|
Alec Batten
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2020
· Points: 0
Hey guys. Im in desperate need of a new pair of shoes. I’m an intermediate climber that loves everything ranging from slab to crack... I want a good do it all pair. I realize that there is not a perfect do it all shoe, but these are the ones I’m considering... The 5.10 Anasazi Lace The 5.10 Anasazi VCS The La Sportiva Katana
On another note, I’m leaving in a couple days to climb my first multi pitch with some good climbing friends of mine (6pitches) and because of this, don’t want to shoes to be too uncomfortable. My last pair of shoes were the la sportiva finale’s and I love them, but I want something a little more proformance based. What are your opinion
p.s most of my climbing is single pitch projects.
|
|
Mike Palasek
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Columbus, OH
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 0
I can only speak to the Anasazi Lace. Only shoe of the 3 that I have used. That said, the Anasazi Lace is my go-to shoe for multi-pitch trad. They are a great edging shoe, and smear really well. They are flat enough to make them a good crack shoe. When I wear them, I don't worry about my feet. I just climb, and the shoes do everything that I ask them to. I sized them snug and get about a half size of stretch. Street shoe 11, Anasazi Lace 9 1/2. Performance fit. I'm on my 3rd pair.
|
|
Matt N
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
CA
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 425
Own more than one pair of shoes.
Resole your old/comfy pair and use those for multipitch. Have a velcro pair for sport/gym/bouldering. etc
If you know your size in a certain brand/model - search ebay/poshmark/mercari and you can find nearly new shoes for the price of a resole +/-
|
|
Daniel Isaacs
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 0
Love pinks for just about everything outside Also have katanas and use them for everything (never multi pitch crack climbed with them) But if I could only have one pair of shoes I would have a very difficult time choosing between these two.
Personally Velcro shoes suck for my foot shape. I only have a pair of Velcro shoes for indoor bouldering.
|
|
Joseph Brody
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Campbell, CA
· Joined Nov 2019
· Points: 59
5.10s really fit my wide foot, so after extensively looking and trying on, I went with the Anasazi Lace and after break in, I love them.
|
|
Ted Pinson
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Anasazis have better rubber. If they fit your foot the lace or VCS are both incredible all around shoes. If I had to own only one shoe it would be one of them. Once broken in (they feel clunky at first - give it time) they are incredible - sticky and sensitive but still stiff enough to edge. Between the two the Pink is stiffer so will edge better and are generally more comfortable for long days, while the VCS is softer and will give you better sensitivity in my experience. Both will be better at both of these attributes than the Katana IMO.
|
|
Rexford Nesakwatch
·
Jul 20, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
All three are great shoes, but the Anasazi fit differently than the Katanas. The Anasazis fit a wider forefoot better and fit my wider heels much better. The Katanas are more aggressive, a little stiffer and have a slight downturn, and much more aggressive and tight heels.
For multipitch, I would pick the Anasazi, but that is because they fit my foot like a glove. I can never size the Katana well for anything more than a pic or two of climbing.
You're not going to like the true answer, but you need to try them both to figure out which fit your foot better. Even in the Anasazi line, I slightly prefer the velcros over pinks, because they just fit me a little better, but for many of my friends the pinks are the ones.
I suggest buying the katanas and one of the anasazi's and trying at home before you go, and returning the other one. You can't go wrong with these shoes as long as they fit your feet.
|
|
Ted Pinson
·
Jul 21, 2020
·
Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Also worth noting that the Katana lace is a very different (and IMO better) shoe than the velcro. Rex sounds like he’s describing the lace.
|
|
Steve Climber
·
Jul 21, 2020
·
Salt Lake City
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 659
Katana laces are a pretty great all around shoe, I use mine mostly for moderate trad and sport, but they are downturned enough to be pretty good for bouldering and steep sport routes. The only thing I wouldn't want to climb with them is featureless friction slab.
Finales were also my first shoes, and honestly any of the shoes mentioned here are going to be immensely better than those.
|
|
Joseph Brody
·
Jul 21, 2020
·
Campbell, CA
· Joined Nov 2019
· Points: 59
Fit is critical for me so, if you have not tried and like the fit of 5.10, then La Sportiva might be the way to go.
In Covid, I spent a ridiculous amount of time trying on shoes and shipping them back when they did not work.
|
|
Alec Batten
·
Jul 21, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2020
· Points: 0
Thanks guys! This helps a lot. Of course I would love continued feedback, but thanks for your answers so far!
|
|
Newt Riverman
·
Jul 21, 2020
·
Denver, CO
· Joined Jul 2019
· Points: 0
VCS is my favorite trad shoe, have a couple pairs the moc version for cruiser stuff.
|