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Considering relocating to Butte, MT

Original Post
Etha Williams · · Twentynine Palms, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 349

I have a one-year fellowship to finish my dissertation, which I can write from anywhere, and have been looking at possible places to relocate to. Priorities include good climbing & skiing, lower cost of living, uniqueness compared to your typical destination outdoors town, and a climbing/outdoors community that actually feels like a community. Butte seems like it could be a great place for those things! I'd be curious to hear, here or via PM, about the experiences of folks who live or have lived there--what you like about it, any drawbacks, any things you wished you'd known before deciding to move or stay there, etc. Thanks!

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Keep winter in mind. The smaller cities in the west, and the less populated states, are often much harder for travel. Everything is a LOT farther away, and far fewer options for highways 

That said, Bozeman has hyalite ice! No idea about rock, if it's any good, but that's too notch ice to help get through the long winters.

If you end up in striking distance of Boise, or travel through, I'd love to meet you!

Best, Helen

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

lots of climbing near butte but not a large community. lots of small ski areas near by so you're bound to get your fill skiing. if you're looking for a remote rocky mountain town, what about lander? lots more climbing, but i don't know about skiing

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2

Its been a while since I passed thru Butte, but maybe its got better since then.  However, it would be easy to come up with a list of many other better towns in the area.  If you like red hats, then it might work out.  

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2

I'm also wondering if you are aware that Butte is a superfund site.  You might want to read about that.

Jacob Bretz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 45

Butte is in an interesting location for sure. I lived in Dillon, MT--an hour south--last summer and I have to say the rock is relatively limited compared to other towns in the Rockies. There's good sport nearby and Pipestone has some decent stuff, but I wouldn't move there for the climbing. That being said, Lost Trail is maybe the closest ski hill and it's freaking rad--albeit small. Plus, Butte itself is sort of gnarly, with the poison lake and everything. Just my two cents

Chris Mak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 516

Good podcast on the superfund site issues:

https://buttepodcast.org/

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Somerville to Butte is about as much of a culture shock as I can picture while staying in the USA. I lived in Somerville while I was doing medical school in Boston. Butte still has a lot of the “Old Montana” vibe from when I was growing up. It’s not quite the hippy-go-home scene my dad describes from the 70s, but still has a much more working-class vibe than what Bozeman or Missoula are like now. A large part of downtown was pushed into the open pit, and the Golden Sunshine mine down the road is still operating as far as I know. There’s good bouldering, good backcountry climbing at Humbug Spires, and lots of other less-travelled crags to poke around at. Discovery is a sweet little ski area. The Speedway has a kick-ass pork chop sandwich.

Winters are real. It’s cold as shit, and the scariest, most sphincter-clenching drives I’ve ever had are coming up and over Homestake Pass. There’s no road salt, and while you may think you’ve experienced winter driving living in New England, just trust me, it does not compare. There are no snow days for school—only days where it’s so cold the diesel gels in the busses; after coaxing my car to life in 35 below, I once froze my palm to the gearshift.

If you want less expensive and more “Montana” than Bozeman and Missoula, but perhaps less rough around the edges than Butte, check out Helena. I miss Montana every day, and would definitely try to go back if my fiancée would tolerate the cold; she won’t.

Shane F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Butte can be a lot of fun to visit. As for good skiing, you will have to drive to Discovery ski area (probably my favorite small ski hill). Climbing is okay. Cost of living is cheap.

Another option in the area is Helena. Also less expensive than other Montana towns (Bozeman!). Personally I like the climbing around Helena better, limestone sport. Access to skiing isn't any better or worse than Butte. Still on I-15 and has an okay airport. Helena is a little less "old school" Montana but still has a conservative bent. If you are into mountain biking, Helena is a great choice.

As for climbing community, Butte has very little that I know of (not that I have spent much time in the area to meet the community). Helena has a small bouldering gym that will make it easier to meet people.

Edit: I lived in Helena for a while and have friends that are from and still live in Butte.

Kurt HR Krueger · · Missoula, MT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 521

I was lived in Butte for awhile. Worked on the Butte climbing guide with Dwight and we had other areas not in the guide (think Maiden, Humbug, Lost Creek, etc - we never put all the routes in the guide). Lots of crack bouldering (see Kevin's and Tom's web site). There is more that enough rock. Good skiing at Discovery (have a cabin near there). About 40 miles away. Mountain biking is good on the Continental Divide Trail. We lived at nine mile and things were good at there. Old union town but still some redneck parts to it.

Lovena Harwood · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 435

Hi Etha, I only visited Bozeman in July 2019. Downtown has great places to eat and there's climbing, hiking, kayaking, camping, fishing in the Custer Gallatin National Forest, which is 20 minutes from Bozeman. There's an indoor climbing gym there as well. I'm not sure about skiing in Bozeman but Big Sky is an hour drive south.

Colton H · · Montana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

Stay out of Butte, Helena is a great option. Centrally located and great climbing within 15 mins on every point of the compass. Trad, sport, aid, bouldering; Helena has it all, and you don’t have to contend with crowds like you would in Bozeman. If you like ice then Hyalite is about 2 1/2 hours from Helena to the main trailhead in the dead of winter. Downsides are that Helena currently has shit for food and not much to do on a Friday night except play the slots and get drunk. If you truly spend the majority of your free time climbing or just getting after it outside, then Helena is a good option. If you go climb occasionally and generally spend your free time listening to bands and getting sloshed, move to Bozeman. Also Helena has a rad bike trail system that is literally in the middle of downtown. Don’t tell your friends how sweet MT is please, we aren’t trying to turn this great place into Colorado.

the grinch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

OP. Etha. Go to Bend Oregon. Great climbing. Great community. Ok skiing. Close to the real world. Butte is a thumbs down!

Etha Williams · · Twentynine Palms, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 349

Thanks, all! This is all super helpful information. I was aware of the superfund site issue but am maybe a little too good at convincing myself that I can live with suboptimal situations, haha.

Helena seems like a great option if I end up in MT. And OLH, I'll definitely let you know if I end up in or around Boise!

the grinch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Etha, Try Missoula MT. Close to everything. Climbing is OK. Skiing OK . Airport?
 

Josh Kirsch · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Dude go to Hamilton, MT

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I'd take Missoula or Bozeman wayyyy before Butte.  Pluses and minuses depending on which but both great towns

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2

On the other hand, living in Butte will give you hours of stories to tell the folks back in Boston. If you lived in Bozeman or Missoula, all you can say was "oh, it was okay".  But in Butte, the poison lake alone would be good for 20 minutes of talk at a party.

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 172

Park city, Ut has multiple superfund sites, doesn’t seem to stop anyone there....

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893

Why Montana ?  I'd think Idaho, northern Utah, or even eastern Washington would be in your possibilities.

Jason Mills · · Northwest "Where climbers g… · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 7,253

Like others have said, Helena may be a better choice. Every time I'm in Helena, I like that town a little more -- great trails right out of town, warmer, sunnier locale, really cool downtown, and limestone sport forever.

Only drawback is that the skiing is a little iffy. 

I work for the state government and am constantly thinking about transferring to another job in the capital to live in Helena ... except the whole skiing thing ...

If you're stoked on Montana, Kalispell may be a town worth looking into as well. Very conservative and narrow-minded (like Butte, maybe more-so, ugh) with great skiing, a ton of decent cragging, and that Glacier National Park place.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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