capacity: it’s not 40l. Or if it is, then every other maker is being way too generous with their capacity. Had I known it was so small, I would have gotten the Chernobyl. If I were to get the Chernobyl or another Valdez, I would: have the tapered extension sleeve as mentioned above, no crampon straps; No tool handle straps (use shock cord); no buckles for ice tool heads (use shock cord on lowest part of daisy chain) and have the pick sleeves like the chernobyl has. All in all, hard to beat the craftsmanship, and these packs are durable as hell. Really, it’s hard to find packs this nice if you want simple cordura—but unless you ask for items to be removed, there is just lots of faff. |
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I also use the mystery ranch scepter 50L. It’s a very comfortable pack and can handle weight quite well. Been pretty durable so far too. It rides like a dream skiing in the backcountry and has a nice avy pocket. It can be stripped down to get it lighter if wanted. Only downside is the lid closure, but so far so good there too. |
