Best solo route up the Grand?

So with Grand Teton National Park only allowing day use currently, I figured this period could be a good time to project a 1 day ascent of the Grand.  I have no partner, though, so I'm thinking of doing it solo (social distancing etc., plus it's a good excuse for what I think will be a really rewarding project anyhow).  I'm wondering what would be the best route for a free solo ascent of the Grand?  

About me: I have a fair amount of trad experience, I can usually flash ~5.11a sport climbs, and I've done some easy solos in the past, but seldom or never in a situation with super high consequences for falling, so the main difficulty I anticipate with the Grand is the head game.  I've never done the Grand before, and so my plan would be to work progressively higher up the mountain over the course of several weekends, so that I can build familiarity with the area and get comfortable with soloing.  

Some things I'm considering:
* It seems like maybe Exum might be psychologically easier than Owen Spalding, since the only very exposed part is the corner at the end of Wall Street, vs. the long Belly Crawl on OS.  But maybe this is not a big deal once you get used to the height?
* OS I gather is faster than Exum, which would be nice for a car to car trip.
* I'll have to downclimb, so whichever route I go with should be doable in reverse too.

I welcome any and all recommendations on this idea.  

Easiest solo this time of year I would think could be the Stettner to the Ford to the Chevy.  

The exposed Belly Roll/Crawl on the OS is not that long, and very easy climbing.

http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/  << This website should have ALL the information you need on the OS and/or Exum Ridge.

Being south facing the upper Exum in traditional style this time of year is fine after a few good days in the sun. I solo'd it one April when it still had snow after doing the lower Exum. The bigger issue is getting down (or going up) the OS, even with a rope is veriglass. Especially during the early part of June. That said if you have never been on the Grand before figuring out the approach to the Exum and the OS descent from/to the Lower Saddle while not hard is not straight forward.

As for the couloirs mentioned above, definitely want a cold spell as they do tend to flush this time of year. But if you hit it right, they are very skiable.

Wait till later in the season (July). Go up the upper Exum, then down the OS. Do your research and the routefinding isn't too difficult. There will likely be hoards of people there anyway. It's a great day out when you don't have to carry a rope and gear all the way up that peak!

If you can't wait until July, then downclimbing upper Exum wouldn't be too bad. Don't try the OS in Tennies in June.

If you have to ask...

Please do keep in mind that you will not be able to self arrest once the snow warms up.  Every year sees a big rescue or three in the Tetons when the snow gets sloppy.  Makes it way more likely to slip too.

Why not bring a skinny rope, harness and atc? Then just do the normal raps... I have only done the upper exum, twice. I have no experience with the OS. The upper exum is very straight forward. 

solo some 5.6s at your local crag first. I know tons of folks who can climb 5.11 spurt but can't solo a 5.6 …   get in really good shape. then get in better shape.  6mmtag and an ultra light harness for the raps. you can also daisy solo the belly move with a red camalot and the ultra light harness. 

Ryan K wrote: If you have to ask...

We should all be more concerned with those who don't ask but should ;).

HS: I might be up next week. If you want a one day ascent on a solo run and don't mind some first-hand experience at your side, feel free to drop me a message. New snow is expected over the weekend so it may take a few days to let that settle and then find a good day to climb (and a day when I am not working). Expect more snow than ice. 

If you want to be socially distant, consider the Owen-Spalding as your first choice. Given your lack of experience and the fact that you wish to free-solo down, that is your best option if you are truly intent on an summit. Nothing wrong with the Upper Exum in June but it has more uncontrollable snow hazards to manage in warming weather; and time wise, it may delay your departure down the mountain to beat afternoon weather (often not in the forecast). People tend to travel at a pace that's much slower than they planed for under mixed conditions. DO NOT FREE SOLO DOWN THE UPPER EXUM IN JUNE. Gives me the willies thinking you might do that.

Everyone knows that mixed conditions can be challenging and more lethal for free soloing climbers. It's a serious and sometimes life-threatening undertaking but not a difficult climb up the OS (climbing skills wise).

You do need to be in very good shape. Experience with crampons and an ice axe is highly recommended (self-arrest skills/climbing with crampons).

Best of luck with your adventures and safe travels.

PS: Everyone is different, and not everyone has wisdom to share that meets your needs to a T, or is all that wise.

My party did the Upper Exum in August and only roped up for the scary part on Wall Street. We descended via OS and found plenty of ice that would not have made us happy had we not been rapping. Of course, every year is different.

Nick Goldsmith wrote: solo some 5.6s at your local crag first. I know tons of folks who can climb 5.11 spurt but can't solo a 5.6 …

This.

Flashing 5.11a sport is one thing, but soloing even 5.4 on exposed terrain where a fall would be hundreds of feet is something else entirely. I mean no smugness in this; I usually flail on 5.11. But it's a different game mentally and physically when you're unroped on Class 5 terrain on a mountain.

Cant you essentially straddle the entire belly crawl section? Its been a couple years since I downclimbed the OS, but if memory serves me correct it was super safe...

The step over on wall street on the other hand is actually super exposed and not as straight forward as a climber who is new to the alpine may like.

Why not wait until august and go climb the OS when conditions are guaranteed to be good?

Mike-Mayhem wrote: Cant you essentially straddle the entire belly crawl section? Its been a couple years since I downclimbed the OS, but if memory serves me correct it was super safe...

The step over on wall street on the other hand is actually super exposed and not as straight forward as a climber who is new to the alpine may like.

Why not wait until august and go climb the OS when conditions are guaranteed to be good?

The Belly Roll (the Crawl follows it with a ledge in between) is not really an issue on the OS as compared to the chimney above which can hold ice for a long time. And as I noted veriglass is more often an issue. The step over on the Exum, though exposed is pretty straightforward. But waiting until conditions are primo would be a good call for someone who has never been on the hill before.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

The Belly Roll (the Crawl follows it with a ledge in between) is not really an issue on the OS as compared to the chimney above which can hold ice for a long time. And as I noted veriglass is more often an issue. The step over on the Exum, though exposed is pretty straightforward. But waiting until conditions are primo would be a good call for someone who has never been on the hill before.

only 25 years old and my memory is already foggy... 

Allen Sanderson wrote:

 And as I noted veriglass is more often an issue. The step over on the Exum, though exposed is pretty straightforward. But waiting until conditions are primo would be a good call for someone who has never been on the hill before.

Verglas is more likely to be an issue on the lower mountain currently. There's plenty of good-traveling snow covering last fall's ice on the upper mountain. With recent upper-elevation snow and colder temps, I would take the bet that it will be pretty easy to travel above 12,000' for the experienced mountaineer. Ice from last fall can be exposed in many places but it's fairly easy to manage on easy terrain for that experienced mountaineer. Icy snow can be a hazard, certainly. Dozens of ski mountaineering parties have been skiing the Teton backcountry's peaks since the reopening of the backcountry. No need to minimize the danger, but there is a certain tendency to overstate the impossibility of a successful summit for ambitious mountaineers.

It would not surprise me to see verglas at the end of Wall Street and challenging conditions to get there. That flat expanse collects icy conditions. As for it being "straightforward ", it depends on the party and conditions. Glenn Exum jumped over the exposure because getting past the step across wasn't obvious to him during the first ascent of the Upper Exum. Nowadays, it just seems straightforward unless you're an inexperienced mountaineer (which Glenn really was by today's standards).

It really depends on when you go...upper exum clears snow and ice quickly.  I was in GTNP for an extended period this time two years ago, there is still a considerable amount of snow travel to contend with to make it to anything on the Grand.   In my opinion routefinding on that side isn't hard if you study it a bit, it would be getting used to healthy exposure on snow/ice over no-fall terrain that you should worry about. Considering few people without skis go down the Grand any other way than the OS and it keeps ice and snow well into summer every year, understanding how to get down without falling down the Black Ice Couloir is pretty important.  

luke smith wrote: It really depends on when you go...upper exum clears snow and ice quickly.  

Considering few people without skis go down the Grand any other way than the OS and it keeps ice and snow well into summer every year, understanding how to get down without falling down the Black Ice Couloir is pretty important.  

Upper Exum still has ice and snow but it is a lot cleaner than the OS. That is true. The snow field that extends from the Ford Couloir to the V-Pitch won't burn off anytime soon, ice is still in the Wind Tunnel, etc. 

As I suggested earlier, the OS is the best route for an inexperienced mountaineer who clearly has the basic climbing skills to make the summit. In part, that suggestion is made because route finding on a descent is easier...just follow your bootpack (there is often a bootpack to follow up the mountain but not always at the start of June). 

As for falling to your death, it's a possibility anywhere including the approach.

Where are you located currently?

When are you planning on being in GTNP? 

Do you have any mountain experience? Snow/ice? Navigating?