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Craig Chang
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Jul 13, 2020
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 193
I saw these at liberty mountain. They look just like the beal birdie, but I can't seem to find any reviews online. Anyone have any personal experience with these?
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amarius
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Jul 13, 2020
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Nowhere, OK
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 20
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DrRockso RRG
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Jul 13, 2020
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Red River Gorge, KY
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 860
The birdie is in the US, tried one the other day. Feeds out reasonably well, the lowering action SUCKS though. I'll be sticking with the Gri Gri.
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Craig Chang
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Jul 13, 2020
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 193
Anyone have personal experience?
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Bo London
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Jul 16, 2020
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Richardson, TX
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 0
I own and use a mad rock lifeguard. I like it. Brief review:
Loads like a gri gri, but the carabiner holes on the side plates are a little more open on the lifeguard. Catches falls like a gri gri. Taking in rope is same as gri gri.
Paying out rope ATC-style is better than a gri gri. You have to be more jerky to engage the cam, but it happens. Gri gri is easier to get used to the method of defeating the cam while paying out rope. Smoothness is rewarded with the lifeguard in this regard.
More compact on the harness than gri gri, but not noticeably different weight. All metal construction makes it feel nice and durable. Steel in the right places.
Lowering on the lifeguard seems like there's a bigger sweet spot to control the speed of descent compared with gri gri 2. (edit to add) Lifeguard does not twist rope during lowering if you use the recommended technique.
It's way less expensive than a gri gri.
I have no experience with Beal birdie or the edelrid.
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Fail Falling
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Jul 17, 2020
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@failfalling - Oakland, Ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 916
Bo London
wrote:
I own and use a mad rock lifeguard. I like it. Brief review:
Loads like a gri gri, but the carabiner holes on the side plates are a little more open on the lifeguard. Catches falls like a gri gri. Taking in rope is same as gri gri.
Paying out rope ATC-style is better than a gri gri. You have to be more jerky to engage the cam, but it happens. Gri gri is easier to get used to the method of defeating the cam while paying out rope. Smoothness is rewarded with the lifeguard in this regard.
More compact on the harness than gri gri, but not noticeably different weight. All metal construction makes it feel nice and durable. Steel in the right places.
Lowering on the lifeguard seems like there's a bigger sweet spot to control the speed of descent compared with gri gri 2. (edit to add) Lifeguard does not twist rope during lowering if you use the recommended technique.
It's way less expensive than a gri gri.
I have no experience with Beal birdie or the edelrid. I love my lifegaurd BUT if you do a lot of consecutive rappelling (I use a lot of fixed lines on my projects soI rap and jug a lot, won't be an issue unless you're doing multipitch with a lot of simul rapping) the handle i metal and heats up considerably. For me after two consecutive raps I will need to let the device sit for a bit to cool off before using it for the next raps. This is the ONLY reason I don't use it as my main belay device on walls. I bolded a lot of the reasons above that make this an awesome device
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Bo London
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Jul 20, 2020
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Richardson, TX
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 0
Dana Bartlett wrote: You have to be more jerky to engage the cam, but it happens.
I'm not sure what you mean. Could you expand on this? When paying out an armload of slack for a climber that is clipping over their head, the gri gri will be more likely to engage the cam than a lifeguard. It does happen with a lifeguard if the belayer jerkes the rope through, but smoothness and feeding the dead strand from above the device mostly avoids the issue.
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Craig Chang
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Jul 23, 2020
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 193
Anyone have any info on the Edelweiss kinetic belay device?
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