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Bolted anchors at Peterskill

Original Post
Luca S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

Hey Everyone,

With the latest news that Minnewaska State Park is opening to climbing, me and some friends are itching to get out there for some top roping sometime next month. I'm pretty new to building anchors and only have experience using bolted anchors at Moss Island in Little Falls, NY. Seeing as I have no experience or enough gear to build anchors on trees, does anyone know if there are enough routes with bolted anchors on top to keep us occupied for a weekend? Or should I learn how to use trees for anchors? I definitely do plan on learning at some point in the future but I'd like a little more experience with bolted anchors before I branch out.

EDIT: It appears the article I read was only for the Mohonk Preserve and I mistakenly assumed it meant Peterskill too. I'm now aware they are not the same thing but nonetheless this information would still be nice to know when Peterskill does reopen

Sam Rumel · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 15

Tree Anchors are pretty straightforward. This Youtube video does a good job of going into it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF1gmzkt0Mg.. It's a bit overkill but it's better to learn the more rigorous anchor and then dial it back. 

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,443
Luca S wrote: Hey Everyone,

With the latest news that Minnewaska State Park is opening to climbing

Source? I've only head the Mohonk Preserve is opening

Luca S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0
Sam Rumel wrote: Tree Anchors are pretty straightforward. This Youtube video does a good job of going into it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF1gmzkt0Mg.. It's a bit overkill but it's better to learn the more rigorous anchor and then dial it back. 

Okay yeah that is pretty straightforward, thank you for the link. Right now I have a 30ft rope I've been using to tie quads and stuff. Is that usually long enough or should I pick up something longer?


EDIT
I'm editing this post because the system wont let me post another so quickly due to my account being new, but yes it looks like you're right. I must have been confused and thought it was both. Hopefully Peterskill follows suit.
Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

The Minnewaska website still says that it is closed for climbing and bouldering. I am unaware of any announcements saying otherwise, but would be happy to be corrected.  

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 57
Luca S wrote: Hey Everyone,

With the latest news that Minnewaska State Park is opening to climbing, me and some friends are itching to get out there for some top roping sometime next month. I'm pretty new to building anchors and only have experience using bolted anchors at Moss Island in Little Falls, NY. Seeing as I have no experience or enough gear to build anchors on trees, does anyone know if there are enough routes with bolted anchors on top to keep us occupied for a weekend? Or should I learn how to use trees for anchors? I definitely do plan on learning at some point in the future but I'd like a little more experience with bolted anchors before I branch out.

Just remember the protocol for free anchors there. A lot of people don’t seem to follow or care.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Luca S wrote:

Okay yeah that is pretty straightforward, thank you for the link. Right now I have a 30ft rope I've been using to tie quads and stuff. Is that usually long enough or should I pick up something longer?

There are lots of set-ups at PK that require something closer to 50 feet.

The guidebook lists all the bolted anchors except the few atop the Kadeejha Wall that went in recently.
Climberdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

For some reason I thought using trees for anchors at peterskill was prohibited.

Ericsplosion II · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 246
Luca S wrote: Hey Everyone,

With the latest news that Minnewaska State Park is opening to climbing, me and some friends are itching to get out there for some top roping sometime next month. I'm pretty new to building anchors and only have experience using bolted anchors at Moss Island in Little Falls, NY. Seeing as I have no experience or enough gear to build anchors on trees, does anyone know if there are enough routes with bolted anchors on top to keep us occupied for a weekend? Or should I learn how to use trees for anchors? I definitely do plan on learning at some point in the future but I'd like a little more experience with bolted anchors before I branch out.

There is no current news on Peterskill opening unless you have information from some other source.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Luca S wrote: Hey Everyone,

With the latest news that Minnewaska State Park is opening to climbing, me and some friends are itching to get out there for some top roping sometime next month. I'm pretty new to building anchors and only have experience using bolted anchors at Moss Island in Little Falls, NY. Seeing as I have no experience or enough gear to build anchors on trees, does anyone know if there are enough routes with bolted anchors on top to keep us occupied for a weekend? Or should I learn how to use trees for anchors? I definitely do plan on learning at some point in the future but I'd like a little more experience with bolted anchors before I branch out.

Climberdude wrote: For some reason I thought using trees for anchors at peterskill was prohibited.

Doesn't anyone try to find info on their own anymore? From the main Peterskill page right here on MP:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105896719/peterskill

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected.
 
 If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.
 
 According to Jorge Gomes, Assistant Park Manager at Minnewaska State Park (MSPP): MSPP does not require padding around trees, but they would however appreciate the use of it if possible. Using unpadded trees and pitch pines is allowed, but MSPP requests you use them in ways that does not cause the tree any damage. The use of static rope, slings, webbing, and cordellettes around trees is acceptable as long as they don't move around to cut/burn into the tree. Unacceptable: pulling your rope from rappelling directly off a tree (meaning no anchor between the tree and your rope), or using girth hitches (constricting around the trunk possibly breaking off bark).
   
 Some of the routes at Peterskill have bolt anchors (Bunk Arete, Reach Around/Crack-a-lack, Captain's Log/Kling-On/Hanky/TP, The Scrotem Pole, Floops/Oops, Yellow Wallpaper and Psycho Cracks, Chalkboard wall, Skink, Fickle Fingers, Golden Dreams). Other than these, you'll have to build gear anchors. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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