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Women’s Otaki vs Kataki climbing shoe

Original Post
Lina Tyra · · RI · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Hi everyone, so I’ve been climbing for maybe 3-4 years in my la sportiva finales and I love them, but I’m trying to get into some tougher sport climbing and multi pitch so I went looking for a slightly more aggressive shoe.
Tried the skwamas, otakis and katakis. I know the main different between the katakis and otakis is lace vs velcro but I also noticed the otaki shoe edge is digging in under my left ankle... anyone else have this Issue?
I tried the katakis and love the comfort but I think I ordered a size too large. I use 38 in finales so I ordered those sizes for all three shoes. Otaki fits like a glove but kataki seems half a size too big.
Was wondering if anyone was encountering similar issues or had some insight?

Kate Sedrowski · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The women's Katakis definitely run large. (I can't compare them to the Otakis, since I haven't tried those.) I wear the Katakis two full sizes down from my street shoe size, though 1.5 sizes down would probably be slightly more comfortable.

Unfortunately, the Katakis are now discontinued, so if you can find your size, grab a pair if you can!

Lina Tyra · · RI · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Dan Daugherty wrote:

Yes, I had that issue with the otakai digging into my ankles. Yes, I'm a dude. Yes, I wear women's athletic shoes because they fit my tiny ass feet better than men's shoes. They now sit in my gear bin for anyone who happens to wear 36 1/2 sized shoes and wants to try climbing with me.

I'll add that tougher sport and multi pitch may be opposing goals for a single shoe. I much prefer a slipper/moccasin style shoe for multipitch and a more aggressive shoe for harder sport
Ok thank you. Would you have another suggestion for a better shoe for multi pitches?
Lina Tyra · · RI · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Kate Sedrowski wrote: The women's Katakis definitely run large. (I can't compare them to the Otakis, since I haven't tried those.) I wear the Katakis two full sizes down from my street shoe size, though 1.5 sizes down would probably be slightly more comfortable.

Unfortunately, the Katakis are now discontinued, so if you can find your size, grab a pair if you can!

Ok that’s good to know haha. I figured since it was la sportiva the size would’ve been communicative but I guess not with the katakis.
Sad they’re discontinued :/found them on backcountry!

Beth Davidson · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 10

Seconding Mythos. Comfy all day for multi pitch but still perform well on vertical rock. I loved my velcro Katana's (sadly discontinued) and have found the Otaki to be a great replacement. No issue with them digging into my ankles though.

Ma Nu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

What do you mean by discontinued Katana velcro shoes? 

They are still available... just changed a bit and now come in new colours:)

Beth Davidson · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 10

That's interesting, could you post a link?

Ma Nu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

https://www.lasportiva.com/de/schuhe-damen/klettern/katana-woman

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12

I have the Kataki and Katana Laces.

I wear the Katana in 38 and Kataki in 38. I didn't have the issue you describe above (being too large compared to your other shoe). Is it big all around or mainly in the heel/toe box? 

Jennifer Raven · · SLO, CA · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0

I have Otaki's and they're awesome for bouldering/technical sections. They aren't really comfortable enough I'd wear them for an all day climb though. I'd probably stick to my Miura's or my Tarantulace for all day multi-pitch climbs.

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 964

I find that otakis climb significantly better than katakis when sized up for crack or multipitch comfort.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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