Nylon vs Dynema Slings

Bottom Line:  Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema.

This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but  people like Dyneema because it's less bulky as sold and some other benefits.  It seems like it would be better to use less bulky nylon, but it would not meet the 22 kN (~5,000 lb) static, but perhaps it would be more practical.  The 22 kN requirement seems arbitrary since I would not use Dyneema for high angle rescue.  

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=https%3A%2F%2Fdmmclimbing.com%2FKnowledge%2FJune-2010%2FHow-to-Break-Nylon-Dyneema%C2%AE-Slings&s=l

from Imgflip Meme Generator

So the idea is:
Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user.

I guess maybe...I think we'd have to understand how the 22kN figure was arrived. Possibly it was just made up by some authority as something high enough that it ought to safe enough. Maybe it can be dropped a lot without much change to the number of users falling out of the sky.

It's not a super interesting safety concern for me, I and most people I know have no issues trading weight for an item that shouldn't be fallen on. There's also the wet/frozen side of materials in climbing, but I live in a flat warm place.

Both are strong enough to not worry about and dynema skinny slings are so much nicer to use. The important rule is you shouldn't be putting yourself in a situation where you could be falling on either. It's fun to nerd out on this stuff, but it gets to the point that strength just doesn't matter anymore and ergonomics is the decider.

I feel like this comes up every month or so, the solution to not taking a potentially dangerous fall factor 2 fall onto a dyneema sling is: don't take a fall factor 2 fall onto a dyneema sling, it's not difficult. If you want a skinnyish nylon sling just use edelrid tech webbing and ask your self, why does a sling need to be dynamic?

Again?

Please use the search function.

Here's a recent thread on the same topic which has a bunch of useful information:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119015135/dyneema-vs-nylon-force-generated-on-factor-1-2-fall

Kyle Tarry wrote: Here's a recent thread on the same topic which has a bunch of useful information:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119015135/dyneema-vs-nylon-force-generated-on-factor-1-2-fall 

Yes, I red through that thread and while most of the content is the same, this is different:

Bottom Line:  Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema.

We used to use 9/16” nylon super tape slings. Loop sewn strength around 19 kn. Handled like a dream.  Knotting slings, especially single strand, can drop strength a lot. You are looking at 5-6 kn for dynema or supertape. 1” tube can hold double that.

1/4" tape was a thing BITD.

Joseph Brody wrote: Yes, I red through that thread and while most of the content is the same, this is different:

Bottom Line:  Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema.

Bottom line is, sling don't need to be dynamic and certainly don't need to be any cheaper. I'm consistently shocked whenever I go buy sling (all dyneema) at just how cheap they are.

that guy named seb wrote:

Bottom line is, sling don't need to be dynamic and certainly don't need to be any cheaper. I'm consistently shocked whenever I go buy sling (all dyneema) at just how cheap they are.

Me too, I don't destroy them quick enough to care if I am spending $5-8 per sling. They last me five years usually unless they get cut....which means they did their job. Same goes for ropes, I have one I noticed after climbing Sunday I will have to trim about 10 feet off due to a sheath getting abraded to the point where you can see core. Did its job.