Sean B
·
Jun 26, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 2,755
I came across this amazing documentary named "Gaston Rébuffat : Étoile et tempête" filmed in 1955 and wanted to share it with the MP community. It is in French, but I'll try to capture the essence of it below. It is free to watch on youtube:
It follows the story of Maurice Baquet (in red), a French Cellist, who moved to Chamonix and met Gaston Rébuffat (in white), a renown alpinist. Gaston then acts as Maurice's guide and shows him the various techniques in rock climbing and alpinism. They then both go to conquer 6 of the highest peaks of the Alps all on film: Piz Badile, Grandes Jorasses, Cima Grande, Eiger, Cervin (Matterhorn), and Mont Blanc. Throughout the film, keep in mind that the premise is that Maurice is "learning". Therefore, he often adds Charlie Chaplin like movements for comical effect and to illustrate some of the principles that are being demonstrated.
Here are time stamps of the documentary with some of my comments:
0:00 Gaston Rébuffat's background and climbing in Calanque, Marseille (where Gaston is from) 6:00 Gaston walked by foot to Chamonix to become a guide. He meets Maurice and starts teaching him rock climbing basics. 14:50 Starts teaching in the mountains at "Col du midi". 19:50 This is where it gets interesting. They climb " Fissure Lepiney" (Lepiney crack) at "Aiguille du Peigne". Gaston demonstrated various offwidth techniques (cheminée), crack climbing (fissure), laybacking (Dulfer), and face climbing techniques. 26:00 Rope work and a tyrolian traverse. 27:40 Aid Climbing (artificielle or "artif") in the Dolomites. Notable mention: 32:45 aiding through a vertical roof. 35:26 Rappelling 38:30 Glacier climbing
Then, they start filming ascents. Throughout the film, Maurice gives commentary on the history of the climbs, first ascents, beta, fun anecdotes, and goes over more details of alpinism and climbing.
46:32 Piz Badile (3308m, Switzerland) Notable mention: 47:55 where they climb the massive rock face. 51:12 Grandes Jorasses' North Face (4208m, France) 55:48 Cima Grande North Face, Comici Route Notable mention: During the first ascension in 1933, Comici and co. wanted to make a push in a single day, but they ended up having to "bivy" on the route. They tied into a piton and stood in etriers all night long. His guide friends heard of this, and brought up instruments to the base of the route and played a little night time concert for the climbers. This is why Maurice had his cello out in the mountains earlier. 1:03:18 Eiger North Face (Switzerland) Notable mention: 1:10:00, they explain about the notorious weather of the Eiger's North Face. They ended up having to bail and show the process that they described as "perhaps more committing and dangerous than if they kept going". 1:12:30 Cervin North Face(known as Matterhorn in English) Notable mention: 1:16:45, they traverse and climb the North Face's ice fields. 1:20:00 Mont Blanc through the Italian Peuterey arete. Notable mention, they bivied overnight at 1:22:42
Special mention to Georges Tairraz who was the camera man. I just can't imagine what went into getting these images. Especially in 1955.
I hope you can enjoy this film as much as I have even if it is in French. I found the commentary to be the most interesting. Let me know if there are parts you'd like translated.