What is your weekly hangboarding routine?

Hitting a plateau strength wise recently, I have been climbing for two years.  

My typical week is 1 day of limit bouldering, 2 days rest (mtb usually), 1 day limit bouldering, 2 days rest, 1 day sport climbing.

Worried that I am either over training or under training but I cant figure out which. I do usually have soreness and it goes away after a few days rest.

Thinking that I might throw in a day or two hangboarding to replace one of the climbing days.

Thoughts?

Is the soreness in your fingers? If so, you're probably working them enough by just climbing.

Are you feeling limited by finger strength? Or are there other areas that you could work on to help alleviate the amount of weight you place on your fingers ? (core, flexibility, or technique)

If I were in your situation, I wouldn't replace a climbing session with hangboarding. I used to have a similar training structure where I pretty much exclusively did limit bouldering with a little higher volume climbing here and there. I found great benefit from incorporating more easy climbing into my routine. Something like spending 30 minutes just being on the wall climbing V-easy or 5.fun (without getting super pumped) on a would be rest day does a lot more than you'd expect. Training can have great benefit, but there's no replacement for actually climbing.

Thanks for the feedback Will.  More easier climbing would definitely help my technique and footwork and I do need that very focused time on technique for sure.

My fingers are actually not sore after climbing most of the time, even after limit bouldering outside in the V3-V5 range so I still feel like I may try to get 1 day of hangboarding in there per week. I dont think finger strength or core strength is what is limiting me, it is footwork and technique mostly right now but I still want to continue to increase finger strength. 

In that case, I think that incorporating a moderate hangboard session into your routine could be beneficial so long as your fingers can take the added training stress. If you feel more limited by technique I wouldn't replace a whole climbing session though. I personally think that hangboard ladders are a good place too start. Just be sure to listen to your body.

Ditch the mountain biking and go climbing. 

Maybe your body has adjusted and gotten comfortable in a rut, and you need to change up your regimen. Instead of always taking two days rest after a limit session, try doing two days on, one day off, or day on/day off/2 on/two off, etc. take note of your recovery and how your body feels and adjust it accordingly. Not every session needs to be limit. Try weights one day or hangboarding, or 4x4 volume climbing sessions, and make combinations. You can hangboard before some climbing sessions, and mix weights with on-wall circuits. Try “perfect repeats” where you send onsite-level boulders, and re-send them a few times over to get the process more fluid or cleaned up...or “silent feet” where you climb a route/problem without making sounds with your feet, which trains deliberate foot placement and good footwork. There’s tons of variations, and lots of resources and books on this. Keep your body guessing in your training.

There isn’t really any such thing as “weekly hangboarding routine”, because hangboard, like other training, should be changed up after doing the same thing for 4 weeks or so.

In your case, you can add a short hangboard session to your bouldering days. I would do it after a thorough warmup, and before the limit bouldering part of your day, and keep it short and simple. E.g. do min edge hangs, 7 sec on/53 off, repeated maybe 6-8 times to start, and increasing the number of reps by 1 every week for 4-5 weeks. It would be about 10 min added to your bouldering session, rest 5 min after hangboard, and then do your limit bouldering. After 4-5 weeks switch and do max weight hangs, instead of min edge, with the same timing, on ~20 mm edge.

But I think a bigger return would be from changing up your training in other ways. If you say you need to work on technique and footwork, limit bouldering is a poor way to do it. Add a day of easy sport climbing right after the day of limit bouldering, sort of high/low days. Or a day of easy mileage bouldering after the day of limit bouldering. And during these “easy” days specifically work on your technique. Climb precisely. Repeat the route/problem you barely onsighted, or got in couple tries, and aim to make it smooth by focusing on minute details. Did you adjust your hand placement on every hold? Aim to grab each hold exactly how you want it, and not re-adjusting. Did your foot cut or slip? Fix that. Etc. Climb the same problem slowly and staticky, then with momentum. Do the routes that you hated. The awkward ones. The ones that are called V2 for some reason, but you swear they must be harder.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try some of these and see what works for me, super helpful!

A 5-6 week focused finger training program might help. There are many options out there with detailed plans/schedules.  I used one of the training beta finger strength programs and saw significant improvement after completion. I found myself hangboarding quite a bit more than getting out climbing during the program but there was an obvious increase in finger strength which has translated to harder outdoor climbing. It was super helpful to get through the prolonged plateau I’d been dealing with. 

If you can, build a steep woody (35–55° overhanging). It's cliche but true — it really is the best training tool out there by a very wide margin. Nothing else allows you to rack up the same volume of hard, fingery moves that you need to progress, and by having your own board you'll be able to customize it to address your weaknesses. The gains from designing a slightly better fingerboard program are minor compared to what you get from more frequent, specific, hard bouldering.

Dan Schmidt wrote: If you can, build a steep woody (35–55° overhanging). It's cliche but true — it really is the best training tool out by a very wide margin. Nothing else allows you to rack up the same volume of hard, fingery moves that you need to progress, and by having your own board you'll be able to customize it to address your weaknesses. The marginal gains from designing a slightly better fingerboard program are minor compared to what you get from more frequent hard bouldering.

“Marginal gains” from finger boarding vs just climbing hard on a steep board is a bit of a skewed statement. Both tools get you stronger and improve climbing, but just building the board and throwing yourself at a problem with the crimp you can’t stick (especially dynamically) causes too many variables to track progression with finger strength. Yes, one day you latch it, maybe sooner maybe later, but you’re going to encounter another similar problem and restart the process with no real data on your progression other than “I finally stuck the move”. Hangboarding is an isolated, targeted approach to increasing finger strength that is easily tracked over time to follow progression. You know exactly when you’re getting stronger, and can compare to older recorded data, instead of moves or sequences you stuck on a board or boulder over time. You sacrifice less skin, especially on a wood hangboard, and don’t have to spend time climbing to the same crux repeatedly to train that specific movement or hold you want to get.
If you want to train that way, sure go ahead, but calling it “marginal” is not accurate. It’s a useful tool when done correctly for those interested in tracking and improving finger strength that can be tested on a board or boulder, and in my experience and countless others, you can see visible gains on both with a proper regimen depending on the time and effort you put forth on the hang board.

D Elliot wrote:

“Marginal gains” from finger boarding vs just climbing hard on a steep board is a bit of a skewed statement. Both tools get you stronger and improve climbing, but just building the board and throwing yourself at a problem with the crimp you can’t stick (especially dynamically) causes too many variables to track progression with finger strength. Yes, one day you latch it, maybe sooner maybe later, but you’re going to encounter another similar problem and restart the process with no real data on your progression other than “I finally stuck the move”. Hangboarding is an isolated, targeted approach to increasing finger strength that is easily tracked over time to follow progression. You know exactly when you’re getting stronger, and can compare to older recorded data, instead of moves or sequences you stuck on a board or boulder over time. You sacrifice less skin, especially on a wood hangboard, and don’t have to spend time climbing to the same crux repeatedly to train that specific movement or hold you want to get.
If you want to train that way, sure go ahead, but calling it “marginal” is not accurate. It’s a useful tool when done correctly for those interested in tracking and improving finger strength that can be tested on a board or boulder, and in my experience and countless others, you can see visible gains on both with a proper regimen depending on the time and effort you put forth on the hang board.

What experience has led you to this conclusion? I'm quite familiar with both fingerboarding and board climbing, and board climbing translates significantly better to actual climbing than just fingerboarding. That's particularly true for newer and lower level climbers who need the practice more than the pure, isolated, neutral-wrist, overhead finger strength. It's not a question of avoiding fingerboarding, but putting it in its proper place as a supplement to climbing.

My experience, and that of all the strong boulderers I know, is that board climbing is overwhelmingly more valuable than fingerboarding. Between semi-structured board sessions and rigidly structured and programmed fingerboarding, I would take the board without a second thought. It's not even close.

John W wrote: Hitting a plateau strength wise recently, I have been climbing for two years.  

My typical week is 1 day of limit bouldering, 2 days rest (mtb usually), 1 day limit bouldering, 2 days rest, 1 day sport climbing.

Worried that I am either over training or under training but I cant figure out which. I do usually have soreness and it goes away after a few days rest.

Thinking that I might throw in a day or two hangboarding to replace one of the climbing days.

Thoughts?

The amount you are climbing and resting seems reasonable for your age and experience level. So that likely can stay the same. I would (strongly) advise against replacing climbing with hangboarding. At your level of experience and the grades you are climbing (based on ticklist), this would be ill-advised. The best gains at this point would come from the technical and tactical skills you gain by putting in quality efforts on a variety of climbs and boulders that are challenging for you. Strength will also come as a side benefit from all that hard bouldering.

If you feel plateaued in your current practices, I'd suggest tweaking some attribute of the climbing sessions, rather than replacing them with hangboarding. If your outdoor sport climbing days are mostly onsight-cruising, consider putting in time on a more-challenging project that takes you 5-10 tries. Or the opposite - if you are mostly projecting things that are at your limit, step back and re-build your base with some routes a couple grades easier. When bouldering, focus on quality of effort. Also consider changing the places you climb - going to new areas with different rock will reach you new skills. Or in the gym get out of the cave and do some more slab boulders (or vice versa) to work whatever style you are weakest at. Find partners who have good climbing and training tactics, and are consistently improving.  Ask them about what they are doing, have them critique you. This can be some valuable free coaching.

But don't replace skilled practice with hangboarding, especially not at your level. If you are desperate to include some hangboard time, a short, simple program to do each day (10 minutes of easy to moderate hangs every morning) is valuable as finger pre-hab, and also gives you some hangboarding background to build off in the future. Also include some pre-hab weights exercises to keep your shoulders healthy.

Dan Schmidt wrote:

What experience has led you to this conclusion? I'm quite familiar with both fingerboarding and board climbing, and board climbing translates significantly better to actual climbing than just fingerboarding. That's particularly true for newer and lower level climbers who need the practice more than the pure, isolated, neutral-wrist, overhead finger strength. It's not a question of avoiding fingerboarding, but putting it in its proper place as a supplement to climbing.

+1 to this. Bouldering teaches you movement skills, tactics, builds full body strength, and also makes your fingers stronger. Hangboarding just makes your fingers stronger. If you are at a point where you have maxed out the other attributes and just need optimized finger strength, then the hangboard is of great value. This is very unlikely for the 5.10 climber, and improving their climbing skills and experience (through quality practice, trying hard on a range of challenging routes, travelling to new areas, learning from better climbers) would be of greater value than a focused program to maximize finger strength.

Is there a specific reason as to why you are limit bouldering so much? 4x4's, Pyramid training, and a plethora of other training tools might be far more beneficial than hang boarding based on what you have provided

Dan Schmidt wrote:

What experience has led you to this conclusion? I'm quite familiar with both fingerboarding and board climbing, and board climbing translates significantly better to actual climbing than just fingerboarding. That's particularly true for newer and lower level climbers who need the practice more than the pure, isolated, neutral-wrist, overhead finger strength. It's not a question of avoiding fingerboarding, but putting it in its proper place as a supplement to climbing.

My experience, and that of all the strong boulderers I know, is that board climbing is overwhelmingly more valuable than fingerboarding. Between semi-structured board sessions and rigidly structured and programmed fingerboarding, I would take the board without a second thought. It's not even close.

Seems like you’re confusing the original topic with a “just fingerboarding” regimen, which is not what I’m suggesting, and there’s enough resources available that a newer climber should avoid campusing and hang boarding until they build up to it.

 I would not just hangboard or just climb to increase abilities, unless that’s what you want to do, personal choice I suppose, but I don’t foresee “maxing out strength” in any other facet and seeing the hangboard as a last option to increase finger strength...it should all be trained as equally as possible. Climbing strictly on my training wall is not going to 100% translate to an increase in my ability to climb real rock or in a gym, nor is just hangboarding going to fulfill experience I need on rock and on a training wall, and obviously I need that to test my progression. Altogether, they contribute to getting stronger overall. If I traded one for the other, then some other aspect is going to decline to a degree. I personally use a spray wall, Moonboard, campusboard, and fingerboard. Some are staying just as strong with no board and just hanging and doing weights. You don’t have to cruise professional athletes profiles very long to see that most find some hanging regiment useful if not necessary to their climbing progression and maintenance. 

D Elliot wrote:

Seems like you’re confusing the original topic with a “just fingerboarding” regimen, which is not what I’m suggesting, and there’s enough resources available that a newer climber should avoid campusing and hang boarding until they build up to it.

OP suggested replacing climbing with fingerboarding. I’m just suggesting replacing climbing with better and more structured climbing. You can sprinkle a bit of fingerboarding on top of that but like I said, that’s a marginal improvement. The big gains come from learning how to climb and how to structure an actual climbing training session (which boards make fairly straightforward).

Dan Schmidt wrote:

OP suggested replacing climbing with fingerboarding. I’m just suggesting replacing climbing with better and more structured climbing. You can sprinkle a bit of fingerboarding on top of that but like I said, that’s a marginal improvement. The big gains come from learning how to climb and how to structure an actual climbing training session (which boards make fairly straightforward).

He mentioned one day, not the entirety of his climbing. What board are you suggesting would best replace it? A system board where feet follow hands, fairly unrealistic to outdoor climbing? A spray wall would be the more straightforward option; however, both require building a wall, securing holds and setting effectively, including associated costs, which is not practical to everyone’s situation. A quality hangboard can be bought for below $100, and is an effective tool in any training regimen.
I don’t use the Moonboard to learn how to climb better, I use it to specifically train large moves, dynamic moves, and core tension on steep terrain. I use the spray wall to replicate sequences I specifically want to train, and set hard problems that can become easy-to-access projects without driving to the crag. The hangboard has been invaluable in increasing my finger strength in a controlled way that I can track, and I can test that against my projects without blowing a pulley or tendon going for a crimp I may have not been prepared for. This all contributes to better climbing.

I know many that choose to strictly spend their time at the crag day in and day out. If that’s someone’s choice, there’s no issue with it. There’s also board rats and gym rats, and that’s all they’re interested in. I just see more value in tracking raw data instead of throwing myself at an outdoor problem or board creation until I get it. There’s equal value in all of it.

D Elliot wrote:

He mentioned one day, not the entirety of his climbing. What board are you suggesting would best replace it? A system board where feet follow hands, fairly unrealistic to outdoor climbing? A spray wall would be the more straightforward option; however, both require building a wall, securing holds and setting effectively, including associated costs, which is not practical to everyone’s situation. A quality hangboard can be bought for below $100, and is an effective tool in any training regimen.
I don’t use the Moonboard to learn how to climb better, I use it to specifically train large moves, dynamic moves, and core tension on steep terrain. I use the spray wall to replicate sequences I specifically want to train, and set hard problems that can become easy-to-access projects without driving to the crag. The hangboard has been invaluable in increasing my finger strength in a controlled way that I can track, and I can test that against my projects without blowing a pulley or tendon going for a crimp I may have not been prepared for. This all contributes to better climbing.

I know many that choose to strictly spend their time at the crag day in and day out. If that’s someone’s choice, there’s no issue with it. There’s also board rats and gym rats, and that’s all they’re interested in. I just see more value in tracking raw data instead of throwing myself at an outdoor problem or board creation until I get it. There’s equal value in all of it.

Do you have any suggestions for how to track the data?  What do you track?  Hang times/weight?

Thank you all for your input, all super helpful.

I may build a wall sometime soon but I will have too look at cost, it would be another great tool to have for sure. 

I do two sessions a day, where a session involves looking at my hangboard, and then deciding I'm too tired.

John W wrote:

Do you have any suggestions for how to track the data?  What do you track?  Hang times/weight?

Thank you all for your input, all super helpful.

I may build a wall sometime soon but I will have too look at cost, it would be another great tool to have for sure. 

I just keep a simple journal of my training phases (changes every 4 weeks) and compare the current data to past. For someone with little to no experience hangboarding, adding weight initially is unnecessary; you need to build your finger strength up and get your fingers used to the repeated load that you’re subjecting them to, very gradually. Many programs will start on a 20mm edge for 5-10 seconds and establish a baseline to build from. Unfortunately, many are vague in how to progress, how much is too much or too soon, etc and people injure themselves the same as on a campus board, so this is the time to take note of how things feel, if you’re pushing the limit (straining), and proper form. There’s tons of apps or YouTube clips on beginning a program and tracking data...basically you’re recording how long you’re hanging, how many reps/sets, weight added (later), for each session, and comparing that to your baseline of where you started as you progress. Then you revisit the baseline test to see where your new baseline threshold is, add weight when comfortable, rinse and repeat. It’s not difficult to do or follow; it’s those who rush to add weight or build strength fast, get injured and then sit out for weeks and you’re back to square one. This is also prevalent on system boards...a little common sense, patience and listening to your body goes a long way.