Earl Wiggins

I wish I could have met Earl. I've always felt a certain affinity with him, since we share a diagnosis and a love of squeezes.

Can someone point me further reading about his life? I've read some great stories in the Robbie guidebook and "Games Climbers Play," seen the Luxury Liner documentary, and talked to Pat Ament and Jim Newberry a couple times.

If any of his friends would like to share some stories, I'm all ears. Post up here or shoot me a PM for a phone call. Thanks.

https://rockandice.com/snowball/on-the-earl-the-earl-wiggins-profile/

FrankPS wrote: https://rockandice.com/snowball/on-the-earl-the-earl-wiggins-profile/

Thanks. Impressive that the FFA of the OG Cruise went in six hours. And I was feeling pretty good about my 8.5 hour time on Scenic a couple days ago ... Especially impressive that he had only rehearsed the Scenic pitches once before soloing them. A couple of those fingerlocks on the 60m p3 are pretty insecure. Not to mention the second traverse; I still get gripped on that thing.

i was at turkey rocks in the early 90's on a snowy november day.  my partner and i struggled up drumstick direct.  in the time we did 1 pitch jimmy and earl soloed like a hundred fucking pitches around us. they were just laughing and having a good time.  they were super nice and friendly.

earl was an absolute badass. truly one of the greatest of the lesser known climbers.  whenever i get on a wiggins route i am aware that an epic may take place...

slim wrote:
earl was an absolute badass. truly one of the greatest of the lesser known climbers.  whenever i get on a wiggins route i am aware that an epic may take place...

I heartily concur. You know that Wiggins chimney at the entrance to the cave route at Battle of the Bulge? I climbed that and went through the chockstone instead of pulling around the outside. I had to take off my helmet and glasses, and pick which direction my nose was facing! I almost had to ditch the harness and trail the rope off my ankle, too. 

  He was definitely bad ass but also really nice. I camped next to Earl and his girlfriend Katey Cassidy in the cottonwoods across from Battle of the Bulge buttress many times back in the day. Always laid back and sociable around the fire. He'd recommend climbs to us and we'd go looking for the handcracks that he had done and only find 4" overhanging slots. His hands were huge. His heart too.

In the original summit register on Castleton there was a note in there from Earl about having sex on the summit with an earlier girlfriend. It was hilarious in it's description.

LOTS of quality stories about Earl on the Supertopo archive:

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Asupertopo.com+%22earl+wiggins%22

Also, check out the book, "Canyon Country Climbs" by Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy.

"A rope, a rack and the shirt on your back" EW and JD 
Best climbing advice I ever got...

My partner and I were starting up Dream of Wild Turkeys as Earl and Katy were starting up the recently completed Prince of Darkness. They were using a 300-foot 9mm half rope, two dozen draws, and were linking pitches. That strategy was new to me. This was in March 1987. They were ahead of their time. 

I met Earl when he was in high school. Earl was no brag. unassuming and a great guy. Knew exactly what he could do and did it.

F r i t z wrote:

Thanks. Impressive that the FFA of the OG Cruise went in six hours. And I was feeling pretty good about my 8.5 hour time on Scenic a couple days ago ... Especially impressive that he had only rehearsed the Scenic pitches once before soloing them. A couple of those fingerlocks on the 60m p3 are pretty insecure. Not to mention the second traverse; I still get gripped on that thing.

I'd always heard it that he onsight soloed the Scenic Cruise (obviously he would have repeated the Cruise pitches). I've sadly misplaced my copy of Climb! (2003 Achey edition), either that or my brother stole it, but I seem to remember something about how Ed Webster talked the climb up to him as the perfect climb and Wiggins "likely muttering an oath" as he passed those slimmer than expected locks you mentioned. If you haven't got your hands on a copy of Climb! yet there's a lot of awesome Wiggins stories in there. I remember a good one about him whipping on the runout pitch of Goss-Logan and chortling about how they were finally having fun.

Thanks for starting this thread, he's definitely one of my heroes too even though we share neither a diagnosis nor love of squeezes ;) 

George Bracksieck wrote: My partner and I were starting up Dream of Wild Turkeys as Earl and Katy were starting up the recently completed Prince of Darkness. They were using a 300-foot 9mm half rope, two dozen draws, and were linking pitches. That strategy was new to me. This was in March 1987. They were ahead of their time. 

Wow, and twenty-eight years later, you bought a 300’ 9.2mm Beal Joker from me! They were definitely way ahead of the time. Hope you’re doing well in dgo, George. I enjoyed roping up with you at East A and hearing your stories. Sometimes I feel like I was born in the wrong generation of climbers.

if i remember correctly earl was way runout on some pitch in the black and had a big block come loose in his arms. he knew he couldn't push it back in, and he knew if it fell out it would cream his belayer. so, he grabbed it and launched outward with it as hard as he could. the block flew cleanly over his belayer as he helicoptered through space and time.

sometimes when i have insomnia i think about this, and it doesn't really help me get back to sleep....

F r i t z wrote:

Wow, and twenty-eight years later, you bought a 300’ 9.2mm Beal Joker from me! They were definitely way ahead of the time. Hope you’re doing well in dgo, George. I enjoyed roping up with you at East A and hearing your stories. Sometimes I feel like I was born in the wrong generation of climbers.

Earl was a trailblazer, whereas I’ve often been slow to catch on. Thanks for giving me a good deal, providing the opportunity to expand my horizons. 

I enjoyed climbing with you! Btw I have since cleanly followed The Slaves, wearing different shoes to protect my hammer toes. 
You are having fun doing a lot of great climbs. That’s sufficient. To quote Erwin Schroedinger: “The only reality is now.”

Sender’s Game Podcast, Episode 22: The Life and Legacy of Earl Wiggins (feat. Stewart Green)

https://sendersgamepodcast.libsyn.com/website/22-the-life-and-legacy-of-earl-wiggins-feat-stewart-green

I got around to scanning some old slides. Here's Earl and Katy on PoD. I think their rope was an 8.5 or maybe thinner. I had forgotten we had ropes that thin, then. It was definitely what is now officially called a "half rope."

i enjoyed your podcast fritz.  had to chalk up a few times so i could keep a grip on my mouse!

slim wrote: i enjoyed your podcast fritz.  had to chalk up a few times so i could keep a grip on my mouse!

Thanks, man! This was a bucket list interview for me.

Next week on SGP: #23 “Better Living Through Chemistry” (feat. Jonathan Siegrist)

Earl Wiggins was my uncle, I am the daughter of Scott Wiggins his brother. I’ve been lately looking more into his life story and these posts and reply’s are really cool to see! 

F r i t z wrote: I wish I could have met Earl. I've always felt a certain affinity with him, since we share a diagnosis and a love of squeezes.

Can someone point me further reading about his life? I've read some great stories in the Robbie guidebook and "Games Climbers Play," seen the Luxury Liner documentary, and talked to Pat Ament and Jim Newberry a couple times.

If any of his friends would like to share some stories, I'm all ears. Post up here or shoot me a PM for a phone call. Thanks.

I am his niece and he was a really cool guy from what I remember. I didn’t know him for long, but I really admire him! 

Cayce

I'm an old friend of Linda Wiggins (Earl's sister) , we haven't talked in years.

If you happen to speak with her, let her know Mario says Hello.