Courtright Reservoir Beta

Hi all,

If anyone could give me some basic courtright reservoir beta that would be great; I've never been there and have a couple of quick questions.

1) I'll likely be doing the primitive camping one night, but then a friend will be joining us (who won't be climbing) and I'd like to book either the Voyager Rock/Trapper Springs campground. Any pluses/minuses for those campgrounds?
2) It seems like most of the people who go up are fisherman/car campers, I'm assuming I would have the pick of the litter in terms of climbs?
3) I'm probably going to do a day on Power Dome/a day cragging single pitch climbing and then scenic hiking. Any recommendations on a place to crag, seems like Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall is a good spot? Any other recs? Hiking ~10 mile loops/lollipop?
4) What are road conditions like? I'm assuming AWD/medium clearance is more than enough?
5) Any little gems that get overlooked either in terms of hiking, swimming, little shops, etc?

I know I could look up most of this stuff and have a fairly good idea as to the answers to most of them, but I just wanted to double-check or if anyone that has been up there super recently and has condition reports. I'm waiting on the guidebook right now, so I can't do as much planning as I hoped before the trip.

Thanks all!

Huge disclaimer: it's been some years since I've been there, but this is what I remember:

1. Trapper springs CG would be my preference - it's better located and not as windswept. Also, both Spring Dome (aka Marmot Dome) and Trapper Dome are within walking distance. Access to Voyager Rock CG requires 4x4/high clearance. It's also pretty far from most of the climbing and on the wrong side of the reservoir. Follow the usual due diligence and precautions for camping in bear country.
2. Generally the climbs are pretty empty, esp during the week.
3. Research your routes carefully - many are old school BOLD and a ton of others are fucking terrifying. Be comfortable with 20-40 foot runouts, maybe more. Especially on Power Dome. Even the approach has some butt-puckering moments.
4. Roads are fine but extremely slow due to narrowness and more curves than you can imagine. Going from Wishon up to Courtright is "only 7 miles" - it's about a 20-30 minute drive.
5. There are no "little shops" - just an RV park at Wishon with a basic campground store.There's nothing at Courtright. If you're looking for shops or restaurants, the nearest are at Shaver Lake.

Marc801 C wrote: Huge disclaimer: it's been some years since I've been there, but this is what I remember:

1. Trapper springs CG would be my preference - it's better located and not as windswept. Also, both Spring Dome (aka Marmot Dome) and Trapper Dome are within walking distance. Access to Voyager Rock CG requires 4x4/high clearance. It's also pretty far from most of the climbing and on the wrong side of the reservoir. Follow the usual due diligence and precautions for camping in bear country.
2. Generally the climbs are pretty empty, esp during the week.
4. Roads are fine but extremely slow due to narrowness and more curves than you can imagine. Going from Wishon up to Courtright is "only 7 miles" - it's about a 20-30 minute drive.
5. There are no "little shops" - just an RV park at Wishon with a basic campground store.There's nothing at Courtright. If you're looking for shops or restaurants, the nearest are at Shaver's Lake.

Thanks Marc. FYI, to anyone curious: 

Voyager Rock CG is CLOSED for the entirety of the 2020 season 

Trapper Springs CG is CLOSED from July 13th - 19th

Marmot CG is OPEN for the remainder of the season 

It wasn't obvious to get that information especially Trapper Springs CG as the FS lists it open but PG&E, which ostensibly maintains the CG, has it explictly closed during that time frame.

Marc, have you ever stayed at the Marmot CG?

3. Research your routes carefully - many are old school BOLD and a ton of others are fucking terrifying. Be comfortable with 20-40 foot runouts, maybe more. Especially on Power Dome. Even the approach has some butt-puckering moments.

Thanks, I'm well aware. I have a lot of experience climbing runout slab at Suicide, Tuolumne etc. I know what I'm signing up for :-)

Thomas Claiborne wrote:

Marc, have you ever stayed at the Marmot CG?

No. I feel it's kinda exposed and pretty much right on the road. Trapper Springs is more secluded and in a nice pine forest.

Also, something important I forgot to mention - the mosquitoes are vicious, nasty, and numbering in the millions! After the first time, we swore we would never go back without a screen enclosure for the picnic table and cooking area. Despite the gallons of DEET, we still made an emergency run to purchase some of those large citronella candle pots.

it will likely be hot during a lot of the day.  really early starts and evening climbing will probably be the ticket.  the tiger area has great afternoon/evening climbing.

Just a few notes to add
-Tiger Cage/wall, Power Dome, Trapper Dome are the crags that see the majority of action, As mentioned, Tiger Cage/wall is one of the few options that is comfortable in the heat.
-The dispersed camping is very popular with climbers and non-climbers. I would advise getting there mid-week if you want a decent spot. YMMV
-Marmot CG only has 15 sites, Courtright is a popular place for fishing and families camping. I would not plan on being able to snag a site necessarily.
-Power Dome gets really HOT, you want to be off that thing before the sun hits it mid morning

Wow.... Marc801 is first to answer.
He is partly correct and partly wrong.
Trapper Springs CG is really nice, big trees and close to the best Semi-Sport climbing- Trapper Dome. It’s sort of removed from Power Dome, Voyager Rock, Tiger cage - a twisty road back to the dam takes about 20 min to get to the Dam.- cross over it and drive down to the first hard left. This is where one parks for Power Dome. Keep following this road till you dead end at a huge parking lot. This is a major trailhead. Just before you get to this some camping can be found on the left and to the right. Two seasons ago we camped on the granite slab off to the right. The trail head is close by with some of the most used pit toilets in the Sierra. You’re looking at Voyager from here as well as Penstemon Dome, Punk Rock, Dusy Dome
I always liked to pick one side of the Lake and stay there. To me Trapper has some of the best rock and “semi-Sport” climbing around. Many of those climbs were done when sport climbing was in its infancy and climbs like MDC have bolts and gear, knobs to use. And you can follow the shade and work your way around the Dome
My old rule of “Never before Labor Day” has as much to do with the insects as with the heat.
It’s good that Dwight made a GB, the place is larger than life and all approaches are longer than they look. I recommend the Swiss Cheese Wall (Down next to PD) for some well protected stuff. Have fun, remember to bring everything you will need. And thank PG&E if they didn’t build that pump storage project it wouldn’t be available as roadside crags.        
One more thing, it’s a big drive with tons of twisty paved roads, our favorite car of choice is the Porsche, no 4x4, hi-clearances required. Have fun

Edit: bring small tri-cams you will need them on Power Dome as well as 4-5mm cord to use as threads, some of the rocks have deep, small holes and a thread is needed. If you’re a 5.10 climber do “Welcome to Courtright” a brilliant climb. 

they aren't joking about the twisty roads.  by the time you get to camp you will be whupped from all that turning back and forth.

If you start on Power Dome by 8am, you should be topping out when the sun hits the wall. Smegmathon is one of the best and least stressful routes I’ve done there. Hannaramic is also great and pretty well protected.

Dam Cracks are shady after around 1pm, the 10b and 10c are really fun and there's no approach. Sex Wall is shady and breezy in the afternoon. Many of the routes on lower tier of Trapper Dome are shady until mid-day (I highly recommend Nosferatu).

The free camping is awesome, no reason to pay for a site at Trapper Springs CG, which, as you mentioned, is gonna be closed this week for some logging operation. Roads are paved and you can do them in any car, just keep your eyes peeled for potholes.

Thomas Claiborne wrote: Hi all,

If anyone could give me some basic courtright reservoir beta that would be great; I've never been there and have a couple of quick questions.

1) I'll likely be doing the primitive camping one night, but then a friend will be joining us (who won't be climbing) and I'd like to book either the Voyager Rock/Trapper Springs campground. Any pluses/minuses for those campgrounds?
2) It seems like most of the people who go up are fisherman/car campers, I'm assuming I would have the pick of the litter in terms of climbs?
3) I'm probably going to do a day on Power Dome/a day cragging single pitch climbing and then scenic hiking. Any recommendations on a place to crag, seems like Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall is a good spot? Any other recs? Hiking ~10 mile loops/lollipop?
4) What are road conditions like? I'm assuming AWD/medium clearance is more than enough?
5) Any little gems that get overlooked either in terms of hiking, swimming, little shops, etc?

I know I could look up most of this stuff and have a fairly good idea as to the answers to most of them, but I just wanted to double-check or if anyone that has been up there super recently and has condition reports. I'm waiting on the guidebook right now, so I can't do as much planning as I hoped before the trip.

Thanks all!

I was up there a few weeks ago and the campgrounds were closed, but you can just camp where ever. You should check to see if the campgrounds are open if you want to stay in a campground specifically. 

Probably should bring your own water. 

Tiger cage is good for cragging and Punk Rock is also good. (choose between easy slab climbing or hard vertical climbing). The Dam wall is good for cracks.

Road conditions - pave roads, no need for high clearance unless you plan to do off roading. Jeeping is popular in the area.

For little shops - I would recommend stopping at Cressman's below Shaver Lake for their Beerocks (like a German empanada).

Just got back from there.  Temps were mid to low 70s, it was hot in the sun. Climbed single pitch on trapper dome in the morning shade.  When it went in the sun it was hot.  Sex wall was in the shade around 230.  It was real nice on power dome with a breeze.  Start in the morning on the west face.  East face goes into the shade about 330.  Good camping just drive over the dam.  Trapper springs CG is closed this week due to logging.  Busy with fisherman.  Only saw a couple of other climbers.  Had it all to our selves.  Bring a SUP for the reservoir.