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What is your trad or sport climbing rack excluding protection.

Original Post
Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Hey,
I was wondering what do you guys usually carry on your harness besides normal protection like quick draws or trad protection? My current rack for relatively short less than a day single and multi pitch climbing from left to right is:
- 120cm sling for attaching light belayer.
- 60cm sling for making a lanyard if needed.
- Another 60cm sling for random use. Both have a small screw gate.
-Two medium size HMS screw gates for anchoring etc.
- Grigri. Good for climbing with single rope. Not that useful for double ropes or two followers.
- 240cm sling for trad anchors.
-Water bottle for long trad routes with a small screwgate.
-ATC and two HMS screwgates for belay.
-Ropeknife with a small screwgate.
-Two prusik's with one small screwgate each.
- Microtraction with a light HMS screwgate.
-Two 120cm slings for self rescue and extending pieces etc.


Is this too much? What do you think? I think I should probably shed few of those small screwgates and maybe just combine few of those slings, water bottle, knife etc. together.
Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Seems like a lot of redundancy. Youll know after a while what you use and dont use. Leave the stuff you dont use. Regardless of how much you bring, itll just be weight training.

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,349

That’s for sure more than I carry.  The only item that is 100% of the time consistently on my harness regardless of what kind of multipitch I’m doing is a wiregate with a very small amount of athletic tape around the spine, (for ‘locking’ non-locking carabiners) a Hollowblock, a tiny knife, and a microtrax.  Everything else depends on the larger context of the route, but is usually some variation of this:

120cm dyneema sling on a single locker for general use
Single belay device. (Usually a camp ovo with two lockers or a grigri with one)
Single locker for cloving in or a dedicated tether with locker if rope-solo-seconding.
1 anchor setup per person (usually a 240cm dyneema sling or a cordalette)
Sometimes I have an extra wiregate for the microtrax if I’m hauling pitches on a free climb 
Everything else (Prussiks, extra slings, lockers, etc. is redundant or better carried in a small pack. (Water)

Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 56

Wow. I think I counted 14 lockers in that photo you posted.

If this is your rack for "relatively short days," i.e. less than a full day, it seems like way too much to me.

I'd carry 3 lockers, maybe 4, haha. 

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

Don't forget yer nut tool

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Sport climbing the only thing I take is a Grigri.

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

All of your stuff could get used on some route or other. On one hand what you choose to carry is your affair, even if its more than you strictly need. So whatever you want, to a large extent.On the other load yourself too much and you might not be able to squeeze through that chimney and you may get to the end of every pitch of the route with most of that shit still hanging there on your harness, unused. If you didn't use it you didn't need it. Try eliminating any piece of gear you didn't use on your last outing, if you want.

I prefer to strip optional gear out of the equation.

  1. I would have a belay device and dedicated triple action harness locker. If grigri, I'd also have a reverso or similar for rapping. Would not typically take a grigri on a multi-pitch unless some over riding reason.
  2. A harness knife on its own micro-biner.
  3. A sling with a locker for harness-to-anchor clip-in duty. (no PAS, just a normal everyday sewn runner)
  4. Two extra "personal slings" with 2-biners on each (one locking, one non-locking). These are a concession to my main partner.
  5. Nut tool.
I don't carry chalk much any more or I'd include that. Everything else I'd consider community gear and part of the community rack.

Optionals include things like headlamp, descent shoes, etc. 
Zeb · · Athens, GA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 404

Why not rappel on your gri gri and pass on both of the prusik's :)? I used to bring pruskiks too, but then i started using my 60cm slings as a prusiks. They're not as smooth, but since i don't prusik regularly I don't mind.

I also bring 2x 120cm slings but i have mine on Camp nano 22 wire gate carabiners and can't say that i've ever wished they were lockers.

Anonanomanom Yerp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

If using a plate style device, there's definitely no need for more than three lockers (one for atc/one for guide mode masterpoint/one for your tether/clove). If you're climbing runout routes where a single protection point failure (i.e. freak accident of biner becomes unclipped) you can always double up opposite opposed nonlockers.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Yeah uh oh there's 16 lockers in the pic. Yikes :D Yeah I know it's overkill. That's why I asked. I do take beginners to climb quite often and they regularly forget their stuff on the ground. That's the reason for the extra HMS biner and extra prusik, but yeah I do carry way too many small srewgates.
-Nut tool goes in the nut rack or I give it to the second.
-I usually choose to carry either Grigri or ATC. They both really good in their own way.
-I have one wiregate dedicated for shoes and chalk. Maybe I should put that another prusik and knife and the water bottle there.

Brian Cooper · · Northern California · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 369

Instead of prussiks and extra slings, I include two nylon slings as a part of 2 of my alpine draws. These work as prussiks and won't melt if you use them as a third hand.

I think a lot of your extra slings are redundant if you consider that every alpine draw can be broken down into a sling for whatever off-nominal issue comes up.

Definitely a lot of lockers on your rack. I've had much fewer when carrying everything with two newbie climbers. By my count, all you need is:
1) Lower anchor master point locker
2) Personal clove hitch locker
3&4) ATC lockers
5) Upper anchor master point locker (since you'll need enough to build 2 anchors at a time for multi pitch)

And then I bring 2x 240 cm slings to make both anchors.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Max Tepfer wrote: That’s for sure more than I carry.  The only item that is 100% of the time consistently on my harness regardless of what kind of multipitch I’m doing is a wiregate with a very small amount of athletic tape around the spine, (for ‘locking’ non-locking carabiners) a Hollowblock, a tiny knife, and a microtrax.  Everything else depends on the larger context of the route, but is usually some variation of this:

120cm dyneema sling on a single locker for general use
Single belay device. (Usually a camp ovo with two lockers or a grigri with one)
Single locker for cloving in or a dedicated tether with locker if rope-solo-seconding.
1 anchor setup per person (usually a 240cm dyneema sling or a cordalette)
Sometimes I have an extra wiregate for the microtrax if I’m hauling pitches on a free climb
Everything else (Prussiks, extra slings, lockers, etc. is redundant or better carried in a small pack. (Water)

"Wiregate with a very small amount of athletic tape around the spine." Why not carry one small screwgate instead? What carabiner do you use with the microtrax? A dedicated one or just some random one? "Hollowblock, a tiny knife and camp ovo" These would be nice. "Sometimes I have an extra wiregate for the microtrax if I’m hauling pitches on a free climb" Is this for redundancy?

Andy Forquer · · Emeryville, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 5

Interesting thread --- I like the idea of reducing lockers but bringing tape to backup lockers.

For me at least, I think of the slings + wiregates as belonging with the protection/leader.  Seems like you can lose the dedicates prussiks in favor of slings in a rescue scenario.

Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Okay so I shaved about 325 grams. I do plan for rescue if someone needs one. Not necessary for the ultimate lightest setup, but too much is too much... This is the extra I shaved off. Yeah It's true that I can just break down alpine draws if I need 60 slings.


So is this still overkill?

Knife and water goes with shoes and chalk.
Cairn War Machine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 6

It really depends on the area and type of climbing doing.

Sport:
if there's permadraws already hung, its probably overhanging. So ill normally carry one or two draws and a hollow block cord. This allows me to boink up the rope easier, by using a draw as handle.

If it's more vertical I'll carry a belay device, Hollow block, anchor setup, bail biner, nut tool (has a built in wrench)

For sport multipitch I add to the above gear a micro trax and a small pully.

Trad multipitch:
Belay device, anchor setup, 5-6 extra wiregate biners, 2- D shape lockers, 2 pear shaped lockers,  nut tool, hollow block, left hand ascender, pully, u ascend,  5 meters-7mm anchor cord. (At least I think it's 5m...)
Hell there's probably something else I'm forgetting! 

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

As others have said, it seems like an awful lot of stuff...  My extras generally are:

A PAS with a locker, but that is because I've used one for a while and am just used to it.  It I were starting over I would use a simpler personal tether (1 locker).
Either a pre-tied quad (if there are bolted anchors) or a long cordalette (trad) either of them with 4 lockers (5 total).
My Alpine Smart with a spare locker for guide mode belaying (there are 2 more lockers, so 7 total)).
An ATC on a locker for multipitch just in case (funny, I have never dropped my main device but I have dropped my back-up ATC, so now 8 lockers).
A nut tool, but only for trad routes (comes with a tether and clip).
A water bottle for multipitch or if I am belaying from the top on a hot day (non-locker).

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175
Cairn War Machine wrote: Trad multipitch:
Belay device, anchor setup, 5-6 extra wiregate biners, 2- D shape lockers, 2 pear shaped lockers,  nut tool, hollow block, left hand ascender, pully, u ascend,  5 meters-7mm anchor cord. (At least I think it's 5m...)
Hell there's probably something else I'm forgetting!

Why so much? Are you hauling?

On an average cragging day (single or multipitch), I don't see the need for more than one belay device, one prussik, one anchor (cordo or long sling), and sometimes one extra sling + locker. All the things needed for self rescue are on the rack: slings, more biners, rope, etc. Add a tether if there are a ton of rappels.
Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

Give as much weight as possible to the follower, they are on top rope. You are leading.

I bring:

  • One 120 CM sling and a big locker on me for the anchor (I do a girth hitch anchor for 3 pieces). And the same for the follower.
  • Reverso and big locker for belaying/rapping. For sport and aid I belay with a grigri and bring the reverso for rapping.
  • Once small locker for my personal tether (I use the rope during climbing, and one of my two other 120 CM slings I bring as part the rack for a tether during rapping).
  • Two small lockers for the anchor. e.g. redirecting the second or attaching the reverso to the anchor in guide mode.
  • A non locking biner with 3 cord slings to build Prusiks. A very small, light knife. An 1/8 roll of tape for first aid, etc. Maybe a super light aluminum rap ring if I may need to bail.
  • Another cord sling and non locking biner for a third hard for rapping, or for emergency use.
So for trad I carry, 5 lockers, two non lockers, one sewn sling, 4 cord slings. A belay device. A knife and tape for emergencies. I bring my own nut tool in case I change my mind an need to clean a nut I placed.

Follower brings at least: their own 120 cm sling and locker for a tether. One of the anchor setups. A nut tool.
Heikki Pitkanen · · Joensuu · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Matt Himmelstein wrote: As others have said, it seems like an awful lot of stuff...  My extras generally are:

A PAS with a locker, but that is because I've used one for a while and am just used to it.  It I were starting over I would use a simpler personal tether (1 locker).
Either a pre-tied quad (if there are bolted anchors) or a long cordalette (trad) either of them with 4 lockers (5 total).
My Alpine Smart with a spare locker for guide mode belaying (there are 2 more lockers, so 7 total)).
An ATC on a locker for multipitch just in case (funny, I have never dropped my main device but I have dropped my back-up ATC, so now 8 lockers).
A nut tool, but only for trad routes (comes with a tether and clip).
A water bottle for multipitch or if I am belaying from the top on a hot day (non-locker).

Okay so now this should be good enough. Seven Lockers one wiregate. Optional Grigri prusik and 120 sling.

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

What is the micro trax for? Have you ever needed to use it? I mean I don't take beginners out often but I carry way, way less than is shown in even your updated image here. Do you regularly use all of these things?

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

Why even five? I have one for my ATC/grigri, one for anchoring myself, and one or two for misc. use. I have to double up non lockers sometimes, but not terribly often.

That being said, there is a point where the convenience of having a little more stuff is worth some more weight.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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