Best quiver of one multipitch assisted brake device

There's a bajillion belay devices available these days. Does one exist that can perform a double strand rappel, belay in guide mode and provides braking assist?

Note: this rules out the gri gri (yes, I know about reepschnur's/biner blocks) and plaquette style devices.

Gigajul. Why rule out the grigri though?

Edelrid Gigajul

Mammut Smart Alpine too. I dont think  the assisted is worth it as much as it is a pain in the ass. 

Ruling out the gri gri since it's heavy and rules out two strand rappelling.

How's belaying in guide mode with let's say a 9.6-9.8? More friction than an ATC-guide?

Would it work in a simul-ling scenario? I sometimes use a gri-gri as a second when simul-ing

F Loyd wrote: Mammut Smart Alpine too. I dont think  the assisted is worth it as much as it is a pain in the ass. 

So do you recommend the device as a single device to bring up a multipitch?

Anonanomanom Yerp wrote:

So do you recommend the device as a single device to bring up a multipitch?

Sort of. If the raps are minimal then yes. The problem is defeating the assisted mode when rappelling, it will wear you down over time. I use it in the gym only and a reverso most everywhere outside (or grigri if partner is gonna hang). In simul you can use the guide mode off the hip (alpine grigri) I guess but depends on your teams preference. 

GriGriandastandardATCforrappelling

Does that count as one?

grigri

I just started using a Gigajul and it does everything you're looking for. Assisted braking when belaying on double ropes is a bonus.

How well does a gigajul work with roughly 9.5 mm ropes? I’ve heard there is significantly more friction than a reverso/ATC Guide when in guide mode on similarly sized single ropes 

Smart Alpine
I rap with it in ATC mode - you simply reverse the device, and no braking/locking to defeat. If I need it, I add an autoblock.
Belays smoother than an ATC guide in guide mode when using thicker ropes. Big difference.
I'm hoping they'll release a Smart Alpine 2.0 - my partner uses the Smart 2.0 for lead belaying me and it is an upgrade in handling/smoothness and braking over the original Smart.

The mammut alpine smart is a great devise that does all that you are asking if you use it right .  The climb tech alpine click up works for everything you want as well- I find it works really well but is a bit more fiddle to start out with. 

Alpine up or gigajul..

The Gigajul is pretty decent. I've tried it on an old 9.8 and it's not terrible. Wouldn't be my first choice of rope/device combo for a longer day, but functional. Use a round stock biner. Rap in normal ATC mode. On a 9.0 it works fine, pretty close to a reverso or maybe even a touch easier.

I have used a MegaJul for a couple years now, and like it well enough. You can rap in non-assist mode to speed things up, otherwise it is hard to lower smoothly.  Good with 7.9mm to 10.5mm ropes. My trad rope is a 9.4mm Sterling, and it works well.

If your interested, me and my climbing partner both have grigris and when we rap down we just both hook on to opposite ends of the rope to counter weight the other person and shoot down that way. You set it up like a double strand and everything and it works great if you and your partner are approximately the same weight (40ish pound different between me and my partner)

The Edelrid MegaJul checks all the boxes you're looking for, but I just can't bring myself to recommend it for everyday use. I like it for alpine since I can give an assisted lead belay on twin/half ropes and it's super light. For sport climbing the smoothness is nowhere near as good as a grigri and it's a pain to let rope out once it's weighted. Belaying in guide mode on a thick rope is a pain and way less smooth than a BD ATC guide. I haven't used a GigaJul yet, maybe those issues are resolved with the newer device.

Since 2012, I've exclusively used the Alpine Up.  With a minor work-around to start free-hanging rappels, the locking feature is great.  However, I only use double 8.5 mil ropes, and think that it would be too aggressive if you use thicker ones.

Nash Ward wrote: If your interested, me and my climbing partner both have grigris and when we rap down we just both hook on to opposite ends of the rope to counter weight the other person and shoot down that way. You set it up like a double strand and everything and it works great if you and your partner are approximately the same weight (40ish pound different between me and my partner)

and if you don't think about the consequences, sure its just that easy/safe

Matt N wrote:

and if you don't think about the consequences, sure its just that easy/safe

As long as you have good knots tied in the bottom of your rope the worst thing that could happen is one person gets down quicker and has to lower the other person.