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La Sportiva Solution Comp - opinions

Original Post
Andrzej Gorecki · · Derby · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Hello,

Anybody had a chance to try new Sportiva’s Solution Comp? What would they compare best with? I climbed in the original Solutions for a year and found them really good, especially because they are stiffer than my order shoes (Skwamas, Testarossa’s). From the reviews it sounds like they are basically pointier Testarossa’s with velcro and the stiffness „advantage” is gone...

X C · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 72

I have them and am glad. They compare best with a very broken in pair of solutions. They are softer feeling than the skwama and obviously a completely different shape. Although I suppose they are a similar stiffness to the testarossa, they don't feel similar or redundant to me. They are my new favorite for very steep climbing. Like I said, to me they feel most similar to a pair of very broken-in solutions just before I would send them to the resoler.
They wouldn't be my choice for sustained edging, but they excel on anything smeary or pockety and steep.

Edit to add: I think the increased softness of the solution comp is a product of the softer, less structured heel rather than from a softer midsole or forefoot. The shoe (mine are still pretty new, maybe 15-20 pitches) doesn't feel mushy like a slipper when toeing down, and is similar under the toe to a normal solution, but flexes a lot more throughout the whole foot and gives more when smearing.

Andrzej Gorecki · · Derby · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks a lot, that’s really helpful!

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Hows the sizing? Compared to the old solution?  

Rocco · · The Road, USA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 9

I'll second everything mentioned above and say that the shoe feels a bit less "structured" than the OG Solution. Softening everything and using thinner toe rubber gave these a more sock like fit with the added precision of the Solution.
A couple thoughts on sizing: I wear the same size in both the Comp and the OG Solution. The Comp feels a bit tighter out of the box (I have a wide foot) but they break in MUCH faster than the OG. The Comp sits much lower on my achilles. I fit perfectly into the molded heel cup of the OG, and the Comp heel feels just a bit shallow for me, but it still works well.

I've been climbing in the Theory as well. Those are mega wow.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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