Video: The hardest dyno I've ever stuck! Zen Flute (v10)

One of the more sought after dynos, and for good reason. Zen Flute is truly an achievement to work towards, with relatively easy climbing that leads into a massive v10 dyno off of tiny, slippery crimps. There is plenty of potential for different beta, so no matter how many videos you watch of people climbing this problem, get creative and you might just find your own way!

But one thing is certain, no matter how you do it, you're going to have to squeeze the top with everything you got!


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P.S. Anyone else climbed this thing using different beta? 

Definitely a hard dyno, and much harder than I originally anticipated based on other videos.  Good job on the macro shots of the seam and sidepull, they're way worse than they look in other videos, I think this video does the boulder a lot more justice.  It is a really fun problem, and definitely the hardest dyno I've ever done.  

I'll never live down the fact that I had my hand on the finish jug but forgot to.... close my hand???  About an hour and a half into my first session.  That's some 808's levels of heartbreak right there.  I tried the boulder for another 3 hours to no avail.  Came back months later with some fresh skin and finished it off.

Either way, great video and great boulder.  

I slipped off the final hold too. And after falling back to the ground I thought to myself "well at least it doesn't get closer than that." But I was wrong because the next time my hand hit the final hold I slid off again, only after chuffing that last move twice did I learn that I actually had to squeeze the juice out of it to get my hand to stick.

Definitely misleading, since Bishop has so many climbs that end of a huge bucket, I figured the last hold must be a jug! It's really not xD

All that is what makes it even MORE satisfying to stick!

Inspiring stuff! Congrats on the send!

Kyle Love wrote: I slipped off the final hold too. And after falling back to the ground I thought to myself "well at least it doesn't get closer than that." But I was wrong because the next time my hand hit the final hold I slid off again, only after chuffing that last move twice did I learn that I actually had to squeeze the juice out of it to get my hand to stick.

Definitely misleading, since Bishop has so many climbs that end of a huge bucket, I figured the last hold must be a jug! It's really not xD

All that is what makes it even MORE satisfying to stick!

Definitely a heartbreaker, for me it was one of those "I'm not even close" "Oh wait fuck I'm over the hold" "Oh wait fuck pt. 2 I'm already falling", truly Shakespearean level of tragedy out here.  I'd categorize my relationship with the finish hold as "touch and go" ah ha ha.

Also, everyone trivializes the bottom section of the problem but, I think matching the seam is fairly challenging, especially since there's really only one part of the hold that is usable.  Not sure how you feel about that sentiment, as you seemed to easily be able to reposition on the right hand (way to go, that was way hard for me).

Without a doubt an incredibly satisfying dunk to finally stick.  Try Judge Not V9 in the area if you're interested in slamming jugs in the area.  Absolutely phenomenal problem.  Great for photo/video ops, as well ;)