Rappel Devices

Looking into rappel devices. Any recommendations? I’ve looked at the mega jul and the pirana, is there anything else out there for a comparable price?

Depends what you're trying to repel. Rodents? Snakes? Evil spirits? Women with loose morals?

Patchouli oil.

NRA and MAGA stickers repel me

Hunter M wrote: Looking into repel devices. Any recommendations? I’ve looked at the mega jul and the pirana, is there anything else out there for a comparable price?

I don't think you can belay off of the Piran"h"a.  I suspect this would be great for caving.

For climbing, Mega Jul, Mammut Smart, ATC, and ATC Guide are all good devices.  Note, you can "repel" off of a GriGri but its only a single strand and has some limitations.

I don't think a single piranha will repel much. You need at least a small school of piranhas, and then you have to be okay with the death of the thing you're repelling. There's also significant risk dealing with flesh-eating fish.

The Juul wil probably work to repel humans--most people don't like vapers. You'd need a particularly pungent vape juice to repel other species, and remember that in order for the repulsive effects of vaping to work you actually have to vape. I'd say this method also has major downsides, but it's probably better than the piranha.

EDIT: Serious answer: the mega jul is frankly terrible for rappelling. The pirana is probably better--I haven't specifically used that device but I've used similar devices. That said, I doubt your use case requires such a large, heavy, expensive device--the pirana is intended for canyoneering situations with a wide variety of friction conditions. 95% of rappelling situations would be handled better by an ATC XP, which is a little over half the weight, and less than half the price.

Just as a friendly contextualization: "I need a rappel device for climbing, how about a Mega Jul or PIRANA" is sort of like "I need a car for commuting, how about a Lamborghini or a dirtbike"

-1/10

what do you want out of a rap device?

the mega jul is a *great* device for the right person in the right scenario.  Mostly alpine or whenever you want a really light device that can do it all (rap, assisted brake, guide mode) but it absolutely sucks in locking rap mode, I use mine turned around in "standard tuber mode" with a prussic so as a rap device it is no better than an ATC and maybe worse as it can't do some of the ascending tricks for self rescue that a atc guide can do.  When i'm cragging I belay with a grigri, but I love my mega jul for alpine or weight savings on multipitch.

Are you only rappelling?  whats the application, if you're talking caving for example you will likely wear out a standard atc very fast and may need a "rack" or a "stop" (I think those are the right names I don't cave)

If you are just rapping of cliffs and not climbing then any ATC and prussic are fine, don't overthink it, learn the basics and how to use standard stuff before getting fancy.

If you are climbing the part where you belay with the device or use it in guide mode should be the main concern, not the rappelling (imo mega jul is ok in guide mode with ropes 9.6 or less, but has more friction than a BD ATC guide for example)

The only thing I would not buy for rappelling is an "8" that's some old school right there.

We'd need more information to determine the best tool for your application.

A Petzl Pirana is designed mostly (primarily) for canyoneering with wet ropes and rappelling in running water.  Not sure most climbers would consider using one.

What "rappel" scenario do you have in mind?

Eggs and onions for breakfast should do the trick.  No one will be on a climb down wind of you.

I think he means to repel off one of these???
​Jive Ass Anchors​​​

Consuming a bunch of pickled eggs after a long night of beer drinking can do the trick too...

Brian in SLC wrote: We'd need more information to determine the best tool for your application.

A Petzl Pirana is designed mostly (primarily) for canyoneering with wet ropes and rappelling in running water.  Not sure most climbers would consider using one.

What "rappel" scenario do you have in mind?

Considering mostly canyoneering. Although a “do it all” device would be preferred

Hunter M wrote: Looking into rappel devices. Any recommendations? I’ve looked at the mega jul and the pirana, is there anything else out there for a comparable price?

Let me be the first to give you a serious answer

There are no other devices, besides the two you mentioned. If you did an "Internet search," there's an outside chance you might find something else. This, however, would require painstaking and laborious work. Or. you could ask your climbing partners.

I get the impression you want the easy route. 

+ 1 for reverso + prussik
Edit: For canyons the Petzl Pirana  is indeed the best device but if you re using proper canyonning rappel techniques you will actually need 2 Petzl Pirana 

FrankPS wrote:

Let me be the first to give you a serious answer

There are no other devices, besides the two you mentioned. If you did an "Internet search," there's an outside chance you might find something else. This, however, would require painstaking and laborious work. Or. you could ask your climbing partners.

I get the impression you want the easy route. 

Hrumpf! Hrumpf!

In fact the easiest way to be helpful in this regard is to have nothing to post.

Necessity (ie no responses) breeds an individual to use google search is what I find.

Instead I will weigh in with a 3rd HRUMPF!

:)

Hunter M wrote:

Considering mostly canyoneering. Although a “do it all” device would be preferred

For canyoneering, I like to use the Kong Oka.  However, there are lots of other canyon-specific devices such as the sqwurel, critr, and ATS.  In the end, it mostly comes down to preference.  

Hunter M wrote:

Considering mostly canyoneering. Although a “do it all” device would be preferred

I'd keep them separate.  Nice for a backup for dry canyons to have an ATC type device that also works well for belaying, slipping the rope, etc.

Let's see what the emperor has for sale:

​https://www.canyoneeringusa.com/store/?category=Rappel+Devices​​​

I think the "cool kids" who are canyoneering like the critter and the squirrel.  I've used them all...probably don't have a super strong preference except for fast moving water I prefer the Sterling ATS.  I don't like the Pirana as much because I tend to switch hands a bunch and the pirana isn't symmetrical.  Also harder to change the wear by flipping it around if you're one hand dominant.  The squirrel (or however the gnome likes to spell it) is probably the niftiest device for changing the friction on a rappel outside of a rappel rack that cavers use.

Let's see what the cool kids across the puddle are selling (team orange for sure):

​https://www.canyonzone.com/c-2023216/pirana-sort-devices/​​​

Yeah, that's a lot to sort through.  They seem to dig the 'Merican stuff though.  Makes them cooler even.  Ha ha.

My guess is you're also new to rappelling?  My advice would be to try a bunch of different types and decide which suits your style best.

FrankPS wrote:

Let me be the first to give you a serious answer

Sometimes I give real answers too...

Unfortunately you’ve tapped into some the “personalities” on MP by misspelling rappel. The best device for rapping in a canyon won’t be the same one used on a crag or in the mountains or on ice. To ask the question of climbers who mostly use that device for belaying is one of the reasons you’re getting all the sarcasm. Even when you pin down exactly what you’re going to use it for, you’re still going to get different opinions. So many options out there- single rope, double rope, fat, skinny, auto braking, assisted braking, guide mode features etc. Assuming you are new to the sport, the best advice is get with an instructor or mentor and have them show you why the choice is so activity dependent. Then you will be able to make a better choice.