2020 Scarpa Vapor lace vs TC pro fit concerns

Loving TC pros less and less. My first pairs from a decade ago fit really well, but subsequently, toe box has become wider and performance sloppier.

Would like to hear direct comparison of 2020 Scarpa Vapor Lace from anyone who's used both, especially as related to foot shape, toe box, forefoot width.

Also, how is down turn aggressiveness?

Following. I am interested in how others size the new Vapor laces. I was able to "demo" (borrowed from the rep next to me at a crag for a pitch) the new Vapors a few weeks ago in my street size (9.5/42.5) which seemed perfect and not tight - the pair I borrowed were relatively new and had only a few days in them. However, as I type I am wearing new 42.5s for the third day in a row (at my computer) and my toes are still a little curled, which I don't want. For the record, I am a 40.5 in TCs performance fit but not too tight for several pitches. Two full sizes between TCs and Vapors seems huge and I would have thought that would make the Vapors too big, but I may go 0.5 up in the Vapors (one of the reps like street, one liked 0.5 up), time will tell.  

As far as comparing to TCs, I haven't climbed in them so can't really say much about fit yet although first impressions are I like the heel of the Vapors WAY better. The heels fit seem about the same volume which I will describe as moderately narrow (I have fat heels); however, the new Vapors have Scarpa's new PAF heel, which splits the tensioned rand so it doesn't go over the Achilles (it stops on either side), which makes it feel way softer and more comfy over my heels compared to TCs. The toe box seems a little pointy-er than the TCs but the width in the forefoot seems similar out of the box. The Vapor is not as wide of a toe box as a Boostic FWIW. The Vapor is synthetic so my assumption is it will not stretch like the TCs, however the top of the Vapor toe box is made out of comfy foam-like material so I think they will break in somewhat.

After four pairs, I am over the TCs. First impressions of the new Vapors are they are a nicer, more modern shoe that (I hope) may end up being both more comfy (they have a sweet, micro-fiber liner throughout) and higher performance than the TCs. The lace has so much tech going on:

https://youtu.be/ncSVRnKBDLw

Anyone else want to chime in on they size the new Vapor lace?

Doug Hutchinson wrote: my street size (9.5/42.5)... I am a 40.5 in TCs performance fit but not too tight... However, as I type I am wearing new 42.5 (vapor lace) for the third day in a row (at my computer) and my toes are still a little curled, which I don't want... but I may go 0.5 in the Vapors

Assuming you mean 0.5 up to sz 43?

So you are sizing up 2 to 2.5 Eu sizes from TC pro? That would put my TC pro fit 42.5-43 up to 44.5-45 in Vapor lace. Yikes, huge sizing difference.

You compared toe box to Boostic, how is relative down turn and edging stiffness between Vapor lace and Boostic?

mountainhick wrote:
"Assuming you mean 0.5 up to sz 43?

So you are sizing up 2 to 2.5 Eu sizes from TC pro? That would put my TC pro fit 42.5-43 up to 44.5-45 in Vapor lace. Yikes, huge sizing difference.

You compared toe box to Boostic, how is relative down turn and edging stiffness between Vapor lace and Boostic?"

First, anything I say about sizing now is nearly meaningless. Yes, I may go up 0.5 size which would be a 43. Or I may stay with a 42.5 not sure now.

My TC's are 40.5 which is 1.5 sizes in US size down from my street shoe, which is how some people I know size TC's and then way smaller than others. Truthfully, I find the way that people size TC Pros to be all over the place. I find that TCs stretch a lot so it allows for a lot of downsizing for those that don't mind a lengthy break-in period. 

For reference here's a picture of a pretty used pair of TC's in 40.5 next to a brand new pair of vapor laces in 42.5 and the length seems identical. The Vapors may actually be a hair short but they are brand new and still have all the down turn to make the length seem shorter than they would be if weighted. 


Boostic is more downturned and I assume the Boostic will edge much better (is there a better edging shoe than the Boostic??), but again I have not even put the vapors on plastic yet.

Doug Hutchinson wrote: mountainhick wrote:
"Assuming you mean 0.5 up to sz 43?

So you are sizing up 2 to 2.5 Eu sizes from TC pro? That would put my TC pro fit 42.5-43 up to 44.5-45 in Vapor lace. Yikes, huge sizing difference.

You compared toe box to Boostic, how is relative down turn and edging stiffness between Vapor lace and Boostic?"

First, anything I say about sizing now is nearly meaningless. Yes, I may go up 0.5 size which would be a 43. Or I may stay with a 42.5 not sure now.

My TC's are 40.5 which is 1.5 sizes in US size down from my street shoe, which is how some people I know size TC's and then way smaller than others. Truthfully, I find the way that people size TC Pros to be all over the place. I find that TCs stretch a lot so it allows for a lot of downsizing for those that don't mind a lengthy break-in period.

For reference here's a picture of a pretty used pair of TC's in 40.5 next to a brand new pair of vapor laces in 42.5 and the length seems identical. The Vapors may actually be a hair short but they are brand new and still have all the down turn to make the length seem shorter than they would be if weighted.

Boostic is more downturned and I assume the Boostic will edge much better (is there a better edging shoe than the Boostic??), but again I have not even put the vapors on plastic yet.

This is really helpful, your sizing comparision is specific and useful. It is not meaningless. Thank you!

Wore a size 40 TC Pro for a year and now wear a 41.5/42 in Vapor lace. Size 40 TC Pro was tight, toes curled. The fit is similar in a 41.5 Vapor Lace. Street size is like 8 or 8.5. Definitely a large sizing difference and it seems to be that way between most Sportiva and Scarpa shoes.

The TC Pro was too narrow in the forefoot which is why I stopped wearing them. The heel was also a bit too baggy. The Vapor Lace fit perfectly right out of the box. I have wide-ish feet and a mortons toe. I would definitely say that the Vapors are wider, and the heel on the Vapors is also shallower.

The Vapor Lace doesn't feel that stiff to me. Coming from wearing the Scarpa Maestro and Miura VS, I noticed a difference standing on small footholds; the Vapor Lace feels less supportive. The TC Pro and the other stiff shoes transferred the weight throughout my foot more and the Vapor Lace, even tight, feels like I'm holding more of the weight on my toes. It's slightly downturned but I hardly notice it, but most of my shoes are downturned.

Tbh, the Vapor Laces and TC Pros feel pretty different; the TC's are stiffer and beefier. The Vapors feel less protected with thinner material on the outside and on the tongue. The laces aren't protected and I've had mine break on hand cracks. I don't really use them for anything bigger than #1 sized cracks but they're great for thinner cracks. The Vapors seem more comparable to the Katana or something, although I haven't worn that shoe.

Other shoes that fit me well are Scarpa Maestro and Skwamas in the forefoot (both have baggy heels). Instinct VS and Vapor Vs are both a really good fit for me. The Miura VS is thin in the forefoot for me but usuable after they break in. Hope this helps.

Nick C-

Do you have 2020 Vapors, or the previous version?

2020s in 41.5 and the yellow ones in 42

I've used both of those shoes and Katanas are my new favorite with a similar wide foot shape.

I use my vapors in the gym and love them.  Likewise got less and less impressed with TC pros.  I size them as tight as possible pretty much and they still stretch to the point of being like any flat shoe IMO..  I suck at edging so I need every advantage I can get and Katanas do that for me. + Work better in the .4-75 sized cracks that are tough for me.

greggrylls wrote: I've used both of those shoes and Katanas are my new favorite with a similar wide foot shape.

I use my vapors in the gym and love them.  Likewise got less and less impressed with TC pros.  I size them as tight as possible pretty much and they still stretch to the point of being like any flat shoe IMO..  I suck at edging so I need every advantage I can get and Katanas do that for me. + Work better in the .4-75 sized cracks that are tough for me.

Katana lace or velcro?

mountainhick wrote:

Katana lace or velcro?

I use laces myself.   I imagine they fit similarly.  I've just always preferred laces to dial in fit and so the Velcro doesn't get in the way jamming.

Argh. Disenchanted by the wide forefoot comments. Mine aren't wide.

greggrylls wrote:

I use laces myself.   I imagine they fit similarly.  I've just always preferred laces to dial in fit and so the Velcro doesn't get in the way jamming.

Thanks, Birds of a feather.

mountainhick wrote: Argh. Disenchanted by the wide forefoot comments. Mine aren't wide.

I would say I have regular forefoot with a narrow heel.  My friend who has a narrower forefoot than myself also wears Katanas without complaint. 

They seem to be fairly adaptive shoes versus some super asymmetric downturned shoe that you really need to nail width on. 

Just like to reiterate in this old thread that the 2020 vapor laces are weapons compared to previous year models.. they are edging machines. Also, they are stiffer than the VCS with the full midsole and seem to put my big toe in a more powerful position. Great heel too. For me, 42 street, 40.5 vapor lace, 40 TC pro.