Anyone can climb V10/5.14-

So, working from home, I've been tearing through the Power Company podcast, and in an older episode from May 2017 the panel is in consensus that given an athletic disposition, and adequate training, time, diet and rest, any average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-. Obviously these guys have some experience with training weekend warrior type climbers, so what do you think? Makes me feel like a weak, lazy chuffer...Which I am.

Sounds right to me. 

Nope.

I think an "average climber" would need to start on that journey at a fairly youngish age and also have the genetics to make that level of climbing possible.

This could maybe be true for the average (or perhaps, median) motivated climber, with caveats - a lot of things need to go right in terms of time, opportunity, training, etc. But it is sloppy reasoning to then extrapolate to say that this means anyone. Whatever the median is, half of climbers maximum potential ability will be less than that, and some of them a lot less than that.

By definition, a 5.14 climber isn't average. You need above average motivation, athleticism, and favorable genetics in order to climb that grade. I think those folks are so used to working with talented/motivated/hard people that their definition of average has been skewed.  

On the flip side, I can think of 11 climbers off the top of my head, who I know well personally, who have climbed at that level. Most of these have kids, careers, etc. Only three can be considered current or former elites.

I think that V10 and 5.14- are possible for your “average” athletic person. That is, someone who grew up playing sports and has always been in at least decent shape. I actually think a much bigger barrier to these grades is the level of dedication required as opposed to natural physical ability. For almost everyone, climbing 5.14 is going to require a very high level of dedication — specific training, focused diet, etc. Most people either don’t care enough to work that hard or somewhere along the road they lose the motivation. 

JCM wrote: Whatever the median is, half of climbers maximum potential ability will be less than that, and some of them a lot less than that.

Problem is very few people think they are below average (median).

IMHO most of the reason people cant climb V10 or 5.14 is because they aren't trying hard. Trying hard when climbing, when training, or just in general. Even if you have an hour a day, these things are way possible. But, I will say getting there is probably a lot more fun if you have a good gym and some free time on your hands. Not that I've climbed 5.14. But I can see how it is possible. 

Anything is possible. Its up to your mind and how bad you want it. I think that goes for all sports, there are always those guys who are smaller or don't have the perfect physique for a sport who still make it to a professional level, usually they have a strong work ethic, dont have the word "can't" in there vocabulary, and don't take no for an answer.

Frank Stein wrote: So, working from home, I've been tearing through the Power Company podcast, and in an older episode from May 2017 the panel is in consensus that given an athletic disposition, and adequate training, time, diet and rest, any average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-. Obviously these guys have some experience with training weekend warrior type climbers, so what do you think? Makes me feel like a weak, lazy chuffer...Which I am.

Might be true biologically, but the average climber doesn't have (or make) enough of the bolded prerequisite...

If it were demonstrably proven that if you followed a strict diet and training regimen for...say 20 hours a week for 3 years would get you to 5.13, could/would you?

I wouldn't. And couldn't, without spousal/parental neglect.

Anyone met a 5.14 climber that didnt start climbing in their teens or very early 20s?

That'd be cool

Frank Stein wrote: So, working from home, I've been tearing through the Power Company podcast, and in an older episode from May 2017 the panel is in consensus that given an athletic disposition, and adequate training, time, diet and rest, any average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-. Obviously these guys have some experience with training weekend warrior type climbers, so what do you think? Makes me feel like a weak, lazy chuffer...Which I am.

If you have athletic disposition, adequate training, etc, you are already not an average climber.

I do agree with their premise, but  I think it can be expressed differently, to be more accurate: A LOT MORE PEOPLE can climb these grades, than are actually climbing these grades. The athletic ability that is required to attain this level is not nearly as rare/high as many people believe.

Kyle M wrote: Anything is possible. Even though you’ve been flailing on 12b for a decade, you could surely climb 15b if you just try harder and tweak your training.

With that attitude you'll still be flailing on a 12.b next decade.

I know people that have been climbing consistently for decades that can barely lead 5.10, so no, thats not even remotely close to reality, especially if you start climbing in middle age. Id say a more achievable goal is 5.12, that most people with normal lives can get to that level without sacrificing their job or family. 

What's often overlooked is the personality traits of an individual. Whatever Adam Ondra's physical gifts he has, I doubt anyone here come close to his drive & determination. A lot of people couldn't muster it if their lives depend on it, others don't need an iota of motivation. This is a genetic gift, and is pretty much a pre-requisite at the highest level.

I'm not sure an average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-. Having done that while starting to climb as a 28 yr old, it doesn't seem remarkable to me (after all, I have a friend that started climbing in his mid-20's and sent V13 before he turned 30). But I digress...

I believe statements like "anyone can..." are mostly meant to inspire, and how you react to it (dismissive, doubtful, inspired, etc) is much more telling.

The denial of genetic variation by basically everyone involved in climbing training is dazzling. It seems nothing matters except the nebulous "try harder". 

reboot wrote: What's often overlooked is the personality traits of an individual. Whatever Adam Ondra's physical gifts he has, I doubt anyone here come close to his drive & determination. A lot of people couldn't muster it if their lives depend on it, others don't need an iota of motivation. This is a genetic gift, and is pretty much a pre-requisite at the highest level.

I'm not sure an average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-. Having done that while starting to climb as a 28 yr old, it doesn't seem remarkable to me (after all, I have a friend that started climbing in his mid-20's and sent V13 before he turned 30). But I digress...

I believe statements like "anyone can..." are mostly meant to inspire, and how you react to it (dismissive, doubtful, inspired, etc) is much more telling.

How many years did it take you? I know one person climbing v11 after three years, but the majority of people I know after 3-years of weekly gym sessions are just getting into the 5.11/v4 range. 

Also, I'm dabbling in v7 climbing now but my hardest roped climb is still .12a trad.. who are these people that their rope grade is actually on par with their bouldering grades?

I think it helps to be a self-absorbed obsessive Type-A.  I'm not saying all V10/5.14- climbers are like this, just all of them except my friend Robert.  (yes, I'm jealous and need some lunch)

Frank Stein wrote: ....... that given an athletic disposition, and adequate training, time, diet and rest, any average climber can attain the level of V10/5.14-.......

Sounds like a sales pitch for sweet online training programs that they sell, but hey you also get to participate in the craze of videoing yourself break a banana in half now, so there is that added bonus.  

More on topic, I disagree.

Yuri Rodea wrote: Anyone met a 5.14 climber that didnt start climbing in their teens or very early 20s?

That'd be cool

https://stephdavis.co/blog/climbing-and-age-limits/ 

The guy mentioned in this post, Lee Sheftel, starting climbing at 33 and redpointed his first 5.14a at age 59. I think he's sent a 5.14b since then.

i'm sure he's got some advantages, such as being able to climb regularly at Rifle, but still awesome nonetheless.